Greetings
I\'ve been lurking for a while now, whilst my new RX7 gets a new engine (courtesy of Rotechniks). Made the mistake of buying private, ended up with a turkey, and have now had pretty much the entire engine-bay replaced :2Rolleyes
the remaining original items:
* a twin-air intake, looks like an Apexi, but according to rotechniks it isn\'t
* the turbo - the primary is pretty much non-functional, but i can\'t afford to replace it
* the water pump
pretty much everything else has been replaced (things like a crack flywheel, the radiator was fixed with araldite, most of the coolant pipes were cracked, some of the vacumn lines weren\'t, the wiring loom was shredded, the oil filter was missing, the coolant sensor had been removed, etc. the parts list from rotechniks covers 5 pages :2Confused )
Anyway - what i was wondering is: given i\'ve got a nice shiny new engine, how should i be driving it to run it in? (first time with a new engine, so not sure what is required / why an engine needs running in)
I\'ll be posting pictures once i get it back :driving
TBH mate Rotechnics should be advising as its under their warrenty.
However, ive just picked my own car up from Lindop on the weekend and ive been told to run in for 1000 miles. Keep it off boost but feel free to rev up to 3.5-4K.
Then its a map session to set up :)
Ooo, and welcome to the club!
Chris
Welcome along .
Gutted about the car it sounds like the previous owner stitched you up !
mine after rebuild for 500 miles under 3k not much boost ... oil change .... 500 miles up to 4k little boosting but all depends how the rebuilders feel .
I would say you run it in nice and gentel as all the new parts get time to wear in and settle .
Quote from: Sy.Welcome along .
Gutted about the car it sounds like the previous owner stitched you up !
If he did, i don\'t think it was deliberate (although it\'s hard to tell) - he wasn\'t a rotary fan (it was his wifes car, apparently :Nono!) - was selling, because she decided she wanted something new.
Quote from: SyI would say you run it in nice and gentel as all the new parts get time to wear in and settle .
Thats pretty much what i was thinking. I\'ll be talking to Rotechniks about it when i collect it, but it\'s always good to get a wider understanding (rather than just a basic list of Do\'s and Don\'ts). Depending on what they say (and if it is ready in time) i might trundle along to Castle Coomb on Sat - give it a bit of a gentle run along the motorway :Thumbs-up
Yep, same advice as I\'ve been given...
Just covered my first 500 miles, so now need an oil change ( gd quality 15W-40 mineral ) and filter change before covering another 500 miles doing the same...
ttfn Phil.
Quote from: Sy.Welcome along .
Gutted about the car it sounds like the previous owner stitched you up !
mine after rebuild for 500 miles under 3k not much boost ... oil change .... 500 miles up to 4k little boosting but all depends how the rebuilders feel .
I would say you run it in nice and gentel as all the new parts get time to wear in and settle .
1000 miles (or 1600 kilometers) under 4k with noooooo boost, or as little as possiable. then get the oil dropped. after 500mile chaning it wont do any harm either.
Likeing the car D2BBA, nice job on the front end.
:3gears-lh
Quote from: Steve-Q1000 miles (or 1600 kilometers) under 4k with noooooo boost, or as little as possiable. then get the oil dropped. after 500mile chaning it wont do any harm either.
Likeing the car D2BBA, nice job on the front end.
:3gears-lh
Why thank you kind sir!
Its a bit marmite to some, but to me its RE A at their finest ;)
Chris
Hello Mate and welcome
I also had a re-build 700Miles ago at Powergains Motor Sport in London
If I remember rightly I have been advised by Powergains the following:
1) Drive the car normally but do not boost too much
2) After 500 miles change the spark plugs
3) After 1000 miles change the oil
Regards,
Michaelb
Rotechniks rebuilt my engine
they\'ll talk you through it when you pick your car up and its also in the paperwork they\'ll give you
you then take it back to them after 1000miles and they the initial service, change your oil, turn your boost back on and check it over. etc.
which is included in the price.
but its 1000miles, revs below 4000 in any gear, no turbo boost and no more than 50% throttle, avoid labouring the engine, and avoid starting engine up for short periods of time with out fully warming up before switching off
what colour is it? and what exterior mods?. my mate works at rotechniks so i\'ll ask him to take a few pics if he\'s got a camera so i can have a sneak peak at your car:Giggle
Hi
Its \'Nail Varnish Red\' (quote from the guy i brought it from - he literally took his wife\'s nail varnish into the paint shop, and told them to match it :Laugh). Its got a full body-kit on it (blended in) - the nose looks like a veilside C1, but i\'m not sure if it is or not.
tbh it was a bit of a turkey when i got it - the outside looks nice, but pretty much the entire contents of the engine bay have been ripped out and replaced (or so it would seem from the parts list :rolleyes:)
Still - looking forward to collecting it (crossed fingers, should be ready by wednesday/thursday next week!)
