Right after getting the uim off (well mostly) today i have found the double throttle solonoid nipple is snapped off on the outlet side.
I have read of people removing the double throttle so , Whats it for?? is it needed ??.
Can i just remove the hose between the sol and the check valve or do i need to dig deep and remove the sol and repair/replace it ?
any help greatly received.
neil
The double throttle is intended to limit boost when the engine is cold. If you\'re good and can control your right foot until the engine has warmed up, then you are fine. Without the solenoid, the throttle plates are open automatically.
Then you can go further and remove the throttle plates. Many of us have. Myself included.
i snappem my one too whils doing my vaccum job, like nikp said if u r a good boy and can control urself untill the engine is fully warmed up then just do what they say here:
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/double_throttle.htm
i did :] oh and if i was u i wouldnt bother capping it off just get it to a welder and blank this hole off it costs 10 quid.
Ok ive removed the double throttle control system and all rats nest hoses are in good order. while i was there i checked the pre-control sol and the wastegate sol electrical connectors were the correct way round as this apparrently causes low boost on secondry but all was correct.
Ive tiewrapped just about every hose i can see and also replaced all the intake and ic hoses.
at wot in neutral i get 4-5 psi at around 6krpm
everything seems to be working as it should but it still drops off boost after 5.5krpm.
All that work for sod all, Absolutely gutted.:reallymad
Looks like ill try ht leads next when i have some money
That\'s crap bud, did you check the solenoids themselves? If one of the solenoids is sticking that may causing your boost loss. And did you get the y-pipe coupler changed? Suprised that did not fix it, but seeing as it didn\'t I still think it may be the solenoids causing your probs. If you like (and can be bothered to remove them) I can check the solenoids for you, it\'s fairly easy to do and is really quick, I can figure out how much pressure each one can take in about 5 mins so for all of them its about 1/2 hour in total. I\'ll need to charge up my acid battery to do it so give me 2 days notice and then i\'ll be set.
You shouldn\'t get much boost in neutral though! There\'s no load for the engine, and therefore it won\'t generate any pressure. You need to be moving for there to be any boost generated.
Nik i realise that mate but reading through autosportrace tech and robinette etc
the no load test will tell whether the sequential system is working as it should and should produce 4 psi offload.
Rob Getting the whole solonoid rack off looks an absolute nightmare no way of testing them in situ?.
Yup changed the y pipe coupler for a perfect one and although i still have the same problem the primary boost is a lot more solid as i was getting a little creep before hand. also changed all the check valves for new vitton ones.
I agree tho it is looking like a sol. thought HT leads but it doesnt feel like ignition break-up either. was talking to the guys at lindop today and he suggested the canister underneath the car which circulates the exhaust gasses to the second tubby??
Gonna jack her up tommorrow and have a eyeball.
Honestly mate after all that im truly WOUNDED .
Quote from: neil_jdmr;522404Nik i realise that mate but reading through autosportrace tech and robinette etc
the no load test will tell whether the sequential system is working as it should and should produce 4 psi offload.
Hairy muff!
You dont have to remove the entire rack, just the solenoids themselves, make sure you mark up the pipes before you remove them, or I could come over, actually that would be alot easier as we could remove one solenoid at a time and not loose track of what goes where.
That sounds cool mate,
Working next couple of weeks non-stop so ill keep in touch on when to get cracking.
Had a long chat with pip last night and have give me a top secret tip to try first so as soon as iget chance ill try that too:cool.
was it "hit it with a hammer?" lol
Stick a rag in the tank,:evillaugh light it and ruuuuunnnnnn
Hi Neil,
Have you gotten any further with your boost probs?
Ive got a few probs myself and reading your elimination process is helpful, just wondering if there is light at the end of the tunnel?
Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris,
Sadly i still have the exact same problem, although through all the parts ive changed i have seen the boost pattern changing sometimes better sometimes worse.
But the original problem still remains, 5.5k boost drops back 25% taking power and torque with it.
Off to pips in about 3 weeks with a pfc so im hoping he can sort it as i dont know what else to change/check.
Anyhoo to answer you question : If there is light at the end of the tunnel i think pip may be holding the torch
Hmm, not good bud, but Pip did sort my last boost prob so im sure all will turn out fine.
Ive got my own boost prob. Only 0.5bar on the primary turbo and nothing on the 2nd! Im starting to gather parts before I start the replacement process. Just ordered the vitton check valves and now to buy solenoids. Any ideas where from guv?
Chris
Chris, check that your solenoids are faulty before you get new ones bud, you may find that only 1 is faulty and thats gonna save you a fair few quid
Next daft question coming up...how do I check the solenoids? Multi-meter?
Suppose this is going to take a couple of weekends. One to remove the UIM, check stuff and order any bits, the next to replace any faulty parts.
Chris
I did a write up on how to check them bud, http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44377, i\'ve got all the bits and the correct hose now so if you like I can give you a hand bud.
Cheers for the link and the offer of help bud.
I\'ll await the arrival of the check valves and will pinch my folks garage for a weekend or two, then give you a hola if your free :)
Chris
by all means bud, give me a shout