Ok here we go. this thread kind of continues from this onne and it\'s first posts http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47871
I found out that the car felt lazy on the secondary boost area. now i fitted an autometer boost gauge and JR intake kit +Forge Twin Blow off\'s today with a friend.
Now it looks llike the first turbo is working very well indeed. hitting 0.7-0.8 bar but then when the revs go to 4500, the engine note changes to something weird. you could say like a tv with white rain (no broadcast) just a little lower tone. same time the boost starts to drop FAST. it can drop as low as 0.1 bar! there was few non filmed runs where it kept maybe like 0.2 bar or 0.3, but still after 4500...the boost comes down! you can even here the engine note change on the vids below!!!!!!!
the upper blow off seems to work 110% but the lower hasn\'t even opened once!!!!!! so there is deffo some ****tttt wrong!
here is some footage from the test run we had few minutes ago. also there is some pictures of the assembly. I WILL get a proper plug for the airpump when i get to a store again. this was made wit the hoses he had that time.
VIDEO LINKS:
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_016.flv (http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_016.flv)
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_017.flv (http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_017.flv)
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_019.flv (http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_019.flv)
PHOTOS
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Intake%20and%20Blow%20Off/100_0558.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Intake%20and%20Blow%20Off/100_0557.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Intake%20and%20Blow%20Off/100_0554.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Intake%20and%20Blow%20Off/100_0553.jpg)
My money is on a split hose fella,
Check all over that area with the non standard bov\'s would be my guess.
I had a similar prob until i found the hose to the front bov was seriously cracked through heat exposure. Also i tried a hks sssq bov taken from a pulsar gtir with a reducer to get it to fit to my fd and that also caused me to lose boost on the second.
Any leak\'s ANYWHERE cause you to lose boost and it mostly shows on the second turbo due to the nature of the sequential system.
It could be plugs or earths but!!!!
My 2p mate check again for leaks.
check the air by pass valve and pipe work (the bov fed from the rear section of the y pipe not the center) and make sure it is fed from the correct place, ie not just any boost/vacume source.
i say this as it sounds like all the boost been made by the second tub is been vented and this port is designed to do that till the change over at 4.5k rpm.
hth
matt
Quote from: arroukcheck the air by pass valve and pipe work (the bov fed from the rear section of the y pipe not the center) and make sure it is fed from the correct place, ie not just any boost/vacume source.
i say this as it sounds like all the boost been made by the second tub is been vented and this port is designed to do that till the change over at 4.5k rpm.
hth
matt
the USA guys mazdarx7 club. are saying that the rear bov is leaking. but they were installed today and they were plug in type intems. i used the exesting vacuum hoses that were fitted to the old plstic ones. i fitted those silicone hoses to replace the old ones that joined them to the turbos (seen in the pics) what if i take the vacuum hose away from the rear bov (charge relief valve as original) and just plug the hose??? so the bov won\'t see any vacuum or boost.
could it be the charge control valve next to it that is not opening at all to hit pressure to the system?
ok i would try 2 things.
1) swop the bov\'s around to proove they are both goo, as if its this there will be no boost on first tub.
2) try swoping the vac pipes for the bov\'s and see if the fault follows, same result as above
if 1 then replace the bov, if 2 then its prob the solenoid in the rats nes.
matt
Quote from: arroukok i would try 2 things.
1) swop the bov\'s around to proove they are both goo, as if its this there will be no boost on first tub.
2) try swoping the vac pipes for the bov\'s and see if the fault follows, same result as above
if 1 then replace the bov, if 2 then its prob the solenoid in the rats nes.
matt
ok i doubt the bovs are faulty, but do you mean that when i change the vacuum hoses, the first turbo shouldn\'t boost at all? meaning the solenoid if jammed.
we are stillthinking about plugging the vacuum to the CRV? will it blow something?
i wouldnt just plug the crv vacume as the boost from the second tub wouldnt be vented and would hold the flap closed (i think, ive been single for 18 mths).
if you swoped the vacume lines for the bov/crv and didnt make any boost the yes i think it is the solenoid.
if you send me an email to arrouk@ntlworld.com ill send you my phone no. that way you can ring me if you get stuck.
just on my way out now so ill mail you in the morning.
matt
This is your friend.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm
Reading through this i would personaly check some of the simple things first (check valves) as they are all easy to get to and you shouldbeable to check they are truely "one way"
just thinking back i had exactly the same symptoms where my engine would boost perfectly fine on 1st but not on 2nd what i did was replace all vacume pipes and check valves under the uim but that didnt fix it, i later looked down the side where the bovs are (underneeth that big black tube) there are more vacume hoses for me these were all brittal and infact had holes in! replaced these and i got my 2nd turbo back.