i remember my mate mentioning your car the other week, as he mentioned the paint and the nail varnish
well, it\'s nice to know that it stands out :D
oh - and as i\'m keeping my knackered primary turbo, i shouldn\'t have to worry too much about boosting - it doesn\'t generate any! ;)
lol... i was just talking to him an hour ago as he\'s up in mk atm(dropped off a 2nd hand wilwood bigbrake kit for my fd:Thumbs-up ).. and they\'ve had to replace your water pump too, incase you didn\'t know( back of the blades were catching somewhere:confused: ).
yup - that leaves me with just the previous Primary Turbo and the Dual Air Intake to sort out later...
This car is costing me a bomb (\'specially as the suspension/rollbars need doing too), but at least i shouldn\'t have any reliability issues for a while :Thumbs-up
Pretty much echo what\'s been said - I\'ve had a few rebuilds now - but just take it easy - Rotechniks will take the car back after you\'ve covered the 1000 mile run in - and do oil change and checkup - just to make sure it\'s all bedded in. After that, start building up the revs / boost to work the engine in nice :driving. After a couple of 1000 it should rev freely to redline.
Woohoo - providing the wheels don\'t fall off when they do the road test tomorrow morning, I\'ll be driving it tomorrow evening!
Something tells me that i\'m not going to get too much work done tomorrow :Party
I got it! i got it! i got it! :D
Ahem. sorry about that - i kinda lost my grip ;)
Anyway - drove it home last night, ran great. Got a couple of pictures too, on my photo gallery - http://photo.mentalspace.co.uk/viewGallery
NIce like the Nail varnish red ... and the wheels suit it well :D
Bored, and killing time in the office, so i thought i would update this old thread... :D
When i collected the car, i was told that the Twin Air Intake had to be binned afterall, as a) the filters had more holes than a string vest, and b) the cones were held on using something looking suspiciously like plumbers tape!
All that said, Rotechniks have done a sterling job on the motor, and it runs like a dream. Took it for the mapping session following run-in last week, and then for a trip up to wales and back to test. all i can say is: Woooohooooooooo. ahem.
Very suprised at the way the car changed once the secondary turbo kicked in (remember that the primary is almost non-functional) - it really takes off. Even more suprising is the way the note of the exhaust changes - it\'s normally a really deep bass rumble, but at around 4.5-5k rpm it suddenly shifts up to a mid-range \'Brap\' noise - very very nice :D
Still need to do another 2k miles or so to finish fully running in (stil under orders to avoid the redline, and not go WoT too often). Also need to sort out the suspension (springs for sure, and possibly bushes) and get the wheels aligned.
good stuff dude - am looking forward to this myself - being able to enjoy the send tub that is! A couple more hundred miles for me before a service, oil change etc.....than hopefully one can start njoying the car properly! #;o)
Quote from: brucey;492106turn your boost back on
? :confused:
Quote from: logicalChimp;502666Very suprised at the way the car changed once the secondary turbo kicked in (remember that the primary is almost non-functional) - it really takes off.
Nice to read your pleased with it. Rotechnics have a good rep but you don\'t hear much of them on MRC for some reason.
On point though, from your description, you\'re still running standard twins and sequential? For the 2nd turbo to come in, you still need at least 7psi from the primary to activate the switch over gear to allow the 2nd turbo to work. I guess if you experience the 2nd turbo push, then your primary must be working to some degree to generate enough pressure. Why do you think it\'s almost non-functional? It may be better than you think, you never know!?
Yeah - Rotechniks did say that it was generating some boost - but (and i\'m probably going to use the wrong terminology here :p) the blades on the exhaust side have been force-fed lots of rotor-tips, or similar - they are severly chewn up/broken off.
When driving (even nearly WoT) i never really feel the primary turbo kick in (there is a slight difference from pre-run in, but not much), but i certainly feel when the second takes over!
However, i don\'t mind that the primary is less than optimal - i don\'t really need the turbo for motorway driving (of which i do a fair bit), so the reduced primary should (as i understand things) help with my fuel economy :D And if i need to overtake, i can always drop a gear :driving
Actually AndrewRX7, now that i think about it, Rotechniks did say that before the rebuild, the engine wasn\'t swapping to the secondary at all. Now, i know a couple of the hoses were in a pretty dubious condition (inc. leaking slightly), so the primary is probably only just managing to generate the required boost for the secondary to kick in.
I\'ll have to get myself a boost gauge or similar (when i can afford it - after fixing the rest of the car) so i can see what it is actually doing...
