With yesterday being so nice I took my FD out for a spin, I enjoyed a good old boost down a local duel carridgeway, then got into town to pick my wife up from her mothers. This involved about 20 minutes of slow back street speed bump action.
Got back out of town onto same duel carridgeway and thought i\'d scare her abit, put my foot down in second and third and she didnt even bat an eye lid it was that poor. :2Rolleyes
Noticed a few things on PFC, before I got into town and it was boosting well:
Water Temp: 81 degree\'s
Air Temp: 42 degree\'s
after town and poor performance
Water Temp: 86 degree\'s
Air Temp: 62 degree\'s
Car is still on twins, streetported with koyo radiator and standard intercooler.
Was most disappointed to say the least. Thought i\'d left heat soak behind after getting rid of my last mr-2 turbo... lol. :spank
yep, thats the main downside with a smic. Afermarket smic\'s are even worse at heatsoak! You need a divider between rad & smic. Then you need good thought out ducting to the smic. Or you could just go Vmount and live happily ever after
V-mount won\'t solve heatsoak issues :no: as i\'ve found to my dismay.
The air rising from the rad below heats up the IC.
It\'s hard to tell how much the actual inlet charge is affected with the IAT sensor in the stupid stock position though, i really need to relocate mine to the elbow.
Quote from: SiH;504217V-mount won\'t solve heatsoak issues :no: as i\'ve found to my dismay.
The air rising from the rad below heats up the IC.
Thats why you stil need a divider between the IC and rad. Preferably adjustable.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7;504207yep, thats the main downside with a smic. Afermarket smic\'s are even worse at heatsoak! You need a divider between rad & smic. Then you need good thought out ducting to the smic. Or you could just go Vmount and live happily ever after
Will be interesting to see what the one coming from japan performs like, that one has front mount and upright aftermarket rad.
As you said though v-mounts are ok, but only really work with proper ducting.
Just started measuring this on the FC - now I can see what the temps are doing - it\'s quite scary how quickly the temps build in slow traffic, but that being said, even 2 minutes of driving in free flowing traffic at 40 mph will drop 10-15 degrees off the inlet temps (and that\'s on a top mount intercooler).
The pipework heats up fairly quickly from the engine, but cools with the air flowing through it quite readily.
im getting the same problems mate :Grrr
have a read of my thread
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49035
karl
get WI....
that 62 could be 25 in a couple of boosts.
nuff said
Even with a divider, you still get heat soak, i\'ve been playing around with one, but the air still rises up through it :( does help a bit though.
Well the RE:WORX V-Mount works....came off track at Silverstone today after 20 mins of WOT @ 575 bhp and Intake temps were 23 degs Water Temps 80 degs.
ENOUGH SAID.............................:yes
Quote from: SiH;504274Even with a divider, you still get heat soak, i\'ve been playing around with one, but the air still rises up through it :( does help a bit though.
Dont say that! Your making me thinking of going front mount now instead!:3Confused
Surely there must be a way of completley eliminating heat soak into the ic.
lol! with any set up there\'s gojng to be an element of heat soak, unless oyu move one of the heat echangers to another part of the car!
You can reduce it dramatically though, with the likes of fans, ducting, dividers, and WI :)
V-Mounts rule. My V mounted £80 S/H XSP intercooler and new Koyo rad keep my FD running at 85 degrees oil, 80-90 degrees water, and about 5/10 degrees above ambient IAT consistently, it\'s fecking ace :D
Duct your IC correctly.
But WI will help no end!!
In my opinion it\'s not heat soak into the intercooler that\'s a problem (Mine is can be felt to be nice and cool, or boiling hot, depending on whether i\'ve been stuck in traffic or had a nice run).
It\'s the air that the intake has is important. Hence warthogs is nice and cool: he has positioned his intake so that it is fed with unadulterated cool air from the scoot bonnet. Mine sits right behind a nice hot radiator, and therefore gets fed with relatively hot air straight away.
So I have figured I either need to:
1. Create a divider to stop the intake getting hot air from the rad or
2. move the intake to a better position to get cooler air or
3. Provide a cold air feed (Which don\'t look so good, so hoping not to go for that option)
I was thinking of going for option 1 Getting a divider made up to seperate the intake of the turbo from the rad is a good idea
Indeed: I think that\'s the way I\'m going to go. I was thinking of getting creative with it too. Not just a single sheet a metal, but possibly one sheet, seperated with some sort of heat absorption material, and then another sheet a metal to sandwich it together. Thereby, hopefully really reducing the chances of heat getting through.
However, i don\'t know what good affordable heat absorption materials there are that are readily and easily available.
http://www.jdmperformance.co.uk/universal.php?subName=DEI%20Thermal%20Products&subID=333000396 (http://www.jdmperformance.co.uk/universal.php?subName=DEI%20Thermal%20Products&subID=333000396)
There you go, chap
Cool (Quite literally!), cheers!
Quote from: SiH;504217V-mount won\'t solve heatsoak issues :no: as i\'ve found to my dismay.
The air rising from the rad below heats up the IC.
It\'s hard to tell how much the actual inlet charge is affected with the IAT sensor in the stupid stock position though, i really need to relocate mine to the elbow.
Haven\'t noticed this with mine - obviously you need airflow to keep things in check but the fans on my rad pull air down through it keeping the IC nice and cool even in traffic.
intake temps will rise but only by 10 or so degrees. On boost I\'m seeing ambient +10 (less when 80+).
Guess it depends a lot on the v-mount size...