I finally have a fmic installed on my fc along with a lip spoiler. (will upload pics later when i get home home)
looks much better now.
thanks to ben for spending over 12Hrs solid working on my car.
have also taken the air pump out and the white can under the passenger headlight.
not all the tubes are blocked off. (i think the one from air pump to exhaust is still open. does this make much difference? (apart form the sound of the exhaust sounding bit stranger)
Does anyone kno if you change from stock IC to FMIC, does the idle of the car have to be altered due to the higher capacity the FMIC can take?
My ECU is a chiped N380 ecu but on it it sais EGI.
I thought EGi was for non turbo yet on the FAQ sticky it sais the N380 ecu is for turbo.
Last thing. does anyones BAC NOT have a screw in it to alter the idle speed?
both mine n bens fc are S5 yet there is quite alot of difference between the 2 engins! how strange. be normal if it was S4 and S5 engines but both are S5 engines.
comments pls.
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Firstly well done for finding a turbo II stock spitter :D I found one for mine, and then unscrewed little bits of the original splitter that was still attached to the car when I got it lol.
What are your plans for brake cooling? those FMIC pipes looks like it blocks the flow.
On another point.....THAT FMIC LOOKS FAB :D
i pref profs lower lip spoiler but as this stock one was so cheap ( n with the centre part of my front bumper cut) it looks better with it on.
thinkin on getting a front splitter DTM style with the crome ties.
brake cooling.. i dont need brakes lol
i had the front fogs on b4 which blocked the cooling ducts so the pipes r doing the same thing as the fogs were so same cooling as b4 lol
ps thanks for the comment =)
Looking good :cheers
The brake cooling issue is more of a problem if you\'re on the stock alloys, if you\'ve an \'open\' style of alloy the brakes will get some cooling, but it\'s a good point for a track car.
On the ECU\'s - they all say \'EGI\' - I think Brett actually worked out what that stood for once, it\'s only by the number on it that you can tell what car it was for - S4/S5 and whether Jap, US, Canadian or European - as they all had slightly different emissions and control.
As for the intercooler and lag - you may need a bigger turbo now and a different ECU to control it all :Thumbsup!
Hmm a bigger turbo and a different ECU?...shame :D
wanted to take the turbo off bens hands also but im torn between that or getting motorbike!
plus when i get bigger turbo i may as well go for a proper prog ecu etc..
which all cost money which i dont have yet lol
i\'ve not run at full boost yet as still on single pulley. ordering one from wgt tmr and gettin that put in so will try full boost.
but from teh drive home last nite.. it seemed to behave as before.
maybe i\'ll find out real lag once i get the twin alt n full boost it :burnout
Quote from: Prof;521661Looking good :cheers
As for the intercooler and lag - you may need a bigger turbo now and a different ECU to control it all :Thumbsup!
so did fitting come with the price of the FMIC ?? :D
maybe i should start a thread with my very slow "project" lol
Quote from: grinder;521710so did fitting come with the price of the FMIC ?? :D
to ans your question... nope.
No problem Liam,
Photos look good, thanks for being so patient! It became a mother of a job.
I can see you are already getting the modding bug! Its a slippery slope my friend..
From the other thread I\'d agree with the Power FC being the preferred choice, it controls everything the stock ECU does and lots more. The Microtech is an excellent ECU, very reliable, solid and simple, but the downside of its easy programmability is that it doesnt have all the little features.
(also, what people mentioned about it being possible to gain 40hp just from a remap on the stock car is true, you\'d be suprised how conservatively the manufacturers tune turbo cars! Now also bear in mind that your car has a 3 inch exhaust, FMIC and larger intake..)
i bet you would see a lot more than 40 with an aftermarket ecu
even just adding a FCD , exhaust and filter will prob see you get 40 anyways , so add an ECU into that calc and.......MMMMMMMMMMMMmmmm more power :D :D :D
I like that logic. I\'m running around 280 bhp if thats the case.
