Just thought i\'d rack the forums brains and see if any ideas are thrown up?!
i\'ve just finished my d.i.y rebuild on my \'93 FD engine which has also included permanent non sequential conversion, battery relocated to boot and custom front mount.
I have good compression, i have spark and also a good supply of fuel, it turns over and tries to fire but doesnt catch and run?!?!
i\'m spending today double checking everything but wondered if anyone had any tips or known difficulties in startign a rebuilt engine?
i\'ve also noticed that when i turn it over both the fans turn once? any ideas if this is normal?
i know its a bit vague and i\'m not asking for a direct solution, more of a helping hand with known mistakes/faults/problems!
cheers guys!
A rebuilt engine should start immediately without any problems whatsoever. Also fans turning over once is not normal. Otherwise i don\'t really have an answer. Are the CAS plugged in? Are they plugged in correctly? Are you using good plugs (Not old ones)?
I took alot of photos during strip down so for most of the wiring it was just a case of looking at the photos and copying it, so both the CAS are plugged in exactly as they were when it was last running.
plugs are brand new......
appreciate your input tho!
when u say u have fuel, are your plugs wet? or is the pump just activated? Sometime injecters can seize if not used for some time....you can try and use a bit of easy start to kick start it.....be careful with the stuff it is volatile (dont throw a tip)...also known people to inject a bit of atf (Transmission fluid) into the plug hole of engine to try and start a new engine( should improve compression)...if u have used new housings and tips it will be a bitch to start first time....had the same problem...other suggestions..
Do u have good fuel pressure?
Is your coolant temp sensor plugged in? (Will make it a bitch to start if connector or cable is knackered)
Strong spark?
Plug leads on the right way?
All plugs under dash plugged in, inc big blue one...
Do the relays click when ignition turned on...if not check egi fuse and relay(i suppose if u have fuel and spark then this is ok)
could be so many things....broken wiring etc hope this helps
Is the fuel feed on the right pipe, saying this as it was my problem. check timing plugs.
Quote from: bin liner;498168if u have used new housings and tips it will be a bitch to start first time....had the same problem...other suggestions..
Just like to say I disagree with this comment based on my own experiences! Mine started straight away 2 years ago on 2 brand 2 housings and spex seals...and started straight away this time around on a brand new housing.
Also, i had the coolant temp sensor plugged in incorrectly (was plugged into the fuel temp sensor and vice versa!) and mine was a bitch to start.....but it did start.
Here\'s another it could be,
The primary injector plugs will plug onto the secondary injectors and vise versa and the car will not start
If the fans are coming on, the ECU "thinks" the car is warm, whereas in fact, it is cold. This will cause the ECU to inject too little fuel, it needs to be much richer for a cold start.
Check the connector behind the thermostat.
If you want o prove thats its too lean, try this:
Remove the liitle black rubber hoses for boost gauge, and blow off valve from the inlet manifold.
Now use a syringe and inject some petrol in there, about 2 mils in each. Now try and start it, and if it starts, we know its too lean.
when you say good compression, how much???
did you clearance your side seals properly?
i had the same issue, i had to tow mine to get it going.
Quote from: clive;498201Here\'s another it could be,
The primary injector plugs will plug onto the secondary injectors and vise versa and the car will not start
The primary injector connectors are taped together and will only stretch a couple of centre meters and the secondarys are much further apart, so I think this would be nearly impossible.
If everything is ok with the engine, then I would recommend a full deflood and then try it again with a good very good battery, and once started keep it alive for a while, obviously monitoring all temps etc.
cheers for all the replies, really appreciate everyones input!
i\'ll hopefully be able to get back on it tomorrow night and go through everything with a fresh view, i\'ll keep you updated with progress?
Flooded the engine? I also saw that you relocated the battery, have you tried to run it when its in the engine bay, incase for some reason its not got enough juice to run the starter motor and give a good spark?
immobilizer?
He says there is spark, so I doubt its the immobiliser.
When i first started mine i had the same problem. Basically it flooded. Get your plugs out and dry them up, should start. Mine was lumpy for a few minutes but should start running fine after a bit of a run. Mine was a DIY Build with new plates and housing\'s. Still running fine now so i\'ve been told :)
HTH
Ads
set the plugs alight on the floor to get them warm,before doing this crank the engine 3 or 4 times on full throttle with egi relay and plugs removed,then fit the warm plugs,try to use fresh fuel as that would have less chance of flooding,just keeping repeating it will start eventually.
one of mine had quite alot of oil vaseline and old fuel to clear first:bandit
I should hope he\'s got it started 7 months down the line!
i got real issues with my laptop,thats the second time ive done that this week,you never know though its very easy to give up on the old spin dryer.
Quote from: a.tapos;561593set the plugs alight on the floor to get them warm,before doing this crank the engine 3 or 4 times on full throttle with egi relay and plugs removed,then fit the warm plugs,try to use fresh fuel as that would have less chance of flooding,just keeping repeating it will start eventually.
one of mine had quite alot of oil vaseline and old fuel to clear first:bandit
..with plugs +egi+fuel fuse thingys out to deflood -if the "fuel" mixture coming out where plugs go, it seems to be too oily -I would have expected it to be just fuel not a black
mixture.....any ideas {this is a related problem I have seen...}
Thanks
The first thing that comes to mind is that there should be oil in the mixture as oil is injected into the chamber via the oil metering pump,
also the breather system tends to blow oily mist back into the inlet which may create some residue,
the other thing is that most turbo cars collect this mist in all the piping and intercooler till it collects then when you nail creeps in,worst case would be turbo seal weeping or rotor oil control seals are hard or cracked,
the difficulty is deciding how much is normal if you have nothing to compare it to and if its a problem at all.
mine did have a bit,:wiggle
Oh and carbon is black as death so when the fuel drags some off the rotor it changes the colour of the fuel to black
mmmmmmm....thanks...
Quote from: a.tapos;561706The first thing that comes to mind is that there should be oil in the mixture as oil is injected into the chamber via the oil metering pump,
also the breather system tends to blow oily mist back into the inlet which may create some residue,
the other thing is that most turbo cars collect this mist in all the piping and intercooler till it collects then when you nail creeps in,worst case would be turbo seal weeping or rotor oil control seals are hard or cracked,
the difficulty is deciding how much is normal if you have nothing to compare it to and if its a problem at all.
mine did have a bit,:wiggle
ok.....................................
I was told oil is injected (only) at high revs....?!