Hi Guys,
After spending a year with my car off the road its time to get it finished, everything bay wise is in, I\'ve had it mapped which highlighted a few ingition problems, I\'ve fitted and ignition amp, done plugs and lead and got it all sorted.
The thing is i have a boost problem, sometimes it pulls like a demon, but occasionally, nothing. Its 50/50 to whether it works or not, I\'m lost to what is causing it i thought it wasn\'t holding vacumm as sometimes comming off the clutch letting it build vacuum back and flooring it would cure it but not all the time.
I want to stay seqential as I prefer it but I want it to work, now I have done a fair bit of work to the car, and I want to dramatically simplfy the system so I can make trouble shooting this easier.
Is there a way of sorting out the turbo sytem so it still works sequentially and property or where do I start fixing this problem.
Alan
There is the turbo simplification here (http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/turbo_system_simplification.htm) that I used, note that it removes all the emission solenoids whilst leaving the sequential sytem working normally. The ones that remain are orientated the opposite way on the diagram to the car so it isn\'t as easy to follow as first looks! Also it completely ignores the solenoid to the FPR. This is used for hot starting only, I removed the solenoid and just connected the FPR to the backward facing nipple on the LIM, it works fine. If you have a boost controller you may be able to remove both the WG and pre control solenoids by teeing the actuators together and letting the boost controller regualte them both, but I am still researching into that so don\'t quote me. I have also teed the omp nozzle breather pipes together and just put a filter on it rather than connect it to the inlet of the turbo (you can see it as the two turquoise lines on the diagram that seem to go nowhere on the block)-this may or may not be a good idea, maybe someone else would like to comment. Whilst I was doing it I also removed the secondary throttle plates (http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/double_throttle.htm), automatic choke on the TB (http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/throttle_body_coolant.htm) and the throttle dashpot (http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=180123). I read that you needed to wire the automatic choke to the correct place otherwise it would always idle high, as it thinks the engine is always cold. when I did it, it was pretty obvious that you could just remove the whole assembly rather than just bypassing it, and it would work fine, so thats what I did. Have no trouble with cold starts or anything, maybe just need to turn it over a couple more times on the starter and dab the throttle, but nothing else (so just like starting a classic car!). it makes removing the TB a lot easier.
The only other thing you might consider whilst doing this is consider new solenoids for peace of mind, I spoke to lightning dynamics and they do an uprated set, but is a bit of a lead time, and the price is quite high. However I don\'t know how many solenoids were in that price, I guess I should go back and ask!
Marco
Right thats what I\'m talking about, I just want a basic system that works so I don\'t have to bugger about everytime it stops working.
I have already removed the acv, the double throttle and most of the emmissions stuff, I have a nismo fpr on there anyway too.
Right before I get involved in this, does it work!!!
And also where am I\' going to get the connectos to T off for
When you removed the ACV did you just blank it off or did you add the filter thingie it shows on Rob\'s site? And does the double throttle removal make much difference? Sorry to hijack but i\'ve considered doing these jobs for a while and never made my mind up either way.
Thanks
Rob
yup it works, and as for the required t pieces, i snipped the bass pipework to just give me what was required. although when i redo mine again (looking to relocate some new solenoids) i will prob get some new connectors- cant be either that expensive or hard to get?as i say, i have done everything i outlined, apart from using the boost controller for the wg and pre-control, and so i cannot say how effective it is.
btw, in contact with a guy in the US r.e. uprated solenoids, if you are interested then pm me and i will send you details!
forgive me, the ACV it the big block on the LIM that connects to the airpump and the exhaust right? i blanked it off. you can just disconnect it, but that would be a bit budget! as for the double throttle, i dunno, the car felt different after i did it, but i had done few things at once. put it this way, it isn\'t going to do any harm, and although the improvement is minimal, with a car such as ours we can only improve in small steps, so whilst a lot of mods wont show improvement in isolation, cumulatively it helps! You can also port the uim once you have removed it, although i didn\'t do it at the time, as i didn\'t have the tools.