When I first got my FD I had pretty much the same issue. It turned out that the actuator arm for the flap from the second turbo had come off.
Popped it back on with a new circlip and away went the issue.
Fish
I noticed last night that now the car was like loosing the first turbos boost aswell if i floor it to 4500 and above and then make a quick gear change letting the revs drop below 4500. the boost would come back if I just let the revs really drop and floor it again. won\'t boost with the second turbo at any point tho.
there was a good topic/write somewhere by a guy who had similar problems as i have now. i remember it was some solenoids spring that was too tired to keep up. anyone know this text/topic/write up????
How much will those solenoids usually cost and does someone have good spare ones i could buy?
i haven\'t tested tthe charge control actuator as mentioned here (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm)
But when the car idles and i give it some higher revs, i can see the actuator moving a little. is this normal aswell?
Garentee it is your solenoids fitted at the front of your UIM, they are held on to it by 2 10mm bolts, change these & I would say all your problems will disapear ;)
Jono
Quote from: Jono FD3Garentee it is your solenoids fitted at the front of your UIM, they are held on to it by 2 10mm bolts, change these & I would say all your problems will disapear ;)
Jono
I actually found out that the noise i heard after 4500 dropped like 80% after i re-installed the original CRV. The problem remains tho. this seems to tell me that the CRV is leaking the boost out after 4500 rpm! the noise was just ALOT louder with the forge unit! I\'m king of happy that i installed the Forge BOVS, as now i can thell where the leak is.
Does this sound like some jamming solenoid or something?
in that case it will be the solenoid, do some reserch on the rats nest and re do the lot, or go non seq.
i think carl haywood still does the conversion for a good price and he will reverse it if you dont like it. i found it much nicer to drive and a lot less hassle as i didnt need all the rats nest.
matt
Quote from: arroukin that case it will be the solenoid, do some reserch on the rats nest and re do the lot, or go non seq.
i think carl haywood still does the conversion for a good price and he will reverse it if you dont like it. i found it much nicer to drive and a lot less hassle as i didnt need all the rats nest.
matt
okay. but i live in Finland sooo making any mods by some others is quite alot impossible.
ahh ok bud, sorry i didnt see that.
there is loads of info on the rats nest if you search, but its not to be taken on lightley.
matt
Definatley the 2 solonoids at the front of the plenum mate!! No need to remove the upper intake manifold. All you need to do is undo the strut brace, & unbolt the top pressure tank, then you will see 2 solonoids held to the plenum with 2 10mm bolts, these are the units you need to chainge.
The right hand one (as you look in to the engine bay from the bumper) controles your boost & the left one controles when the second turbo cicks in!
Mine was duff & I was having exactly the same problem..... perfect boost all the way to 4000rpm ish then it would just drop off as te RPM\'s increased!
Attached is a pic of the unit you are looking for! It\'s the 2 square boxes at the top left of the pic:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/SP_A1059.jpg)
Here is where they live when everything is together in the engine bay (Units are marked with white lines):
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/P3240212.jpg)
Jono
actually they control the turbo pre control and waste gate, the problem sounds to me like the charge relief solenoid which i think is on the top of the rats nest at the front, but if one is starting to go the rest aint usually too far behind.
matt
Quote from: arroukactually they control the turbo pre control and waste gate, the problem sounds to me like the charge relief solenoid which i think is on the top of the rats nest at the front, but if one is starting to go the rest aint usually too far behind.
matt
ok so i\'ll be changing all the 3 mentioned above. i would think the charge relief solenoid aswell, as the boost is coming out of the valve itself, even with the Forge one. WGT has them. Used intems but who cares if they work ok. I think i\'m goint to remove the airpump aswell as it\'s there for no reason now. the top hose is plugged and cable is hanging. was it only the blanking plate kit and pulley kit to remove it?