I just bought the Dexelia 5W-30 oil for the FD from our local Mazda importer. That was the only grade they actually had. no 10W available. I think it\'s weird. I suppose that\'s still good for the Rex?
Ensure the API spec on the can is same or better than in the handbook. I believe that 5W is actually better than 10W because it holds viscosity down to lower extremes of temperature. I would have thought that 10W 40 was the original spec?? Does 30 make much difference?
Quote from: David NockEnsure the API spec on the can is same or better than in the handbook. I believe that 5W is actually better than 10W because it holds viscosity down to lower extremes of temperature. I would have thought that 10W 40 was the original spec?? Does 30 make much difference?
i think that the 30w is a bit lighter at full temps than the 40w
Quote from: BioMechi think that the 30w is a bit lighter at full temps than the 40w
Yeh, I had a feeling that was the difference. Should be OK for street use I would think.
Standard Castrol GTX every time.
warthog, i take it you change it every 3k?
Quote from: hairyhooverwarthog, i take it you change it every 3k?
Yes mate, or after a good track day. It is so cheap it not worth not doing it.
Due to the power I run I also run Pre-Mix 2/stroke oil in the fuel and thats mineral oil as well. HTH.:wave
Quote from: WarthogYes mate, or after a good track day. It is so cheap it not worth not doing it.
Due to the power I run I also run Pre-Mix 2/stroke oil in the fuel and thats mineral oil as well. HTH.:wave
how much are you guys putting that 2 stroke stuff in?
im using 0-30 just for extra flow rate at low engine /starting temps. i have noticed an oil presure drop which i assume means greater flow = less wear. i do have to worry about petrol dilution now though. solution = change oil more often
Quote from: BioMechhow much are you guys putting that 2 stroke stuff in?
You only need to do this if your oil metering system has been blanked off.
(In a normal REW/RE engine this is the system that feeds engine oil into the rotars to lube them. Thats why you burn oil and top up ever 1000 miles-ish. When you go for big BHP with large porting some tuners block off the system and you then have to run Pre-Mix to do the job via the 2-stroke oil mix in the fuel, if yours is just the normal set-up then you don\'t need to do it.)
Hope that explains it.:wave
I add Millers KB2T pre mix at 250 to 1 (80 ml in 20 litres) as well as using the oil metering pump. That\'s because the 12A is old and I want belt and braces.
Every 3000 miles engine oil changes (mostly GTX), since new.
50,000 miles only but oil pressure is still right at the top even when hot.
Quote from: David NockI add Millers KB2T pre mix at 250 to 1 (80 ml in 20 litres) as well as using the oil metering pump. That\'s because the 12A is old and I want belt and braces.
Every 3000 miles engine oil changes (mostly GTX), since new.
50,000 miles only but oil pressure is still right at the top even when hot.
I noticed that after filling up with the DEXELIA 5W-30, my idle pressure could be as low as 3 bar, but usually sits at 4 bar. depends on the situation. Light driving puts it up to around 5 bar and heavy acceleration makes it jump up to 6-7 ish bar. The water temp gauge seems to sit slightly under half way all the time. these are still the oem gauges as i haven\'t yet had the time to get aftermarket ones.
3 bar is 45 psi, 4 bar is 60 psi. I\'d say that\'s fine.
When I said mine was right at the top, I only meant generally, as opposed to bumping along at the bottom end of the guage - I get about 60psi idling.
How is 10w-60 in these cars?
Quote from: fraser87ukHow is 10w-60 in these cars?
??? Never seen any on sale.
millers 10w-60. I run it in my sti 6. It has a safe use temperature of 140 degrees c.