Got a problem with my 1991 TII:Grrr Once the engine has got to running temp, I am getting power loss/bogging down/misfiring just as she is coming on to boost. Anything more than 1/3 throttle and she\'s no go!!!:Hammer
Runs o.k. when cold.
She seems to be in limp mode, but I cant seem to find the engine check light to do a fault check.... Where should this be located?:2Confused
Anyone had similar symptoms??? And what was the solution???
Mucho thanko:wave
there isnt a check light as such - you have to connect 2 leds to a block connector in the front by the battery - and it will show the codes that way
have a search on here for the error codes ( in fact i think i put them in the FAQ bit :D )
Hi Stu,
Thats what I thought, But after some research on the net this only applies to Gen2 from 86 to 88.
89 to 91 apparently have a check light??? And you earth the single connector next to the diagnostic connector... Even made myself fault code monitor last night but the diagnostic plug only has 3 connectors? and when connected up they are lit up all the time.
Perhaps also a leak in the intake somewhere?
the USA spec ones do ( or so i think ) - you can still make one for the s5 - as prof - im sure hes done it
have a read of this : http://www.banzai-racing.com/FD&S5_error_codes.htm
Sounds like 1 of 2 things:
1) It\'s over boosting and you are getting fuel cut
2) It\'s picking up excessive knock/faulty knock sensor
Quote from: m1tch;498724Perhaps also a leak in the intake somewhere?
Checked the intake system.... Everything is in order:yes
Quote from: grinder;498753the USA spec ones do ( or so i think ) - you can still make one for the s5 - as prof - im sure hes done it
Will have to get in touch with Prof to try and find out hows he\'s done it.
Thanks for the thread, but as I have no engine check light there\'s no way I find the fault/s
Quote from: Brett;498916Sounds like 1 of 2 things:
1) It\'s over boosting and you are getting fuel cut
2) It\'s picking up excessive knock/faulty knock sensor
1) I dont think its an over boosting issue as I have ran the car with my Blitz Access ECU and the problem still remains. When its up to temp, anything more than 10 - 20% throttle and it starts bogging down.
2) Have done a knock sensor test and the timing would not retard.... So is possible the fault is in that system. I just need to do a code check to confirm before I start splashing out:Giggle
Got in touch with Prof this evening, and he\'s very kindly informed me how to make a test light and the procedure of self diagnostic test on the S5.
Just knocked up a check light! And ran a test on the ol rex, came up with a code 27!!! MOP fault which was probably the last place I\'d of checked.
Looking at the manual it states Malfunctioning MOP, step motors, broken wire, short circuit or malfunctioning ECU. Fail safe function is MOP fixed to smallest opening, Basic fuel and fixed ignition timing.
Which ties in with my symptoms!!!
Just hope its not the ECU as I have fitted two (One is my Blitz ECU:Hammer) both are giving off the same problems, so would seem unlikely... Fingers crossed:Laugh
Just the job of tracing the fault with the MOP now. Was planning on making a two stroke MOP conversion in the near future... Looks like this will be coming a little sooner!
Anyone got a spare electronic MOP??? May need one if the fault is not the connector or loom.
Thanks to everyone for contributing to the thread... Especially Prof! Will keep you posted on my progress:Thumbs-up
can you post the info for making the check light thingy - i have some spare LED\'s - so i might make a perminant one for the car :D
ECU Diagnostics plug for FC - 89-91 (S5)
You need either a 12V LED (an ordinary led in series with 1K resistor would also work fine) or small bulb. Wire one end to the Battery +VE terminal (for the LED this needs to be the anode lead) and the other wire to the bottom left connector on the 6 pin diagnostic plug in the picture (as viewed from the socket end, with clip downwards). Then ground out the 1 pin test connector, and turn the ignition switch 2 positions (not starting the engine). The codes will be rattled off in sequence, starting with the lowest error codes.
The format is \'Tens\' first (there may be 0 or more), then \'Ones\' (again 0 or more). Combine the 2 numbers you get to give you the code. Once the sequence is complete, there will be a long gap then the sequence repeats itself. If you are not sure if you have a code or have it wired correctly - you can force a code 13 (MAP) by unplugging the Manifold Pressure sensor) - It\'s a useful sanity check !
You may here some clicking of relays / solenoids during the testing - this is normal.
To reset the ECU codes, disconnect the battery earth terminal for about 5 minutes (you can press the brake pedal to kill any residual charge stored if you want to do it quicker).
so you cant make this a permenant thing as you have to ground the lead .. or can you leave it perm grounded ????
I wouldn\'t recommend permanently grounding the 1 way test wire, but you could wire it to a switch in the dash easy enough.