Racing beat\'s exhaust system, ie turbo back system had a car dynoed before and after from a stock system to their system, the difference was an increase in power of 57bhp just by swapping the exhaust :)
wow.. i didnt realise ecu can make a BIG difference!!
lets hope i can find an apexi pfc PDQ!!
that should keep me happy for a day or 2..
tho i was looking through speedline imports threads n they got a nice tasty twin turbo T05 setup up for grabs!:InLove
but i think before heading for that i\'ll follow the fc3spro bible n get uprated fuel pump, injectors, hard pipe for intake n get rid of the afm.. few other little things then last get engine ported (thinking large street port maybe) then twin turbo\'s =p...
im still hunting down a twin alt pulley as rxmotors n wgt nvr seem to reply emails as i cant pop to see them. :2Mad
I got my pulley off eBay - seems to be fine - came from a guy in the US who not only does dual alt pulley, but a dual pulley for use with FD alternator as well. Was about £30 shipped - so cheaper than Atkins and Mazdatrix who sell for $50 but then there shipping is about the same :(
i remember you saying u got your pulley from ebay. i cant find any from ebay unlesss in looking the wrong way lol
if u run your fc on an fd alt, what are the benefits?
do u still have the sellers name on your list?
thanks
Quote from: Prof;522506I got my pulley off eBay - seems to be fine - came from a guy in the US who not only does dual alt pulley, but a dual pulley for use with FD alternator as well. Was about £30 shipped - so cheaper than Atkins and Mazdatrix who sell for $50 but then there shipping is about the same :(
Quote from: BBCFC;522583i remember you saying u got your pulley from ebay. i cant find any from ebay unlesss in looking the wrong way lol
if u run your fc on an fd alt, what are the benefits?
do u still have the sellers name on your list?
thanks
It was a user called Banzaitoyota.
Banzai Rotary Toys is his shop - doesn\'t look like he\'s got the FC/FB pulles in at the mo, but he has the FD alternator one in stock:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RX-7-DUAL-BELT-FD-ALT-PULLEY-for-FCInstallation_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33573QQihZ002QQitemZ120290560693
as for the benefits - it\'s a newer unit and runs slightly higher amperage, there is a thread on the 1300cc.com site about fitting one and the hassles he had.
Got mine from Banzai as well but got the blanking plates as well. Just go on the US Ebay, you are sure to find them or do a search for their website.
Here you go http://www.banzai-racing.com/
thanks for the link.
pete, are you running an fd alt also?
doesn\'t look like the have the alt pulley on the site but will email them.
unsure if i want to go with fd alt or fc alt.
maybe fd alt will be better as im running 2 amps for ICE, tho will try to DIY it if i go that route :3Confused
Quote from: pdtaylor18;522732Got mine from Banzai as well but got the blanking plates as well. Just go on the US Ebay, you are sure to find them or do a search for their website.
Here you go http://www.banzai-racing.com/
Just stick with the FC pulley as otherwise you will need to change all the pullies to the flat multi-ribbed type. The two belts are completely different being that the FC is v shaped. I am running/will run the V shaped FC alt pulley and belt.
If you do go down the FD route for alterator then bear in mind your Fuse rating at the main fuse box by the front coil pack. I have had some rated at 80 amps and 100 amps. Not sure why and cant even remember what main fuse it was for, i will check for you.
I found this one when looking for similar if it helps?
http://www.rotaryinnovation.com/new_products1.htm
i came across that site before but seemed bit questionable.
i\'ve ordered it now along with block off plates from the site pete gave me.
Quote from: TeamTotalWankel;522834I found this one when looking for similar if it helps?
http://www.rotaryinnovation.com/new_products1.htm
has anyone one else here fitted a fmic to their TII?
i think the boost is slightly higher now (but without a boost gauge im not entirely sure, can only judge from teh stock gauge) but i kno that the BOV is not as loud as prior to fitting the fmic.
does anyone know why? or is it due to the fact that there is less pressure due to the higher volume of air that the fmic can take?
i think my cold start has gone ka-put as when i start the engine i have to step on the gas to get the engine fully running else it goes ka-put.
the idle also varies quite a lot, either too much or too little :(
on a good note the short shift is really nice to use, bit clunky at times n hard to get into gear but i think thats due to my clutch, or lack of clutch :rollin
Hi Liam,
I had the same experience with the BOV being quieter after fitting the FMIC, and yes, I believe it is due to the slower rate that the larger volume of air held in the IC + piping expands.
With the idle and cold start issues, it really is best to try get a standalone ecu or at least a piggyback (greddy emanage being a good value choice).
As you know, the stock ecu (or even remapped/knightsport/etc ecu) has some flexibility, but changing the airflow characteristics and density (enhanced charge cooling through a larger IC = denser air), especially after the airflow meter, has adverse effects. They can be potentially engine damaging (Which is why I said to not push it too hard yet).
You might be able to do a few fixes to get the car running nearly as normal on the stock ecu (as I had to previously), but these really are just a band aid, stealing hp and potentially endangering your engine! a few hundred pound on engine management is probably the best money you\'ll spend on your car. Its also an investment, as it can be adjusted to match the mods you intend to do on your car, aswell as doing a pretty good job of retaining its value should you decide to sell it later on. (aswell as unleashing hp you never knew you had -without changing anything else!)
