i am running a non sequential setup and i am on my way down to re worx on tuesday to have a silenced de cat pipe fitted (my existing pipe is non silenced and a bit loud at the mo) and have my map finaly tweeked to sort out the running.
my question is if i get down there and find that i am running a standard downpipe is it worth getting an aftermarket one fitted at the same time????
will it make to much difference to my setup or is it really worth it for the gains it gives you?????
of course it may have an aftermarket one fitted anyway which makes this a moot question but just incase its worth knowing before i get there
:) :) :)
cmon i know some of you will know this :D :D :D
also is there any noise difference with an aftermarket downpipe over standard when running full stainless system with cat back pipe fitted?????
Well when I had mine mapped it had a standard pipe on it and the tuner said if fitting a new pipe it will defo need mapping again to get the benifits.
He said well worth the effort putting one on but its takes 3 hours apprantly and I did not have the time to get mine fitted. noise will be louder but it all depends on what down pipe you fit.
I have a WGT decat, tanabe back box, will be fitting a hks 80mm down so it should be even louder and its bloody loud now.
downpipe is a very useful mod, much better flow - but can be very tricky as i found out a few weeks ago if the bolts are seized and the studs break.....
noise not louder on mine, but i have a large racing beat silenced midpipe which must help
If you have a cat in the down pipe then it will make a lot of difference but by the sound of things it\'s a JDM car?
HKS do a steel down pipe for about £150 which will make a small difference but the pipe sits lower and if your car is lowered the silenced mid pipe may hit speed bumps more readily. Problem is getting the old stock one off and if studs are sheared then it costs more money.
Personally IMHO, I would wait and if you go single in the future put the cash against the new manifold and down pipe.
Keith
update:
i have managed to get a feed stainless downpipe and spent this evening fitting it to the car.
i was surprised the exhaust doesnt seem louder in the lower revs seems deeper though but there is definatley some difference in the higher rev range.
things i found out immediatley were that the turbos seem to spinn up about 500-1000rpm sooner but i definatley need to get the re map done asap as there is a nice big flat spot on full throttle when the turbos really get going. looks like i am gonna be half throttle til the map gets sorted next tues :D :D
Wow, how did you manage to fit it so quick!
Fancy giving me some advice?!
DI can\'t even get the heatshield off :D
Yeah second that SiH
Advice needed cyman you must be a wizard with a spanner:)
Quote from: SiHWow, how did you manage to fit it so quick!
Fancy giving me some advice?!
DI can\'t even get the heatshield off :D
the first thing that helped a lot was having a good selection of tools to call upon. i had 3 different 1/4 ratchets a dumpy,normal lenght and a very long handle one. also had ratchet spanners and normal spanners.
all i did was take the air filters and flexi pipes off back to the turbos to get some space,
took the top 10mm exhaust cover bolt out from above using normal long spanner to free it then the ratchet to undo,the second 10 mm cover bolt is easier to get to from underneath, same again loosened with normal spanner then used ratchet spanner.
from underneath i marked the steering column where it meets the universal joint(draw a single line over top joint of the union onto the column then you can just line it up later) you will see there are 2 bolts you can undo. once marked remove the top bolt only(not the lower one) 12mm completly. then from above look at the steering column and you will see another joint again 12mm loosen this bolt (dont remove) this allows the steering column to slide up and down. go back under the car and from there you should be able to remove the steering column from the top of the uj by sliding the column upwards. this frees up some much needed space.
now you have some space remove the exhaust cover that you already freed (if you are lucky it will come off no probs, i had to man handle it a bit but i got it off with a bit of brute force and ignorance from above) dont worry about damaging it as you arent going to re use it.