Quote from: Kevin;502705? :confused:
To reduce the chance of accidentally boosting while running in, Rotechniks turn the boost right down. As i\'ve said, my primary doesn\'t really generate any boost, but i can still feel a slight difference in how the car accelerates at around 3.5k rpm, now that they have put the boost back up and mapped the car...
So imagine what it\'ll be like when you get a good set of twins back in there! Full primary plus the combined effects of both from 5k onwards. Remember that the primary and secodary work together after 5k, (it is not primary then secondary only - it is combined boost at the higher revs), if you are loosing boost by a poor primary then you will also have lower boost when both are working. Go on, a couple of hundred quid for a good used set....you know you want to.....!:Laugh
Quote from: logicalChimp;502713Yeah - Rotechniks did say that it was generating some boost - but (and i\'m probably going to use the wrong terminology here :p) the blades on the exhaust side have been force-fed lots of rotor-tips, or similar - they are severly chewn up/broken off.
When driving (even nearly WoT) i never really feel the primary turbo kick in (there is a slight difference from pre-run in, but not much), but i certainly feel when the second takes over!
However, i don\'t mind that the primary is less than optimal - i don\'t really need the turbo for motorway driving (of which i do a fair bit), so the reduced primary should (as i understand things) help with my fuel economy :D And if i need to overtake, i can always drop a gear :driving
Actually AndrewRX7, now that i think about it, Rotechniks did say that before the rebuild, the engine wasn\'t swapping to the secondary at all. Now, i know a couple of the hoses were in a pretty dubious condition (inc. leaking slightly), so the primary is probably only just managing to generate the required boost for the secondary to kick in.
I\'ll have to get myself a boost gauge or similar (when i can afford it - after fixing the rest of the car) so i can see what it is actually doing...
You\'re right - i DO want too! ;)
howeer, before i can justify that, i need to:
* replace my front springs
* replace all suspension bushes/pillowballs/etc
* align the wheels
* fix the bodywork (rust etc)
* repaint (serious chips / scrapes / cracks)
* fit new alarm
Then i can start looking at niceties. As well as replaced tubbies, i want:
* Knight Sports twin popup headlights
* Lambo-style doors (probably only once i paid for everything else!)
* Steering wheel spacer nut + quick-release catch
* more comfortable seats
* refurb the alloys
* remove the rear seats, and fit a single driver-side rear bin
Once that little lot is done (probably take me a good couple of years to save for it), i\'ll probably have a new list of things to do... :D
Quote from: logicalChimp;502714To reduce the chance of accidentally boosting while running in, Rotechniks turn the boost right down. As i\'ve said, my primary doesn\'t really generate any boost, but i can still feel a slight difference in how the car accelerates at around 3.5k rpm, now that they have put the boost back up and mapped the car...
Never heard of that one before, certainly never had that with the numerous rebuilds i\'ve done or had done by WGT etc. Generally boost is controlled by your right foot. :Thumbsup!
Quote from: logicalChimp;502741* Lambo-style doors (probably only once i paid for everything else!)
NNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :Hammer
:chat
im just running mine in at the moment aswell, hasnt seen over 4k rpm but havent got the boost turned down i just dont use the throttle more than about 30%. im on around 750 miles now so im almost there. cant wait for full throttle and 4rpm +!!!!!!!
Quote from: Kevin;502759NNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :Hammer
:chat
Yeah - they can look a bit naff. Fortunately, the RX has such nicely sculptured doors (with that rounded bottom edge - no nasty corners) that it should look OK. Might have to do something about the window frame (cut it off - and weld it to the body work if stiffness is an issue) tho.
Thing is - my parking space (as well as being the communal bird-bog - see another thread :D) is pretty narrow - when the spaces either side are filled, i can barely get the door open enough for me to get in and out. Thus, lambo\'s will make my life much less stressful ;)
How about gull-wings instead...:yes
Quote from: andrewrx7;502831How about gull-wings instead...:yes
The ones that hinge along the roof-line? eurgh :)
besides - wouldn\'t solve my clearance problems :D
Alot of people have had bad expireances with lambo doors on fd\'s i\'ve heard.
Quote from: Timmy;502842Alot of people have had bad expireances with lambo doors on fd\'s i\'ve heard.
Yeah it\'s not good being tw@tted by a big stick. :evillaugh
Quote from: Timmy;502842Alot of people have had bad expireances with lambo doors on fd\'s i\'ve heard.
Don\'t suppose you know what sort of bad experiences / links to forum posts ?
Quote from: Kevin;502875Yeah it\'s not good being tw@tted by a big stick. :evillaugh
Pfft - if i can get in and out quick enough, i won\'t be hangin around long enough to be tw@tted :D
You\'ll certainly have a unique look, lol, Lambo doors and a roofrack covered in surfboards! It\'ll be like the Krypton Factor getting in and out of the thing!