Hi..
I\'m upgrading my rex @ the moment, and was wondering how much power I can expect to get out of the engine with this setup:
Standard ports,
apexi twin intake
3" full straight through exhaust
RP Racing fuelpump
Secondary fuelrail kit with 1680cc injectors from KG parts
Greddy style front mount IC
Godspeed radiator
Apexi Power FC
Block off kit, removed double throttle control .
removed airpump
MSD 8,5mm spark plug wires.
BUR9EQP sparkplugs
ported wastegate.
1 bar boost
Innovate LM-1 wideband lamda
Thats all I can remember at the moment..
Anything else I should get???
Thanks.
you running standard twin tubs?
300 at the wheels
Quote from: harris2182;507155you running standard twin tubs?
Not sure what you mean with tubs??
He means are they the standard sequential twin turbo\'s, or are they upgraded i.e. 99-spec twins, or an aftermarket hybrid like knightsports. etc.
With regards to power, depending on how healthy the engine is and who does your mapping expect anything from 280 - 300 rwhp.
Ahh... they\'re still sequential standard twins.
The engine was rebuildt about 15000 km ago... not sure what thats in miles 9500 or so..
agree with blitz, up near 300wheel horse power
300-320 WBHP dependent on dyno at 1 bar. As long as you can keep air temps low enough.
Shaun
I can\'t afford a vented hood at the moment, but I\'m planning on doing the "drift" style thing where you move the back of the hood up a bit, so you get a gap between the back of the hood and the windscreen. hopefully this will let some of the hot air out of the engine bay...
Just sort of finished my dashboard and doors.. they are suede/alcantara thingy...
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I\'m waiting for rotaryarts rotorshaped gaugeholder to finish it off...
mate that looks good! i have just finished doing my dash too!
by the way on the door cars have you cut out where then vent bit is, or is it all just coverd in one part! also whats with the red line?
groovy dash like it
I had to cut it at the middle, along with the armrest/door opener handle thing, and down along the edge of where the door hits the dashboard.
The red line is there to cover up where it was cut, but it turned out a bit more cheezy than I\'d expected, so I\'m going to change it for some sort of black rubber stripe...
very nice dash indeed...
ahh ok mate! what glue did you use to stick it down with?
Quote from: Aikio;507219I can\'t afford a vented hood at the moment, but I\'m planning on doing the "drift" style thing where you move the back of the hood up a bit, so you get a gap between the back of the hood and the windscreen. hopefully this will let some of the hot air out of the engine bay...
This doesn\'t really have that much effect. You have a high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen. This is, I agree, slightly less than a standard saloon due to the decreased rake of the windscreen but non the less it is still an extensive high pressure zone.
This Zone actually contributes towards down force. Unfortunately it is counteracted by the lift generated by both the bonnet and the roof, but is why you see the faster sports cars with a very shallow long screen as this smooths the transition between the bonnet the windscreen and the roof.
As air moves from a high pressure zone to a low pressure zone, and the air under in the engine bay tends to be low pressure, the air wont actually come out very easily by the windscreen. If anything it will want to circulate under the bonnet causing drag.
The best way to remove air from the engine bay is either via the bonnet using NACA ducts or under the car between the chassis and a flat floor then exit at the rear into the dead air.
Quote from: Aikio;507205Ahh... they\'re still sequential standard twins.
The engine was rebuildt about 15000 km ago... not sure what thats in miles 9500 or so..
9322.56 miles. :chat lol.
Seriously though that dash looks fantastic!.... Possibly the nicest job i\'ve seen to date! Major hats off to you if you\'ve done it yourself!
Quote from: AtomicRex;507282This doesn\'t really have that much effect. You have a high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen. This is, I agree, slightly less than a standard saloon due to the decreased rake of the windscreen but non the less it is still an extensive high pressure zone.
This Zone actually contributes towards down force. Unfortunately it is counteracted by the lift generated by both the bonnet and the roof, but is why you see the faster sports cars with a very shallow long screen as this smooths the transition between the bonnet the windscreen and the roof.