now you should be able to get to the 4 nuts to release the downpipe (i was told that these are all 14mm but i had 14mm on the front 2 and 17mm on the back 2. this is where it helps to have the correct tools, there is no fixed rule how to get the nuts out but i took the front 2 and top rear out from above using sockets (very important to have good sockets to free them i would recommend some with the hex shape in them and not the ones with the spline appearance as these are easier to knacker the nut if its a bit solid)to free them and then an assortment of long and short reach sockets,dif ratchets and dif spanners to remove them (not the easiest thing you just have undo bit by bit and you will get there eventually) if yours have never been taken off i would prob give the nuts a soak in either a releasing agent or something like wd 40 give it a good spray and leave it for 10 mins or so to soak in a bit (although this will be awkward) for the last nut (the lower rear one) i removed this from underneath as its very easy to reach from there. note i left my lambda sensor in place and removed it with the downpipe off as it was a bit tight.
undo the downpipe to mid pipe and remove the downpipe by taking it downwards.
on fitting the feed downpipe it is quite a bit wider than the standard one at the top so i had to remove the top 2 studs as they stopped me getting the downpipe into the correct position (easy for me as the front top one came out with the nut and the back one had loosened and came out with my fingers)
put the downpipe in place and put on the lower rear nut so it is on the threads but so the downpie can still move. go back above the car and put the lower front nut in place aswell (keepin it loose) if you can manage it put the studs back in place with your fingers great but if you cant use 2 nuts on the very end of the stud and pinch them together then you can use a socket to tighten the stud back into the manifold with the downpipe in place (note make sure you start the stud in the thread by hand before you use a ratchet to wind them in) when you have pinched the stud back in place you have to line the socket up on the first nut and give the ratchet a quick tap to free the nut then take it off of the stud leaving you with one nut that you can then tighten up.
i did up all the nuts so they just bite then i went over them again and tightened them right up.
then its a case of re joining the mid pipe, refit the steering column into the uj making sure you line up the marks, tighten up the 2nd steering column joint from above,fit the lambda sensor,re fit all your pipe work and filters
run the car up and keep your fingers crossed it doesnt blow :D :D :D
i hope this makes sense :Thumbsup!
si
Absolute fecking legend :Guiness
Will use this over the next few days :)
Just the opne heat shield to whip off then? the smallish one?
Sticky!!!
Maybe there\'s something in the air. Picked up my trust downpipe the other day and will join you guys trting to fit it in one piece.
Is there a need to replace the top gasket or can I get away with using the old one. New one\'s 50 quid!!! :eek:
sih : leave the main downpipe heatsheild on(the one that runs the whole length) when you undo the 2 bolts (not nuts) the small shield at the top comes away (its the one that meets the turbo shield right at the top of the downpipe)
as far as the gasket is concerned i re used the old one and i put a very thin smear of exhaust jointing paste just to be sure (and i mean really thin, smear it on with your finger)
mine doesnt blow at all and i took it for a longish run today and it definatley pulls better from lower revs
note : because this is very fiddly it took me about 2 1/2 hours to do,if you have just driven dont forget to allow some time for your exhaust to cool down before you attempt this it took mine an hour to cool before i could get my hands in there
glad this is of some help
:Giggle :Giggle
Good write up cyman, got mine to do too before mapping, did you use a pit or jacks?
cheers
Quote from: ro284Good write up cyman, got mine to do too before mapping, did you use a pit or jacks?
cheers
i am very lucky that i have a friend with a garage and a 2 poster car lift which made my life easier but there isnt anything you couldnt do on the ground just get it as high as you can at the front and get decent axle stands under so you have plenty of room to move safely.
:chat :chat
Car ramps work a treat.No faffing around with jacks and stands Only cost £20 and ideal for oil changes or getting deep under the front of the car. Talking of axle stands, aldi are selling a nice pair with wheel chocks for £6
Quote from: RobbieRX-7Car ramps work a treat.No faffing around with jacks and stands Only cost £20 and ideal for oil changes or getting deep under the front of the car. Talking of axle stands, aldi are selling a nice pair with wheel chocks for £6
the reason i like axle stands when working at the front of the car is that you can turn the wheels if you need to. which you def need to be able to do with this to line up the steering column so its easy to undo the 12mm bolts.