And you will learn the art of the heel-and-toe double-declutch downshift with the shoft shift kit :). -And then you will wonder how you ever coped changing down so slowly before.
Quote from: pdtaylor18;522811Just stick with the FC pulley as otherwise you will need to change all the pullies to the flat multi-ribbed type. The two belts are completely different being that the FC is v shaped. I am running/will run the V shaped FC alt pulley and belt.
If you do go down the FD route for alterator then bear in mind your Fuse rating at the main fuse box by the front coil pack. I have had some rated at 80 amps and 100 amps. Not sure why and cant even remember what main fuse it was for, i will check for you.
Pete - there is a pulley kit for use with the V belts and an FD alternator - but the alternator itself is a \'snug\' fit apparently
i love the short shift!! thought hard to get in some gears at times (think more to do with either clutch or gearbox) i tried to double declutch the other day but feels really weird n not used to it... yet!!
bit more time n will be 2nd nature.
heel n toe i can do ok though.
ideally i wanna get an apexi pfc but not sure if i can souce one any time soon. i know you can use a fd PFC in an FC with the use of a harness. have anyone tried this combo?
im assuming that if you have a PFC or similar then you dont need a AFC?
think tuning wise im thinking if i cant find a PFC then go for bigger turbo with uprated fuel pump and using an AFC and AVC-R to tune. would that be any good?
(Im too impatient to wait n find a PFC!! lol)
\'MORE POWER MORE POWER\' i say
oh finally (i know this is loong but its all about learning) but other than removing the air pump and ACV what other crap is not need in the engine bay and can be taken out?
Quote from: BBCFC;524530think tuning wise im thinking if i cant find a PFC then go for bigger turbo with uprated fuel pump and using an AFC and AVC-R to tune. would that be any good?
(Im too impatient to wait n find a PFC!! lol)
\'MORE POWER MORE POWER\' i say
oh finally (i know this is loong but its all about learning) but other than removing the air pump and ACV what other crap is not need in the engine bay and can be taken out?
You\'d probably get away with AFC / AVC-R, but it\'s less than ideal - be patient and get a PFC - or you might end up in my club ;) :Nono!
You should have had a good hard look at Furbs engine bay at the RS5. His is about as simplicistic as you can really hope for. I have taken some close up pics, when i can i\'ll send them to you. If you look at my project thread then that too has almost gone similar routes but i have kept the rats nest as a just in case. However I may well change my mind and get rid of it completely. If you are running decat then get rid of the airpump and associated crap that goes with of it. I think you need to be very careful with what you do, do the research and get to know the engine, what all the bits do and when and truely understand how they all relate to one another. When you understand then you will know what you can do and what you cant do. Its all been tried and tested so many time and the pitfulls are there in very big bold stories of rebuilds and blown engines etc. Research and not wasting money is the whole key. You need to map out how far you want to go and how much your engine will reliably take, its not a fresh engine rebuild so you must factor this in at all times.
Quote from: Prof;524536You\'d probably get away with AFC / AVC-R, but it\'s less than ideal - be patient and get a PFC - or you might end up in my club ;) :Nono!
-2nded. An Apexi AFC is just another band-aid solution, had one fitted to my car originally (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQs76AwDd4Y) and its full adjustment range made hardly any difference. I think it\'s aimed more at N/a, Honda, etc owners who want to get the most out of their exhaust, induction kit and maybe mild cams setups.
I wouldn\'t trust them on something as big as a larger turbo, probably wouldn\'t even trust them on the stock turbo running 12psi.
Unfortunately its false economy to think that little add-ons like this will save money if you plan larger upgrades later. Really a proper standalone or full featured piggyback is the way to go, It\'ll improve your power, driveability, reliabilty, fuel economy and will never stop being useful when you want bigger power later.
If price is the problem you can get a solution like this;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/greddy-emanage-blue_W0QQitemZ280256513477QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280256513477&_trkparms=72%3A636%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Which isnt much more expensive than an AFC, and not a great deal more work to fit. (Dave uses an Emanage Ultimate)
Of course the attraction of the Power FC is it\'s Plug n Play ability.
Quote from: BenLewisMav;524694-2nded. An Apexi AFC is just another band-aid solution, had one fitted to my car originally (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQs76AwDd4Y) and its full adjustment range made hardly any difference. I think it\'s aimed more at N/a, Honda, etc owners who want to get the most out of their exhaust, induction kit and maybe mild cams setups.
I wouldn\'t trust them on something as big as a larger turbo, probably wouldn\'t even trust them on the stock turbo running 12psi.
