OK, had my clutch replaced in the last month (some people may have seen my earlier posts) and i\'ve just replaced the clutch line with a braded one and bled the system (about 4 times in total) but still the clutch pedal feels spongy.
Decided to have a look at the clutch so took off the inspection cover and from what i can see the wedge collar and clutch release collar dont seem to be moving much. Below are some pics with the clutch pedal at the top of it\'s travel, ie no pressure on it:
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/Bobbit79/DSCI0151.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/Bobbit79/DSCI0154.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/Bobbit79/DSCI0147.jpg)
When i got the wife to push the pedal down there was a small amount of movement from the clutch release collar but the clutch did not move from the fly-wheel.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what could cause this? I\'m thinking it could be the master and or slave cylinders? Or could it be a prob when fitted?
Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks
Rob
when you bled the system did you have the front end raised?
i did and got a massive air lock inside the slave cylinder, i just removed it, opened the bleed valve and pushed the cylinder back by hand and ewnt from there.
hth
matt
I\'m presuming your motor is a FD? If so looking at the pics, looks to me that the release bearing is not engaged / locked onto the clutch cover... FD\'s have a pull type clutch and the release bearing has to be located correctly so it can disengage the clutch.
have a look at this thread... (about 2/3 down)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34464
Hope this helps.
The front was rasied when i bled it, so it could be that like.
Sorry, yes the car is a FD
Unfortunately this sounds like the clutch fork inside the bell-housing has broken, something we have now witnessed many times over the years with FD\'s that have aftermarket clutches fitted
Below is a link to show you what your looking for.
http://www.shyauto.com/Downloads/FD0718.pdf
It\'s going to be one of the last 2 post mate!! has the car driven anywhere since the new clutch was fitted?? I know when I did my clutch the locking coller didn\'t sit properly & after about 3-4 presses on the clutch peddle there was a ping & found the thing had released itself! pushed it back in & worked around it by rotating the flywheel a little & pressing against the collar as I went. Never had an issue with it since!
Jono
The car has been driven since the clutch change. But the clutch has felt strange since it was changed, the bite point was at the floor (literally pedal all the way down) and sometimes even with the pedal pressed hard to the floor i could still not select a gear, sometimes it took 4/5 attempts to get into gear
Had the car up on 4 axle stands to bleed it yesterday, even stripped the whole system and bled it bit by bit.
Used my ezeebleed system and also used my mytivac to suck the fluid out from the bleed valve, did the whole pressing of the pedal and tightening of the bleed nipple too, still doesn\'t bloody work.
Tested the slave and i\'m fairly sure it\'s not that, but got one on order so will try that on fri. I\'m beginning to thing the fork may be bent or that is something to do with the release mechanism of the clutch itself.
The hydralic system seems to be working ok, watching the slave move in and out when the pedal is depressed says to me that the system is working but i dont know how much it is supposed to move so cannot be 100% sure yet.
I\'m running out of ideas and things i can test myself so i\'m thinging of taking it to a garage, only prob with that is that i would need a trailer as it cannot be driven.
Damn this is really getting on my tits now, and to top it all i think i flooded the engine yesterday! Took the plugs out to see if that will help and gonna try and get it started later today
Sounds like it\'s got to be the fork if you ask me. It\'s the only reasonable answer. If that\'s cracked and broken, then it won\'t be able to move the clutch as reliably as it should.
I\'m beginning to think so myself nikp, as Clive posted earlier seems to be a likely answer. Looking through the inspection hole i can see the fork moving but it doesn\'t seem to be moving very far, certaintly not enough to release the clutch. Buggrit (millenim hand and shrimp)
Gearbox off! Bugger - i hate that job......almost as much as taking the engine out!!
Had a garage look at the clutch and they recon it\'s the thrust bearing. Spoke to them a couple of times and one guy said it had "blown up" and the 2nd said it looks like it the metal ring that\'s popped off. I know that when it was fitted it came with a new bearing so i\'m doubting it had gone completely and hoping that the ring has popped off.
Is there anyway to ensure, that if it is the ring, it does not pop off again?
how did you get on with this fella?
well, i thought the garage were going to drop out the box and let me know for sure what the prob was, while the garage were waiting for me to get a replacement release bearing. So not very well at the moment as the garage have only looked throught the inspection cover (i\'ve done this loads of time, as you can see from the pics i posted), i\'m gonna order a new bearing and get it delivered to the garage and get them to replace it. But i\'m not happy as the retaining collar/clip should not pop off or break, the design of it means it is either fitted correctly and it works or it is fitted incorrectly and then it pops off, so by this logic i believe the garage is at fault. But the garage recon the clip was faulty and it\'s not their fault. Gonna get them to keep the old clip so i can see for myself what the prob was and take it from there.