Anyone got a sound proofing solution to stop the rattles and shakes you can hear outside with speakers / sub is on?
Replacing the speakers next week, what you think? Components in the front, Coaxial\'s in the rear and 12" Sub built into the boot floor and covered by speaker mesh.
Was looking on a budget just for sound quality so didn’t know whether to just get a 300RMS Amp to run the sub iv got and run all 4 speakers off the 50W x 4 Kenwood headunit?...
...or get a bigger amp and run both the front components and the sub of the one 2channel amp and leave just the rears to the headunit? See the sub I have is a 300RMS sub so thought its not good to under power it.
Also want to sort as many rattles and shakes as I can at the same time, what solutions are there apart from the expensive sound deadening foil for in the doors/boot/number plate (which I\'m really not convinced with anyway). Loft insulation??? Ha
Any pics of peoples builds?
cant help with the rattles as theres so many clips that vibrate easily but whats ur budget for ur setup?
infinity kappa components for 100ukp up front are very gd but at over 100 watts they are best with an amp.
if you want to change your sub then i\'d recommend the square kicker L7 subs.
for a good sound i think about 600ukp in total would be the cheapest i\'d spend.
google "car audio security" they do good stuff at very competitive price.
Well was looking at spending
£100 upfront, £100 on the rears and not sure about the Amp.
The 12" sub i have was about £150 last year and £130 headunit already have, plus the build is getting done by my mate for free who\'s done loads of them.
Just going sink the sub where the spare wheel is and raise the boot floor to cover it, then cover all the MDF in black leather and remove the parcel shelf so is only the sub cone showing. Quiet simple in my head!!!
Just dont know how to go about setting up the amp/speakers?
has no one put anything in the door liners to stop rattles? Does the usual loud rattle come from the reg plate on these when music is playing??
My advice would be to spend a greater proportion of your money on the speakers up front as they are the ones that matter in terms of hearing your mids and tops..... With a big 12" sub in the back, the sound from the rear speakers will be drowned out to an extent.
I recently installed diamond audio hex S500a components in the front, alpine coxials in the rear and 10" diamond audio sub. I run the components off a 500W amp, the coxials off the head unit and the sub off a separate 700W amp.... sounds pretty good, but will be even better once the new speakers have run in:)
if u spending £100 on front and £100 on rears then u best amping both as speakers at that price will be over 100 watts (ur headunit is prob 45 watts) which wont make the most out of ur speakers.
if u want quality on a budget then spend at least £200 on a 4 channel amp, decent components front. then forget about rear.
one channel per front speaker then bridge the 3 and 4 channel for the sub.
as for rattels.. they can come from anywhere.. rattling latches, bumper clips, loose door cards etc..
If im right you will need a "free air" sub in the back if you are simply mounting it in a false floor with no box guv. Building a box for the \'7 boot does take up alot of space. depending on your choice of sub however :)
I decided to sod it in the end and just built a fibre glass enclosure for my sub. It fills the whole boot and is useless for carrying stuff about and most dont like it for weight, but it looks the part ;)
Chris
Well i was planning on removing the spare wheel and building a box in there and raising the floor, the sub only needs 1.25 csq. Going to have a proper look at the weekend.
What are the rear speaker sizes, are they 5 x 7\'s? Are they easy enough to fit yourself or should i get them all sound proofed?
Car audio security have some ok kenwood ones for £30 which i\'m considering, then spend the money upfront where it counts.
To be honest mate rear fill in a two seater car the size of the \'7 is a bit pointless. I just removed the rears and concentrated on a sub and decent components up front.
I then added some rears in my boot build, but this was purely for shows when I have the boot open and wanted to hear the full range from outside the car!
Chris
I spent ages trying to find the source of a really annoying high-pitched rattle. Turned out it was the rear seat belt buckle that always managed to retract itself to rest against the speaker grille! Doh!
TBH, if your cars anything like mine it\'ll be a cacophony of groans, rattles and squeaks anyway. I just gave up trying to find and cure them in the end and just got rid of some of the most irritating ones. It was either that or double the weight of the car with Dynamat!
My only real rattle is the rear hatch catch, I found some instructions on how to tighten that up I\'ll see if I can dig them out.
Forget the rears, all they\'ll do is making the setup harder to sort out so you don\'t get any funny imaging effects.
if the rattles are that bad then turn up the volume. if that dont work then drop the sub so no low freq to make things rattle lol
ha yeah but i want the sub for low end freqs. sound quality etc. Turning it up sounds a good remedy!
Ahh a guide to tightening rattles would be spot on if you dont mind digging that out!
the only real way of getting rid of rattles is to turn up ur tunes n using your good ear to listen out for rattles and holding parts down to see where they come from.
then either tighten screws, remove plastics or wedge things inbetween to stop the rattling bits.
pain in the butt job but will be good once its all done.
so do you know wot setup u gonna go for..?
Quote from: grant;524041My only real rattle is the rear hatch catch, I found some instructions on how to tighten that up I\'ll see if I can dig them out.
Wouldn\'t mind a link to that myself, thanks.
Yeah i have the setup sorted now.
12" sub in the rear, 400RMS Amp is gonna go where the spare wheel currently is. Have bought Rainbow components at a daft price for upfront and just replaced the banger jap 5x7\'s with some £50 alpines just for rear fill to run off headunit.
Amp is a 4 channel Hertz amp so will run components off 2 channels and bridge the sub on the other 2!! Massive power but should get great quality!!!
need to work out the easiest place to feed the amp power lead from the battery, been told there is somewhere next to the ABS in passnger footwell but not really sure what im looking for!!
Have an old sub box for the sub for time being but once its all installed am gonna use it as the base for a build and cover the whole boot floor in black leather so looks smart!!
Anyone else done this? Pics or ideas on what shape to go for rather than just a boxey thing in the back of the boot?
sounds gd.. rainbows r nice..
dunt forget to run in ur speakers 1st b4 u crank up the volume.
For running the power feed have a look at the back of the engine bay near the passenger side wheel arch liner (im running without liners so im not sure if you have to peal them back). You\'ll find a large grommet that leads through into the passenger side of the car :)
Chris
Nice one thanks, sounds like a 10mintue job so i\'ll have a check tonight.
p.s. are the liners difficult to remove or just undo the ties n pull them off? My wheel keeps rubbing the liner where the tie isent very tight. Will this detriment the vehicle??
Not sure how to remove the arch liners as they have always been off.
Im told its not recomended to run without liners as you expose components to water. Its good for cooling tho and the wheels I run with the RE A archs benefit from no arch liners ;)
Chris
p.s. I lost my alarm siren recently due to water ingress, so check everything is suitably out of the way of the archs!!!
ahh see iv got the RE kit on too, will check before i do anything!