I could be interested in some uprated solenoids, can\'t pm as I\'m not a full member anymore.
ah yes, you a member of any other uk based internet forums related to FDs?;)
I most certainly am, same username too,
Also what vac line is everyone using, I bought some samco last year when was doing a few bits then I got some off reworx and the reworx stuff was a lot better but I don\'t know what itwas.
just some cheap stuff i got off clive, works fine! i am not one who goes for flashy engine bays so as long as it does the job i dont really mind.
I\'m not one for being that flashy, they were both plain black just the stuff I got from reworx had a lot thinker wall to it and just seemed a lot stronger.
speak to clive, the stuff was black and pretty thick (with fiber re-enforcement IIRC) and plenty flexible.
Cool i\'ll see what I can get hold off, gonna get the rats nest out tomorrow evening then I can test all the solenoids, get the hose etc ordered and then next sat make it work
Have you seen my very "cough cough" through and practical write up on how to check the solenoids! I found it fairly easy to check them, just make sure that you use a higher pressure than your car is running. Also when you change the rats nest make sure you dont do what i did and disconnect 2 pipes, go for a cuppa and then forget which way round the 2 pipes connect. Doh!
I haven\'t seen you guide, if you\'d like to post a link that would be awesome, if anyone is interested I\'ll do a write up of how it goes too
Here you go bud: clicky (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44377)
If you have any Q\'s or need any advice let me know bud.
Right, all is not well, and I need help now.
This is what I have done and then I will explain the problem and pray someone can help.
I have done the turbo simplification, the only part I havent done is put resistors in as I don\'t have any but seeing as I\'m running a power FC it shouldn\'t be a problem. I have already removed the butterlflys from the UIM and stuff, I have moved the cooland pipe and wired open the throttle body.
Now the problem is I put it all back together, put the battery back in and the car fired up, when I tap the throttle the car dies for a 2nd the catches, but if I put my foot flat to the floor it revs to 4k and stops, and if I hold my foot down it revs to 4 dies the cuts out drops to 3k revs to 4k drops back to 3k and back and forth.
Any one got any ideas i\'ve getting really sick of this the car has just been a paper weight for 6 months I haven\'t driven it.
And before any one suggests one of the tunners I can\'t afford it at the moment.
Alan
Oh and I forgot to mention that the heat light is permenantly on now too
check you havent missed a connection- TPS?
Bugger, I don\'t remember pluggig that in, Be right back
Are you running the power fc? If so, the heat light indicates an issues with a sensor or switch. You can check which one on the switch check screen under etc.
check the TPS is within the right limits too (when the engine is hot)
I forgot to plug the TPS in, lol.
Plugged it in, key in and it fired up purfectly, and I\'m getting boost on both turbo\'s :-).
For the first time in a year the car now boost on both turbo\'s and is driveable, is feels pretty quick, well a lot quicker than my s3 but I still not think its as quick as it should be for the mods I have done.
A
i\'ve not read everything in this thread, but it sounds exactly like what i had going on with mine.
sounds like a leaky pressure chamber or vacuum chamber to me.
check the vacuum hoses around the black plastic pressure chamber on top of the engine next to the strut brace. I removed my pressure chamber (2 bolts) only to find underneath a large greeny coloured one-way valve had split. £10 fix.
however, after i fitted, i found the pipes continued to blow off. jubilee them up, but not over tight, else you\'ll snap the one-way valve.
usually find the symtons of this problem are solid boost upto 5k, then a decrease in boost after this, or no boost at all.
what to check:
the one way valve i had trouble with:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/jdrp1984/IMG_77971.jpg)
where to find it:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/jdrp1984/vacuum_hose_diagram211.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/jdrp1984/S80008301.jpg)
thats what i found with mine anyway :)
Quote from: JohnP;509250i\'ve not read everything in this thread, but it sounds exactly like what i had going on with mine.
I\'d read the post above yours at the very least then! :D Cos he solved the issue by plugging the TPS socket into the sensor.
just did... *sigh* :)
*hopes someone else with boost trouble finds my waste of time useful* :D
john that sounds exactly the problem with my car... i\'m checking when i get home! non-sequential may be postponed!
not the one-way valve u need to check is the one out-of-focus in the pic. It has a small hard vacuum pipe coming from it, that connects to the plastic pressure chamber.
hope it solves your prob ;)