Ok, every time the 7 idles after a long drive the idle gets a little lumpy, it stays in between 1 and 0.5 krevs but its a bit erratic?
Also unless cold the engine wont start unless i put my foot on the floor whilst cranking. The engine has had the air pump and baffles removed (not too sure if this would affect it).
Any ideas?
cheers :D
Sounds like it is flooding, cause putting your foot down is the deflood procedure i believe, What ECU you using, and what mods ??
so it floods every time i turn it off?
its had the air pump and baffles removed and it has a racing beat exhaust (header back).
everything else is stock
An engine that starts from cold but troublesome when hot could point to compression. Also you have a rough idle - could be wide of the mark, which I hope I am :(
okey doke, well its in for a new starter motor and exhaust next week so i guess ill get the compression looked at then.
if its bad ill stick it in storage untill i can afford to rebuild. But ill have to actually drive a clio again...gulp
The EGI\'s do suffer from leaky injectors - which makes starting difficult. Not sure about the idle - that could just be the TPS needs adjusting - or possibly problem with airflow adjustment
Quote from: Prof;502431The EGI\'s do suffer from leaky injectors - which makes starting difficult. Not sure about the idle - that could just be the TPS needs adjusting - or possibly problem with airflow adjustment
whats the TPS?
and when you say air flow, do you mean intake or exhaust? or inside the engine even?
^ i looked up TPS. ..
and feel a bit silly
Quote from: dthebuk;502433whats the TPS?
and when you say air flow, do you mean intake or exhaust? or inside the engine even?
Sorry - was outside trying to refit my LC-1 - it needed a repair :(, got rained off again.
I see you\'ve found TPS - mine was out and caused a wierd hunting - that\'s why I mentioned it.
Airflow - The AFM (air flow meter) allows for a certain amount of bypass air to bypass the metering and enter the intake, along with the BAC vavle these regulate the idle, as the throttle plates will be virtually closed. It could be the BAC valve isn\'t working correctly or needs cleaning - or you may need to adjust the air bypass screw on the AFM - not sure if you have the flapper type or conde type - I have the cone AFM and it has an adjuster screw that\'s blocked by a soft plastic plug, but can be got at if it should need adjustment.
I would go with the BAC valve first - since that alone regulates idle when the engine is warm.
The car has a flapper type afm. Is the BAC valve part of AFM? In which case i assume id have to take the afm apart?
Quote from: dthebuk;502448The car has a flapper type afm. Is the BAC valve part of AFM? In which case i assume id have to take the afm apart?
No BAC valve is the long round thing with a couple of hoses on it mounted on the upper inlet manifold - although not sure if it\'s as visible on an EGI as it is on the Turbo II.
you don\'t meen the big rubber flexi pipe do you? The one that leads to the afm.
Come to think about it, i have had that out, maybe one or both of the hoses have come loose. Ill give that a check next time i take the car for a drive.
Big thanks for all the help btw :Thumbs-up
looking at the service pdf\'s, it\'s underneath your intake - tis about 4 inches long, and 1 inch diameter - and has an electrical plug, 2 water hoses and one air hose (the other air outlet is into the manifold itself)