Hi everyone I am after some help am having problems with my FD. I have juts swapped my engine for one out of my last FD that I had converted to single turbo, as the water seal went on the engine in the car.
I got the engine in ok and it started up first time, which I was quite suprised at as the engine had been sat in my shed for over a year.
Everything was going fine it got up to temp everything bled up fine, there was nothing showing in alarm on the commander. So I tried to take it out for a drive and it wouldnt rev past 3000, would saart to missfire and felt like it was going to cut out.
So far I have changed the plugs, checked all the fuel lines had fuel etc, and it still wouldnt rev. I thought it could be my seconday injectors had ceased shut as they were sat for so long so I got them ultrasonic cleaned and they said they were ok when I picked them up.
I fitted it all back in and de-flooded it as I spilt some fuel in the rotors when taking the fuel rail off, and now the car won\'t start, it turns over and sometimes try\'s to start but won\'t quite manage it.
I have changed the battery, made no difference, have de-flooded it loads of times as I am flooding it from trying to start it.
I am after ANY advice, things to check, as I have come to the end of my knowledge on what to do.
List of mods
Garrett HKS T04e single turbo
HKS wastegate
1600cc secondary injectors and rail (brought from MRP)
FSE rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Greddy FMIC
Apexi BNR33 in tank fuel pump
Apexi Power FC and commander
HKS SSQV BOV
Blitz SUS air filter
Street Ported secondary and exhaust
Dragon under drive pulley’s, air pump removed
Air con pump removed
Greddy Profec 2 boost controller
Greddy turbo timer
HKS twin plate clutch
First guestion did you use the same power fc? and is it still set up for the 1600\'s
yea I used the same power fc I assume it is still set up I havent touched it since i took it off the old car, thet dont reset or anything do they? It still says 1600cc in the settings on the commander.
Also forgot to mention, when I switch the ignition on the fuel pressure goes up to about 40psi on the guage on the FPR, and when I switch the ignition off it drops off to zero, I dont know if this is correct. Should the pressure maintian in the system when the ignition is off?
No my Fuel pressure drops off when the Ign is off.
Are you 100% all the grounds/Plugs are back in the correct places? No Plug leads or Injector plugs the wrong way round??
I was also thinking it sounds like a collapsed cat? could there be anything stuffed in the exhaust?? May sound daft but the common one is stuffing a rag in the down pipe then forgetting to remove it when building it up??
Also did it rev smoothly up to 3k and idle ok? or did it miss all the way to 3k?
Im sure I took all the rags out but am gonna double check now, will also check the grounds as havent checked them yet, it has a dragon de-cat on it which didn\'t rattle or anything when I put it on.
Not to sound like the Profit of doom or anything but have you tried a curb side Comp test? just too make sure you don\'t have any Stuck seals etc with it being stood for so long.
Right I finally got her started today after removing all plugs, egi and fuel pump relay, then turned her over for a fair while to make sure I got all the excess fuel out, then heated the plugs up a bit on the gas hob after cleaning them put it all back together and she started (with a lot of smoke). I left her running until she was up to temp then tried revving her, but still won\'t go past 3000rpm, starts to misfire, so I am once again stuck with what to do next.
Grizzly - how do you perform a road side compression test? I have been trying to find someone local to me with a rotary compression tester but not having any luck.
First off take the egi fuse out, then remove the top plug of the rear rotor. Turn it over on the key.
You should hear even Pshss noises (take a mental note of the Volume and spacing) when you have done the rear replace plug and do the FT rotor. much the same nice even Pshhh noises.
If you have a Compression problem you will be able to here it as a change in volume or uneven or larger spacing in the Psssh noises.
Its simple but works quite well to gauge if you have a stuck/damaged seal.
Have you tried the diagnostics screen on the PFC? i think its quite basic but will tell you if a sensor is acting up?
I will give the compression test a go tomorrow and see what it sounds like. There are no sensors highlighted on the PFC. Would a sensor show in fault if I had got it plugged in to the wrong connector?
Was also wondering if the car was over or under fuelling could this cause the misfire?
Hi Dave,
Not sure if you got my e-mail but it could be this/
If you have a look you will find that the secondary elec plugs will fit the primary injectors and vice versa so do you have the wiring the wrong way around????
Hi Clive,
Did get the email thanks, im sure the plugs are on the correct injectors as I had to put the connectors onto the engine loom so I marked them up before I disconnected them.
