Right... Finally got around to welding and mot\'ting my T2 :Laugh But have a boost loss issue with it, its got a Rotechniks Phase 1 remap running approx 0.8 Bar. Its peaking to this then dropping off to around 0.5 Bar.:god
Apart from the obvious... Checking the pipe work, is there any common faults to look out for (sensors etc....) that cause this on the T2???
Hmm im guessing you need to check all the pipework for leaks or if the intercooler is damaged and leaking, just a few ideas, im sure there will be lots of posts to help you :) good luck!
Quote from: m1tch;497199Hmm im guessing you need to check all the pipework for leaks or if the intercooler is damaged and leaking, just a few ideas, im sure there will be lots of posts to help you :) good luck!
Had a quick look around for loose hose clips etc... The intercooler seems to have no obvious damage. Will investigate further come weekend :rolleyes:
Just wanted to know if there is any common faults with the related sensors etc...
Thanks for your input m1tch:yes
Have you done an ECU code check? it might be the boost solenoid or something, there is a list of codes here for the S5:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30007#Q6
so if it shows code 13 or something it might be something like that :)
sorry to interupt your thread - but are you coming to the rising sun car show on sat ???
If I recall correctly, the phase 1 thingy that Rotechniks do is effectively an FCD, so it\'s stopping the boost cut to the rear rotor and allowing boost to build higher.
However, if your\'re still running the stock boost solenoid, then it will drop off at the top end, and you\'ll need to use an aftermarket boost controller to keep boost high and not trail off. Try blocking off the boost solenoid pipe with a clamp and see what boost you hit/hold.
Quote from: m1tch;497215Have you done an ECU code check? it might be the boost solenoid or something, there is a list of codes here for the S5:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30007#Q6
so if it shows code 13 or something it might be something like that :)
No... I have no means of code checking unless this can be done via a self diagnostics check??? Like Nissans???
Quote from: grinder;497217sorry to interupt your thread - but are you coming to the rising sun car show on sat ???
Not sure on this Stu... Are you there for the weekend?
Quote from: Prof;497218If I recall correctly, the phase 1 thingy that Rotechniks do is effectively an FCD, so it\'s stopping the boost cut to the rear rotor and allowing boost to build higher.
However, if your\'re still running the stock boost solenoid, then it will drop off at the top end, and you\'ll need to use an aftermarket boost controller to keep boost high and not trail off. Try blocking off the boost solenoid pipe with a clamp and see what boost you hit/hold.
I thought that but have not found anything spliced into the ECU loom. Do you know if this is fitted internally or externally to the ECU? It is still running on the stock boost soleniod, Will try blocking off the pipe. I tried my Blitz Access ECU tonight... Its doing a similar thing but my A/R meter is much more stable, will try out my Re Amemiya ECU next.
I know they will cure my boost loss problem but they will offer a better map:Thumbs-up
Will have a play and let you know how I get on.:Thumbs-up
Quote from: DRIFTMOTION;497228I thought that but have not found anything spliced into the ECU loom. Do you know if this is fitted internally or externally to the ECU?
Fitted externally - probably in the engine bay, and intercepting the MAP sensor - I\'d look there - should be a small box of tricks in line with the MAP sensor. The chipped ECU\'s perform the same function, so you can take it out when you use them. :)
By the way - someone else has the same boost drop off - you might want to follow that thread as well :
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47355
I put a link on there from 1300cc about boost, boost creep and mods.
:cool
Thanks for that Prof... A true gent:Thumbs-up Will investigate further this weekend hopefully :2Confused
As we\'re talking boost drop off here, I\'ll post my progress or lack of it over here if that\'s ok?
I located / disconnected the plug off the solenoid but the boost still tailed off. So I then pulled both pipes off and plugged them in case the solenoid is leaking. It\'s still dropping off with the revs above 5krpm, but not quite as bad (maybe 10psi instead of 7-8psi). I think I might put this lot back and just connect the MBC directly across the turbo, bypassing this extra pipework? Anything else I could try?
Well, I\'ve now connected the MBC directly across the turbo to the wastgate actuator. I took it for a quick test drive, but it still appears to be the same.
I can only think of 2 reasons why the boost would drop off now-
1. Either - The std turbo can\'t keep up with the engines demands above 5K? It does have a monster exhaust, induction kit, but nothing else.
2. Or I have a boost leak.
The intercooler appears to be leak free as I left it to soak, filled with parrafin to clean it out and none leaked out. All pipework appears OK and are all good and tight.
Has anyone got a similar set-up, and does it hold boost (12-14psi) to the redline? The car goes well but I can\'t help wondering what it\'d go like if it\'d hold the 12-14psi I\'m trying to achieve. Or am I trying to achieve the un-achievable?
Cheers,
Nick
IIRC - My old TII with a monster exhaust would sustain 1.1-1.2 bar in 4th gear - so it\'s possible that your turbo is getting tired.
Ta Brett,
The turbo does seem to build pressure quickly and will hit whatever pressure I dial into the MBC. I\'ve had it up round 18psi no probs, but it just doesn\'t hold it above about 5k :xconfused.
I was wondering about the Blow Of Valve type device between the turbos pressure side and the inlet trunk? What pressure does it open at? It appears to be controlled by the little pipe on the top. What would happen if this was disconnected? Could it stall / damage the turbo during gear changes?
I don\'t think there\'s a major mechanical problem, but something daft. Just need all your help to find it now please.
Cheers,
Nick