As air moves from a high pressure zone to a low pressure zone, and the air under in the engine bay tends to be low pressure, the air wont actually come out very easily by the windscreen. If anything it will want to circulate under the bonnet causing drag.
The best way to remove air from the engine bay is either via the bonnet using NACA ducts or under the car between the chassis and a flat floor then exit at the rear into the dead air.
Ok, Then I\'ll throw away that idea... I\'ll just have to wait and see how the temp goes then...
ENVYD: I just used some contact glue from a car accessories shop.. I was a bit unsure of how it would work out, but it worked great...
Kevin: Thanks. I did it myself with a little bit of help from a friend with the dash and doors...
Looks amazing.
Maz
I have tuned 2 PFC TT-FD\'s here in NZ on dyno dynamics, both had all the bolt ons but not your extra fuel setup. 1st FD made 335whp max tune 1bar. 2nd FD 320whp max tune 1bar. You should be able to make a slight bit more with those bigger injectors. You could if you wanted to probably tune to a good safe street power of around 340-350whp on 1bar & if you trust in your new motors build quality you could reach 360-370whp on around 18psi with hard core AFR tune.
Difference in 99sepc turbos showed up on my girl friends car. Mods are 3" exhaust, PFC & K&N panel filter. Her car made 285whp on 0.8 BAR. Thing is her Exhaust DP is not 3" & so when we increased to 1bar the motor could not push the exsess pressure out & the dyno showed a drop in power. Fliped it back to 0.8 & the power went back up. So next on her list is a 3" DP, FMIC, Alloy rad, & ducted Simota intakes. Then back to the dyno for another tune.
So find yourself a good tuner, a fairly accurate dyno & you will be very happy.
PLease note all cars tuned in the above txt are rebuilt motors with large extended porting, special apex seals & very agressive AFR tunes. I see your motor is stock port so I dont think you will quite reach those higher numbers but you should easily make 340whp.
Keep us posted, I look forward to your results.
If you are worried about intake temp look at installing a water injection kit. That will keep plugs clean, stop detonation & increase power all while droping your intake temp & by keeping the power up even on those hot days your car will feel like you just pulled it out on a cold winter morning. Nice dense air & good power.
Figured I should update this if anyone was interrested... I had some moneyproblems this summer. I paid too much tax last year and was supposed to get about £1200 back, but the government messed up so I had to work a bit to get back my money..
At the moment the engine is 98% finnished... I\'m still waiting on the resistors for the injectors, and some custom fabrication for the fuel preassure gauge.
Hopefully I\'ll be traveling to sweden to get it mapped next week. I\'ll post the results then.
Oh... and the reason it took so long to build/upgrade is that I dont have a garage or anything, so I\'m a bit dependant on the weather... :P
well keep up the good work mate! is the dash done yet?
also mate i forgot to ask! when to started to glue the dash down where did you start on first?
All I\'m missing on the dash is the gaugeholder on the center speaker.
And I\'m not sure where to mount the LM-1..
When I started to glue it I started on the top, where the vents for the front windscreen are..
Well... I\'ve probably blown a waterseal.. so I didn\'t even get it mapped... was on my way to something similar to your MOT and the car started overheating a lot... figured it was either a ****ed thermostat or air in the system, but after plugging the ast and removing the thermostat it still kept overheating, and it suddently got really hard to start when hot.
And when I took out the sparkplugs one of them were wet, and it didn\'t smell/taste like either fuel nor coolant, so I\'m guessing it was a mix of them...
so now I have a project for the winter :P
unlucky mate! sorry to here it!
Hey... figured I\'d update since I\'m finished with the engine.
Ended up with new lapped walls, and the early model 20b housings which have the plug holes at the same place as the t4 sII rotor housing, so we had to be a bit careful with the ignition.
So the mods are the same as before, just different housings..
This was done at 0.86 bar boost:
the first two are wheel hp, second two are flywheel
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