Anymore advice would be greatly appreciated need to try anything I can before I resort to trailering it somewhere!
It could be on default.
The cause could be s number of things,try ressetting the ecu by taking the negative battery terminal off and then foot on brake pedal for 20 seconds,then reconnect and start engine.
Are you able to drive the over 3000rpm on very light throttle?
Regards
Carl
Bet you the vacuum hose has not been reconnected to the Map sensor, sounds like the classic symptoms of it overfuelling and not reving past 3krpm
Carl - I have just tried resetting the ECU like you said, didnt make any difference though (does it work on a Apexi). I can\'t drive the car on light throttle.
It deffinatly not the pipe going to the map sensor as I have replaced the pipe with silicon hose and have tried swapping the map sensor for another one I had and it didn\'t make any difference, unless both map sensors are broke, but the one that is in the car now was working before I did te engine swap.
I was wondering, could it be anything to do with the boost controller, if I had it plumbed in wrong or its not set up correctly, as that has been sat for over a year aswell, not sure if it can loose what was programmed into it? Its a Profec 2 boost controller.
Have just checked my boost controller and it is plumped up the way it says in the instructions, so guess that rules that out.
I also started her up and let her get up to temp, then took her round the block, seems to drive ok in the low rev range is a bit lumpy, but as soon as I tried to accelerate a bit more it would just start to missfire. I have also noticed that if I try and rev the engine quickly it sounds like it is missing.
Just read you have checked for settings are still on 1600cc injectors on the APexi, what is the base fuel pressure?
To check base fuel pressure the vacuum hose off the fpr at idle
Also double check on the commander the boost pressure readings tally up with ones on a boost gauge
The commander still says 1600cc in the settings, just went and checked the base fuel pressure, when I pulled the vac hose off the guage was reading roughly 58psi on the pressure gauge on the FPR, when I connect the vac hose back up it goes down to about 40psi.
ohhhh Houston we may have found your problem!
give me five mins Im gonna recheck what base fuel pressure is suppossed to be at idle
Ok have read the Factory manual with the ignition on but the car not running, fuel pressure should read 36-38psi.
So check it now with the ignition on but the car not running let me know what you have.
woops almost forgot you need a jumper wire on the datalink connector (between FP and GND) when switch the ignition on, pic below
will go and do that now then, give me a few minutes.
right just checked that and it is about 56-58psi, forgot to mention that when I first switched it all on for the first time the FPR was making a hell of a noise, so read up on here about it and ppl said it usually clears itself, which it has done. But was wondering if it could be not working correctly but has just stoped making the noise.
Will that factory satated fuel pressure be the same on a single turbo car?
wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats to high 56psi!!!!!!!
You need to turn the adjustment screw so you decrease the fuel pressure on the same test I gave you to 38psi.
Once you do that drive on light throttle no boost and see if you can go past 3k this time, I wouldnt go into boost as I reckon you will need a remap.
Let me know if that works
Have just checked it and and its about 56-58 psi.
Do you think that the FPR could be broke then as it hasnt been touched since it came off the other car and was working fine on there.
Well you should be able to lower the base pressure with the adjustment screw back to 38psi, see if you can adjust it lower, if not then its fubared.
Were you running the same pump between both cars by the way?
Will have ago adjusting it tomorrow see what happens.
Yea I am running the same fuel pump as in the old car its the Apexi BNR33.
Blitzboy - Thanks for all your help I wouldnt of looked at this.
Right, I have just adjusted the fuel pressure to what you have said and after flooding it once I got it started and it seems to be running a lot better, doesn\'t misfire like crazy when it gets to 3k, I haven\'t been on a very long drive just over a mile as have got a small water leak i need to sort first.
Would you reckonmend swapping the FPR, or should I just get it re-mapped after I have put a few miles on it?
Once again thanks for all the help couldn\'t of done it without your help.
Cool glad we found the problem, well the FSE reg is not a 1:1 ratio type is more of a 1:3 type, I have mapped a few Fds with the FSE and they are a nightmare to really fine tune the boost part of the map as any little change makes a big change to AFR .
I would recommend the Aeromotive regs , they are proven in OZ and US drag circles, they do 3 different types , I would go for the A1000-6 most high powered FDs use them on here, you get them from most Jap performance parts dealers in the UK, I got mine from Reworx, a lot guys get them off KGPARTS in the states .
You defo need a remap what ever you decide, shame you dont live near me could have mapped the T04E easy for ya