Right guys,
I know I\'ve got my work cut out for me on this one but I got my car on the rollers the other day and i am getting iginition break up at higher revs so to sort this I have got
1. New Plugs
2. 10mm Magnecour Leads
3. Checked the coils
4. HKS twin power.
The next thig to do is re wire my alarm as its currently cut into the coils, the question I have is my alarm is also has a clifford intelistart, how is this wired in, or better still does and one have a wiring diagram for the intelistart and concept 300.
Any help would be good as I\'m plannin on crackin on with this on sunday.
Thanks in advance
Alan
Here you go mate.
Concept 300 user manual http://www.sendspace.com/file/ksb7p0
Wiring diagram http://www.sendspace.com/file/72ysk1
Thank god for that, does anyone know how the intelistart works if I just un wire it from the coils will it still be able to start the car.
Thanks
Alan
I would have thought it would be wired into the wires near the ignition key barrell. If the alarm installers did a good job, you\'ll need to remove the dash to get to the alarm ecu. It makes it much easier because i had to do work on my concept 650.
Remove the dash, ******** thats a pain I can see some of it if I lie upsideown in the footwell. Just want to know if the wiring from the alarm into the coils it part of the remote start or is it just one of the imobaliser circuits
I would say the wiring going into the coils is part of the imobiliser circuit, but thats just my view, im no expert. The intellistart unit will be plugged into the alarm ecu and the ideal being is...you can start your car from your bed and the car is still armed. If it\'s interfeared with, the immobiliser ecu will cut the circuit to the coils and also the ignition. When i added smart windows to my concept 650 i could just about see the unit if i lay on my back with my noggin by the pedals, but jeesus it aint half unconfortable and bloody awkward trying to bend your arms and stuff. It only takes about 20 mins to remove the dash.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7Do you wanna remove the whole dash or just the plastic bits that folks paint? If you want to remove the complete dash it is not too hard.
Remove the vent trims at both ends of the dash where it meets the doors, Remove little square that sits on top of the dash by the center speaker, Remove steering wheel and steering column cowls, lower the steering column as low as poss( 2 bolts at the top, 1 at the bottom..you might get away with leaving the steering wheel on but mine is a momo so it comes off easy anyway), remove complete center console, remove gear stick(3x 10mm bolts), remove both A pillar trims,remove drivers knee pad thing,remove pass side knee pad thing, unplug conectors by ecu, unplug connector that goes to fuse box, get someone to help and pull the dash towards you and unplug the final connector behind the dash.
No need to remove clocks or heater controls. Most plastic trim just pulls away..be careful and dont yank em off. You will see the bolts behind various trim you have removed. Be carefull if the dash dont come out clean..you might have forgot to unplug a connector. You really need someone to help cus it can be awkward,quite heavy and painfull on your lap when your trying to unplug a connector you cant reach..ooh the memorys come flooding back hehe.
Cool, any suggestion at how I start to remove enough dash to get to this as i\'ve never had it out before.
Ta
Alan
Well the first panel you should remove is the panel below the steering wheel with the little vent in held on by 2 screws. This will give you access to the steering column bolts so you can lower it a good 6 inch. 2 bolts near the ignition barrel, 1 bolt at the bottom by the pedals. Whilst your messing down by the pedals, you might as well unplug the little connector from the fusebox. These pics might help out from when i was messnig with mine
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j250/RobbieRx-7/000_1064.jpg)
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j250/RobbieRx-7/000_1065.jpg)
i would fit the bits u have purchased first especially the twin spark and see if u still have a prob
i have the concept 650 and never saw any ignition break up and that was on the rollers for a good 20 plus power runs over a period of time
it was reworx that suggested that it should be done.
have u fitted the hks twin power yet as that should help the spark considerably..i am still unconviced that alarm wiring causes this problem as many thousands of cars have clifford alarms fitted if not hundreds of thousands and all use the same wiring set up and there must be a serious amount of high power cars out there with clifford alarms
mine was also on the reworx rollers lots of times and they never mentioned ignition break up at all??
They did have a look at mine and then they wired the coils directly bypassing the alarm and there was a massive improment.
but sureley direct wiring it u would expect to see a massive improvement anyway as there would be no voltage loss as the wire is taking a direct feed as opposed to natural loss thru the ign syst
i am no expert by any stretch but all clifford alarms will be wired the same way in fact most alarms prob go the same route and i have never heard of any other car or any car in the states where there is a massive rx7 market getting this ignition break up due to the alarms.i would really like to see something conclusive on this myself...has any other tuner experienced this ie pip/carl/ross jaydee/lindop as no one else seems to post up that alarms are a problem
it seems ignition break up occurs when going above standad boost but can be alleviated by ensuring good wiring to the pump and installing a ignition amplifier
I can see your point but I\'d like to get it as good as I can get then improve on it even more with an ignition amp, if it can be imporved by simply re wiring it then re wiring it and fitting an ignition amp must be and even better option surely?
well in a nutshell if u trawl rx7club.com it seems ignition break up at high rpm is a pretty common occurence on modded fds
now no offence to anyone but why have none of the other tuners reported /suggested this total rewire of alarms in a rx7
as far as i am aware nowhere else in the rotary world of tuning has any other tuner said rewire ur alarm urgently and this will cure ignition break up
i thing when altering timing/fuelling/boost u are going to get ignition break up and can minimise it with the ign amplifier but i just cannot get my head round the story that all rx7 have to now get their alarms rewired
these alarms are sold in their hundreds of thousands and nearly every rx7 in the world will have an alarm and yet nowhere on any forum can i find the tuners saying rewire ur alarm
now if this is indeed a problem then surely some of the other tuners could chime in here and either refute or substantiate this claim and we could all then rewire our alarms
however u have to be aware that rewire of ur alarm will invalidate its cat1 status and as such if stolen insurance company will not pay out thats a cast iron certainty
You make a good point, I\'m just thinking that any impovement that could be gained for next to no cost should be done, its a very simple job to remove the wiring from the coils once I have tracked it down, and was clearly proved to me on the dyno that re wiring the coils can improve the ignition.
I doubt all clifford alarms are wired like this on fd\'s. Mine definitly isnt and it was fitted by a pro
what do then normally wire them into, iirc corretly there are 2 imobaliser circuits.
Mine is on the ignition relay and fuel pump
not sure I want to go down the fuel pump route either, I\'m sure i can find somewhere, maybe the starter motor.
There is no harm in cutting the fuel pump, as long as your cutting power to the relay coil only and not splicing into the actual pump feed wires there is no problem. Also there is no point cutting power to the starter motor. All they have to do is bump start the car if they wanna nick it, this happened to me years ago with a car that was fitted with a transponder immobiliser. The easiest thing for you is to wire a relay into the coils if you can see the actual join the alarm fitter did. Job done
Thats not a bad idea, thats not a bad idea at all