I\'m thinking of buying a HKS FCON ECU for my TII. It is pre mapped for the set up im running at the moment but I would like to get the map checked/altered if need be. Is this something that WGT or lindop could do or does it have to be a more HKS specialist?
I think any after market ecu has to be mapped for you own application I could be wrong someone smarter will be right along to give the correct answer:Hammer
WGT could make sure your not running to lean or rich, but best bet would be to take it to re:worx, as they\'d be able to adjust it if it was out.
your probably best giving them a call and asking them if they can do it and what experience they have of the hks ecu. Ive heard reworx have done a few but not sure about anyone else
Only few HKS Fcon authorised dealer in country and I dont think any rx7 specailist are one of them...... No one will able to tune it without the program and support.
Best bet to get a power fc, works just as well and can be tuned almost eveywhere.... half the cost as well, last time I check to map a Fcon is £1k just for mapping alone.
REWORX are the only rotary specialists that are authorised to map the HKS F-CON, but they will only be able to map it if you are running the F-CON V Pro (Gold Version ECU).
I see. Think I\'ll just leave it then. I\'m not gonna put that sort of money into it and its a bit of a trek to RE-WORX from here. I need to get something that can be fiddled with near by really.
I have got a GCC to go with my F-con that allows you to adjust the fuel, i am also having a fuel/air gauge so that at least i can see if its running lean.
My ECU was set up with mild mods so i\'m going to be happy enough with the set up once finished and its similar to the setup within the ECU. Its still cheaper than a Apexi as to buy everything to get it setup is very close to £600 and more if you allow the £300 on top for a map session compared to a drop in HKS for under £100. Depends on your budget.
I am running a Knightsports ECU in the white cab and as long as i keep putting 100 Ron in it then it runs fine,best £60 I ever spent. You can still achieve ther same goal cheaply but as long as you have other safe guards such as a FCD,boost controller,fuel/air gauge then it will be fine.
adereed - what mods do you have mate?? 90% of us are running an apexi power fc as they are very good, cheap and easy to map. All the tuners on here can map it or know someone who can. They will support nearly all mods and unless you are running an extreme setup with big power it iwll do the job.
Just looked up what you will need and the prices
Apexi ECU £310 2nd hand (no hand controller)
Harness Kit $345 from Banzai inc shipping(comes with sensors etc)
FC coil pack with ignitor (you have to modify this) £30
Banzai supply a base map to your requirements but you will have to get it tuned anyway and this will be £200-300 on average.
Its easy for the FD lot as the Apexi is plug and play, with the FC theres a lot more to it but granted in the long run better for the availability of tuners throughout the UK.
i have read up many times about fitting the power FC - it does seem a GREAT bit of kit
at one point i was even thinking of making the wiring harness using an old FC ecu for the plugs and getting the loom ECU end off a FD from someone who was scrapping one
but i thought better of it ! LOL :D
if you want a CHEAP way of adding more fuel - then you can use the Apexi SAFC - this will support a set of 720\'s in the secondaries and you can alter the fuel curve thru 500RPM increments
i have one of these aswell - just never fitted it !!
Quoteadereed - what mods do you have mate?? 90% of us are running an apexi power fc as they are very good, cheap and easy to map. All the tuners on here can map it or know someone who can. They will support nearly all mods and unless you are running an extreme setup with big power it iwll do the job.
3" turbo back exhaust, HKS Intake filter (mushroom style), HKS SSQV BOV, Fuel cut defender. I\'ve also got a HKS EVC2 boost controller to fit but its not on at the moment. The Apexi would be the way to go if I could afford it I know. They are just so expensive and are like rocking horse s**t for the FC. I\'ve put this on the back burner for now as im skint after buying these:Thumbs-up (Cheers Paul)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47284
I think I might leave the mods for a bit after this and concentrate on getting the car looking more like a new car rather than a 18+ year old. If anyone knows someone who is good at fixing minor rust spots then let me know.
You have virtually the same setup as mine and at the moment I am on a stock ECU and have not leaned at all according to the fuel/air lambda. You are more than willing to try an ECU that I have chipped for these mods or buy the chip and do it yourself. Once I have my FMIC then this will be a different matter and then I shall fit my F-con.
Your budget will decide which way you go though,
What is this chip? i\'ve always been a bit cautious about these. Is it safe to use? I presume its just a mod to the stock ECU?
thats the one - a chap on ebay sells them ( prob the same spec as my knighsport one )
all you do is open the ECU , get someone to solder in a chip holder and drop it in .. nice and simple :D
Stu
Yeah I get that bit. But what does it tell the ECU to do in regards to the fueling etc and is it really safe to use this method rather than some experienced ECU manufacturer?
its a lot cheaper !!
it will have a remapped fuel curve to support the upped boost levels
image that your ecu is mapped perfect for .5bar of boost ( stock ECU ) now picture this one having a map for .9 bar of boost
im not sure how to explain it to be honest
it doesnt tell the ECU anything - it becomes the ECU :D
Quote from: pdtaylor18and have not leaned at all according to the fuel/air lambda.