Unfortunately its false economy to think that little add-ons like this will save money if you plan larger upgrades later. Really a proper standalone or full featured piggyback is the way to go, It\'ll improve your power, driveability, reliabilty, fuel economy and will never stop being useful when you want bigger power later.
If price is the problem you can get a solution like this;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/greddy-emanage-blue_W0QQitemZ280256513477QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280256513477&_trkparms=72%3A636%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Which isnt much more expensive than an AFC, and not a great deal more work to fit. (Dave uses an Emanage Ultimate)
Of course the attraction of the Power FC is it\'s Plug n Play ability.
I know of people who have successfully used the blue emanage on FC\'s, but the Ultimate has some extra tricks up it\'s sleeve - independant sizing of Primary and Secondary Injectors - add/cut fuel in injector map (no messing with Airflow map), advance/retard timing, and independant control of leading/trailing spark. Also has water and inlet air correction maps, acceleration adjustment maps (injection and ignition) - and there are spare outputs to control additional injectors, relays (for electric fan), WI etc. It\'s almost as capable as a Power FC - but it isn\'t plug and play. Howerver, I\'ve documented everything I\'ve done so far to get the thing to work, and it\'s been in the car 2 weeks, without being mapped and running fine - it was my taking the stock ECU to the limit of RPM/Boost that almost certainly cost me the engine - which is why I wouldn\'t rely on the stock ECU or some band aiding.
Furbs mate reckons he was running close to 350bhp on a stock ECU ? been running that for a long time and never missed a beat yet, he drives hard too. Is there a limit on the stock ECU as long as you have the boost controller, FCD etc. Be interesting to see some dyno results, they run very rich anyway.
I am going down the HKS route as a piggy back but with GCC. I can also get a chip for this to allow for a T04 and bigger injectors. maybe a cheaper alternative but better than stock with fairly good mods.
fantastic read.
think i will finally listen to what ben has been saying since day one n get standalone ecu:Thumbs-up
now my contract has ended i can spend more time researching into the engine. finally got some block off plates from banzai racing in the us and the twin alt pulley should arrive some time nxt week.
the other bit i\'ll mod now is walbro fuel pump to allow for the fmic mod.
anyone got ideas for price of walbro pump?
i saw for 80ukp from drift works.fitting the blanking plates n removing the air valve thingie should keep me occupied for a while plus fitting the pulley.
not sure if i have mentioned b4 but plan for my fc is.. in some form of order-
remove crap from engine bay as above
walbro fuel pump
exedy clutch fitted
Low resistant HT leads
apexi pfc
get rid of the afm on the induction
bigger rad
bigger turbo (maybe twin setup like speedline imports ad)
larger injectors
mid / large street ported engine (tho will do this much later on unless someone out there wanna take me on as an apprentice foc n help me get this done :D)
think thats roughly it for now i can think of. would like about 400bhp +-30bhp:3gears-rh:3gears-rh:3gears-rh
Quote from: Prof;524536You\'d probably get away with AFC / AVC-R, but it\'s less than ideal - be patient and get a PFC - or you might end up in my club ;) :Nono!
when did u start ur club? i didnt realise u\'d blown ur engine.
finally.. it has arrived.. got the twin alt pulley from the webite mentioned earlier.. thin it was on this link. and also the blanking plates.
so gonna go try take out the air flow thingie.
tho realised that i still got a cat lol. but not for long i hope.
i read in some threads that you need an impact gun to take off the bolf ot the alt pulley.. is that true or can some monkey power undo it.?
gonna giv it a go now. gingers cross all goes well lol
i had a look at sadgoths enginebay n that was very simplistic.. nice.. all that space!!
the sotck rad n fan shroud takes up so much space!
nice to see other ppls fc to get inspiration from =)
Quote from: pdtaylor18;524692You should have had a good hard look at Furbs engine bay at the RS5. His is about as simplicistic as you can really hope for. I have taken some close up pics, when i can i\'ll send them to you. If you look at my project thread then that too has almost gone similar routes but i have kept the rats nest as a just in case. However I may well change my mind and get rid of it completely. If you are running decat then get rid of the airpump and associated crap that goes with of it. I think you need to be very careful with what you do, do the research and get to know the engine, what all the bits do and when and truely understand how they all relate to one another. When you understand then you will know what you can do and what you cant do. Its all been tried and tested so many time and the pitfulls are there in very big bold stories of rebuilds and blown engines etc. Research and not wasting money is the whole key. You need to map out how far you want to go and how much your engine will reliably take, its not a fresh engine rebuild so you must factor this in at all times.