Hey guys, I just got my Baileys BOV (thank you :)) and I am just fitting it, unfortunatly when its all hooked up, intake blocked, BOV fitted and Vacuum line put in, the car starts but doesn\'t idle, I can keep it from stalling by keeping the throttle down a bit, but there is obviously something wrong.
The T piece in the intercooler pipework that the BOV is fitted to is metal, the Baileys BOV diameter goes snuggly over that, do you think that this joint is leaky meaning I should get some silicon hoseing on there? The OEM hosing from there to the OEM recirc valve is too small for the Baileys :( Is there anything else I am doing wrong?
Can you post a pic of what you\'ve done ?? and what do you mean by
""unfortunatly when its all hooked up, intake blocked,""
Post a pic up - then we can see what you mean
(deleted) Oops, sorry Just seen that it\'s 2nd gen, Doh!! :)
Ok will do!
here you go
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P5130006.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P5130005.jpg)
thats looks like it should be !
you might have leak where it meets the IC pipe
Does the Baileys valve open when it\'s idling or is it shut ??
I have one fitted on an FD but when idling it is venting... Would have thought yours should be the same otherwise it would be boosting the intake as when idling air should be entering just on vacuum if you get me
That looks correct - you need to check all the hoses are sealed :)
I though there might have been a leak between the IC and the BOV, but I have just duct taped the BOV onto the top of the rubber pipe so that it didn\'t leak hmmm do you suggest I try and start the car with the vacuum pipe disconnected so that it doesn\'t let of anything on start up? Then i will know if its the BOV that needs adjusting, how am I able to do that though? this BOV has come off an FD RX7 already lol
that valve should be open on idle mine used to be open when the car was idling i dont think the seal where it meets the pipework is tight get a pce of silicon to join the valve to the pipework and clip both ends and check the vac pipe as that should be lifting the valve on idle
get a vac source that isnt shared u have a t pce there take the vac pipe from plenum to valve and dont share the source
on vac that valve will open either tha vac source is too weak because its shared or ur vac is really low either way if u rev the car that valve should open
If you disconnect the vacuum it wont open at all and you\'ll be in the same position...
Baileys BOV\'s are not adjustable... Have you checked the vacuum lines for leaks as this is where i would start tbh
Hmm ok, well I mean when I put the recirc valve back in place it works fine again, so it must be a leak, im gonna go try and temporarily tape the BOV to the IC pipework just to see if it runs correctly, its a pretty tight fit, but yeah I guess its about the only place I can think it might leak!
What happens if you use the recirc valve, but leave the return end open - i.e. you are using it like a BOV - so plumbed in for the vac pipe, and in the turbo to intercooler pipe, but just with the other end open and your bung in the intake pipe - this will test if your bung is sealing the intake properly.
Once that test is done, you need to see if your losing air out of the turbo to intercooler pipe - if you connnect the BOV, but leave the vac hose unconnected, and block off the vac hose end that\'s lose - so you don\'t have a vac leak - you now have a BOV in the circuit, but it will not operate. This will test if you have an air leak from the BOV or it\'s hoses.
Can you not use the stock hose that fed the recirc valve ? - it may take some getting on to the BOV, but should fit.
If the problem happens when you connect the VAC actuator line up to the BOV, then there is something wrong with the BOV.
ok :D I will try all those things lol the problem with the OEM pipe is that the ID of the pipe is the same as the BOV I think, so I can\'t get the OEM pipe over the lip on the BOV hmm I will try all those things in a bit when I have sorted something else :D thanks :D
u need a pce of silicon pipe one end over the valve other end on the i/cooler and tighten clips each end of silicon/next take a non shared vac line to get best vac feed
i can guarantee the bov is not faulty and that with correct seal and good vac veed u sill see the valve open..they are really simple the bailey ones so nothing to go wrong..either the seal is not good where it meets the i/cooler pipe or the vac feed pipe does not have sufficent vac to open the valve
Ok I have tried a few things:
Recirc valve set up OEM, all plugged in ok = engine runs fine
Recirc valve set up OEM but intake end left open and bung in intake = engine won\'t idle and stalls
Recirc valve set up OEM but intake end left open and bung in intake plus a disconnected Vac line = engine runs fine
Right ive just been out there again, on idle the BOV and recirc valve is fully open, I swapped the recirc for the BOV, plugged the intake but didn\'t connect the vac line, the engine runs fine, connect the vac line back up (it didn\'t matter if it was blocked or not, it still idles fine) the BOV opened fully and the engine stalled :(
disconnect the vac line and run a new vac line from another dedicated vac source and connect the bov while u have plugged the other vac line..it must be realted to the vac line u are using
The vac line I am using is the OEM vac line for the recirc valve though :(
on a recirc there must be a pipe left open have u placed a bung in this pipe as it seems u are taking in or losing air which is why it stalls if
it makes no difference if the vac line is blocked or just left open, i can hear it sucking quite a bit on idle hmmm :(
not talking about blocking the vac line there must be a pipe that attatched to the re-circ have u blocked this off
The idea behind the recirc test is based on this thread:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30312&highlight=recirc
M1tch has bunged up the intake and left either the BOV or Recirc valve on the output of the turbo compressor - and with no vac pipe attached to actuate the valve there is no problem. This means that both the BOV and recirc valve are not leaking air normally, and the bung in the intake must be sound as well.