What device are you using to determine this? unless its a wide band o2 sensor you have no idea. The normal sensors that come with cheap \'air/fuel\' gauges are pointless on a rotary.
OK. I\'ve looked into the Ebay chips but im getting conflicting answers. In the ad on Ebay it says boost levels of up to 14.5psi. But when I ask the guy what the chip is mapped at he says
QuoteHi,
The ECU doesnt control the boost, it is mechanically controlled by pressure activating a wastegate therefore fitting the chip alone will not increase the boost. To control the boost you would need to fit a bleed valve or boost controller, then you will be able to run anything up to 14.5psi.
Regards
So am I right in thinking that this thing is just telling the ECU to add more fuel?
STU what you said before made way more sense than what this guy is saying. Maybe im just getting hold of the sh**y end of the stick or something.
Quote from: 20B_boyWhat device are you using to determine this? unless its a wide band o2 sensor you have no idea. The normal sensors that come with cheap \'air/fuel\' gauges are pointless on a rotary.
Of course i\'m using a wide band lambda sensor !!! What gave you the idea that i use cheap crap ??? because we have FC\'s does not mean we are the poor end of the line. Shame on you for even suggesting that.
The chipped ECU\'s do adjust the whole of the fuel curve, they also get rid of the speed limit, ability to raise the boost levels with a boost controller and get rid of the fuel cut. Most you can use on a stock engine, i did and had great results but it did overfuel at times. You need some mods to make best affect on these. The chap does belong to this forum so maybe he can explain what he does and to what levels its based on. All i\'m saying that its a cheap alternative and certainly better than a stock ECU if you are running any sort of mods, especially de-cat, exhaust and intake.
This is the info that came with one i picked up from Japan.
JDM Mecha Gozira Ecu
Removd from a 1990 FC3S
N374 Ecu 1989 to 1991 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Aftermarket Exhaust
Aftermarket Intake Filter
Stock or Aftermarket Intercooler
Boost UP
1、Eliminate 180km top speed limiter
2、Shift rev limiter timing
3、Eliminate boost limiter
4、Modification of fuel correction map and Ignition map
5、Change quorum (k)
6、Change lattice of the map (RPM, injection time)
7、Modify every correction points
14.5 psi - so thats just a touch over 1 bar
hummmm i dont see why you need a boost controller to UP the boost ??
running the chip with your mods should see you are .9 bar anyways - so im a little confused at what he is saying ???
hummm he is right to a certain extent - that the ecu doesnt control the boost - but as soon as you put a straight thru exhaust on - that alters the boost as it all breathes easier - hence you need a FCD - this fools the car into not cutting fuel to the back rotor ( i think )
Quote from: pdtaylor18Of course i\'m using a wide band lambda sensor !!! What gave you the idea that i use cheap crap ??? because we have FC\'s does not mean we are the poor end of the line. Shame on you for even suggesting that.
1) I didnt \'get the idea that you use cheap crap\' - I merely asked in case you might not have been aware of the inadequacies of narrow band sensors, my bad for giving a **** about u risking a motor eh? :mad:
2) Again I didnt suggest anything, if you (I emphasise \'you\') want to \'blame\' some one for tagging FC owners as cheap skates point at "I\'ll buy that for a $"-Grinder :rollin
Shame on me for nothing, glad to be of help (I\'ll make sure not to again ;-)) :Hammer
im not cheap matey - i just dont like spending money
Quoteim not cheap matey - i just dont like spending money
But you should present Bargin Hunt or whatever the program is called not that Dickinson bloke!
Quoterunning the chip with your mods should see you are .9 bar anyways - so im a little confused at what he is saying ???
Your not the only one who\'s confused. I just wanted to know what boost level I would be running with the chip without a boost controller. I would have though if your selling a product like that you would know the answer to something ilke that. The last thing I want to do is plug it in only for it to break something cause of something silly.
With a 3" turbo baqck exhaust, no boost controller and an FCD/chipped ECU the boost can spike as high as 1.2bar, but you would normally see around 0.8-1bar in the first 3 gears, sustaining 1bar+ in 4th and 5th. The Turbo wont last long at more than 1bar and is a long way outside of its range at that point. Get it set to no more than 1bar :yes
Quote from: 20B_boy1) I didnt \'get the idea that you use cheap crap\' - I merely asked in case you might not have been aware of the inadequacies of narrow band sensors, my bad for giving a **** about u risking a motor eh? :mad:
2) Again I didnt suggest anything, if you (I emphasise \'you\') want to \'blame\' some one for tagging FC owners as cheap skates point at "I\'ll buy that for a $"-Grinder :rollin
Shame on me for nothing, glad to be of help (I\'ll make sure not to again ;-)) :Hammer
Think we both might have had a spat when there no need, sorry if i came over wrong or misinterepted your statement. We(I) always need to get the feedback from people like yourself and its what the club needs, I\'m not however going to give information out thats only partially accurate. We all value our engines and I for one would not give out info that would cause an engine to go pop. I merely stated that in this case I was monitoring the lean/ fuel air mixture with my lambda sensor and did not notice anything lean with my current setup. I should have stated that i was using a wide band sensor as I assumed that this was a given bit of knowledge.