What it does mean is that there is too much pressure differential between the vac line and the turbo compressor outlet which is opening the valve on idle. Not sure whether you can restrict or pill the vacuum line to stop that happening on idle - if it can be done that should be the solution.
Can you post a pic up of the standard recirc valve setup?
You might find some useful info here (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=145215#post145215)
:yes - I just looked there too !
Where did you take your vac feed from Brett ?
The only thing I can think, is that this BOV and the recirc valve open up with the vac on idle, is that supposed to happen ?
Thats exactly what happens on my FD....
:( arg I dunno what I need to do why can\'t stuff just work lol *pokes BOV and tells it to stop opening on idle* lol
Ive taken a video of my car dying lol this is the car running fine with the Baileys BOV on, intake plugged but the vac line off, then I put the vac line on and you can see the piston open and the car die :(
so as soon as you connect up the vac the bov opens and it all goes to pot.
As I understood it - and certainly how mine is wired, the BOV should not open on idle, only when you let off after boosting, so in other words only when you have vac on the actuator and boost on the inlet of the BOV.
On idle, you should have vac on the actuator and vac on the inlet to the BOV as well.
think my pal once had this problem and he ended up fitting a larger/stronger spring to overcome the idle vac and keep valve shut. still cant understand why it dies tho as doesnt the fd have no afm?
I was expecting a scream at the end of that video, lol
lol hmm well Prof showed me the same sort of topic on the RX7 club and someone posted this:
Another common problem with BOV\'s is that people tend to "T" off the BOV vacuum line.
Try not to do this!
This just causes the BOV not to open properly.
So I might need to find a separate source for the vac, I don\'t really feel like taking my non adjustable Baileys BOV apart lol
Dunno how different FC upper inlet manifolds are to the FD ones, but on the FD there are two blanked nipples on the face next to the brake servo vaccuum line take off. One is for a boost gauge, and the other is ideal for a dump valve actuating vacc line. Works fine on mine. Is there such a thing on the FC? might be worth trying.
M1tch, I have noticed that you have no rubber hose from the i/c pipe to bov... would recommend installing a hose between the two for a better seal.
Is the bailey a single piston bov? It looks like it is. which will be no good for the FC as the afm is before the bov and at idle you will have vacuum in the system as the throttle plates are nearly closed. Causing the piston in the bov to open letting un-metered air in to the engine and the ecu cannot cater for this air coming in as the afm is before the bov.
Bailey did do a twin piston bov for cars with afm before the bov... (i.e. air filter, afm then bov) Or a single piston bov with preload adjustment will work on the FC setup, like my Blitz bov on mine. This is because the preload adjuster can be wound in to a sufficient pressure stopping the vacuum at idle to open the bov.
Hope this helps.
Hmm I thought I have the wrong sort for an FC :( Prof has the double piston Baileys on his and it works fine hmm so it looks like they are ok for FDs but not FCs *sigh*
i have a blitz one on mine and its fine
Is it possible to put washers behind the springs on the baileys to preload them ? That might stop it opening on idle vacuum, but it will still open when you have boost on the inlet to the bov and vacuum on the actuator.
I also found out that the stock bypass valves *are designed* to leak a little on idle, allowing the engine to drag metered air in to the throttles past the compressor turbine, to provide an easier airpath. Wthout a check valve, the standard bypass valve will not work as a BOV.
if u have an afm or maf sensor on the fc then no this wont work as the fd is map (manifold pressure)..with a afm if the valve is after the afm then as it opens then yes the car will stall because the ecu has worked out the metered air and then the valve opens and stalls the car because the air has not been metered
thats what the problem is
for a afm fed car u need a twin piston bov that is closed on idle strange that an earlier fc id maf sensor fed and later car is map sensor fed
I shared the vacuum/pressure line that feeds the pressure sensor.
Hmm should I just sell this shiny Bailey BOV to an FD owner and get my another BOV?
Oh, and Ive found out how to make the stock recirc valve louder lol, when I was taking off the recirc valve there was a washer in the end of the pipe that fit over the IC pipe outlet end, basically restricts the pressurised air. I took this out, and now my recirc is quieter lol so guess whats going back in tomorrow :D lol