Had a mate of mine do the clutch in the FD yesterday, not too bad a job he said as it took less than 4 hours, but bringing it back put his foot down a bit after driving it for 15 mile and had a big backfire and its now missing like hell.
Ive been up to see it and noticed the petrol light is on so ive put more juice in it and had it running for a while but still no better. Am i right in thinking he has sucked a load of **** through it?
Todays plan is change the plugs as they dont look the best and put some fuel/injector treatment through it.
Is this the most likely problem or is it possible doing the clutch he has disturbed something electrical. Ive had a quick look underneath and everything appears to be connected.
I\'m thinking its likely to be fuel related but this may just be a coincidence
how rough does it sound? if you think it could be electrical have a look into reading the ecu fault codes (this will only cover sensors and some components though) :Thumbs-up there are destructions on how to do this in the tech sticki section.
Sounds like it\'s gone pop :(
I hope not, but it might be rebuild time :(
not a expert but if running lumpy and boost guage is fluttering at idle then i would say a lost tip
possible low on fuel gave it beans fuel supply lost ran lean and popped a tip but this is only a keyboard diagnosis and on a new clutch should havwe been bedding it in not giving it welly imho
This is my fear and i only rebuilt it 3K ago, He did say it was just as he came onto boost so would make sense.
I was thinking it may of done a tip but will take a look at the boost guage later. Its not idling too bad but as soon as you show it any rev its missing like hell. I will also check the fault codes.
This is where some smart ass says why didnt you put a clutch at the same time as the motor.
:(
Thats called Limp Mode.
Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and holding the brake pedal down to drain any existing power. Then reconnect. Have a try again.... let me know how it goes... if not pull the codes from diag.
Ive experienced limp mode before and this is definately different. In limp mode it wont rev past 2.5 or 3K but this does and is missing. During limp mode isnt the rev still smooth. I will try it though later tonight.
like whats been said before sounds like you have done a tip, giving it WOT on a low fuel tank is a no no with these cars.
Double check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor is connected and not split
I checked the hose was connected to the map sensor last night although i didnt check it wasnt split. Will check this tonight also.
Ive found out how to check if its a tip so will try this and go from there.
I wasnt driving it and i think this is the problem, i dont boot it on low fuel unfortunately i cant speak for other people.
Ive had another chat with the guy who was driving it and apparently the heqt light came on too at the same time, the big read one with the words heat on. This is the cat one right?
Does this shed anymore light on the situation? It had a good used Cat installed 2K ago.
From reading previous posts does this mean that there was unburnt fuel igniting?
does the car have an apexi ecu or standard ecu..the heat light is also used to detect knock on the apexi..not sure on a standard ecu..i think u def may have lost a tip or cracked it
Its a standard ECU running non-sequential with exhaust and filter. Was a job to tell what it was boosting to due to the clutch being completely shot so was given explicit instructions not to boost it past 0.9 bar, these instructions were also relayed to the person who was driving it.
I\'m thinking there is a common theme here of tip.
I\'m sorry but if my mate came to me saying that happened to my car with him driving I would be seriously p***ed off and be asking him to cough up the cost of what unfortunately looks like a rebuild :(
And as said few posts above, with a brand new clutch should have been bedding it in & not giving it some! :(
feel for you man but the nob who hammered your car should get the bill.. is the engine still under warrenty tho?
sounds exactly the same as mine mate, and its not long blown a rotor tip! do you find it struggles at low revs to pick up but clears past 3-4k? i hope you find its only something basic, but you may need to prepare for the worst man
What state is the fuel filter in ?? Did you change it when you did the rebuild ?
Just a daft thought (of which i have many) could the vac sensor popped off under boost ? Would run very lumpy if all its seeing is atmosphere ?
How can you run non sequential on more boost, an air filter and exhaust on a stock ecu. Seriously asking for trouble.
Shaun
is the max safe boost on twins not 0.9 bar?
0.9 BAR on Stock ECU!!!!!!
0.7 BAR is the limit on stock ECU, no wonder it has popped, 0.75 BAR is the absolute limit that the stock ECU can supply the correct fuel and with the air filter and exhaust the limit is even lower boost level like 0.65.
Who built the engone and said 0.9 BAR was safe on a stock ECU?
Hi Dean,
Give me a call.
Regards
Carl
Quote from: BlitzBoy0.9 BAR on Stock ECU!!!!!!
0.7 BAR is the limit on stock ECU, no wonder it has popped, 0.75 BAR is the absolute limit that the stock ECU can supply the correct fuel and with the air filter and exhaust the limit is even lower boost level like 0.65.
Who built the engone and said 0.9 BAR was safe on a stock ECU?
Hi Mark,
I rebuilt the engine after Dean had already rebuilt it and it did not run quite right, with supplied parts from Dean.
We did not suggest to Dean that it would be ok to run 0.9 bar boost on a stock ecu. Due to the clutch slippage it was not possible to see what boost the car was making after it was run in,so when we told Dean that the car needed a new clutch(After already suggesting that during the build) we then said that after he fitted the clutch that we should check out the car further to see what boost it was running,obviously Deans clutch fitter has been driving the car hard when he shouldn\'t have.
Regards
Carl
sounds like a case of "sue the clutch fitter"!!!! and tip going to me too. soory bud
slightly off topic. does any of the ecu manufacturers do a valet mode tostop going past 3k or something
no worries Carl I didnt think it could be right that someone suggested it was safe at 0.9 BAR. Looks like Dean should be giving the clutch fitter an earful for ragging it when its supposed to running in
Quote from: BlitzBoyno worries Carl I didnt think it could be right that someone suggested it was safe at 0.9 BAR. Looks like Dean should be giving the clutch fitter an earful for ragging it when its supposed to running in
No probs Mark,
Dean had actually already run the engine in,but after bringing it back to us for a few other jobs and checkover,we were trying to see how she was running,but couldn\'t cos of the clutch slip.
Only after clutch was replaced would it have been possible to check boost level properly.
We have suggested that with a power FC 0.9 to 1 bar would have been fine.
Regards
Carl
well after seeing it`s down to the clutch fitter, was it done at a proper garage or a diy home effort? i`v have bent him in 2 with a crowbar by now if he ragged the crap out of my car when it was in for work... no need for it.. really hope you can get this sorted bud..
Carl i will give you a call later today.
shaunwil Fuel filter was not changed so this is possible
It was mate of mine i grew up with who has worked on almost all my cars over the years including quite a few high performance ones. He should really have known better. He runss a garage but did it after hours.
Iam pretty sure this car has some kind of gypsy curse on it.
Quote from: deanflowersIt was mate of mine i grew up with who has worked on almost all my cars over the years including quite a few high performance ones. He should really have known better. He runss a garage but did it after hours.
But this would mean he should have some kind of insurance against this thing right? So new motor would all be paid for by him / insurance?
Hope it\'s not a tip tho\'!
Not really as he doesn\'t own the garage, just runs it and it wasnt exactly done through the books.
So you have a motor that due to a slipping clutch has never seen full boost, you don\'t know what boost it will pull.
You have a new clutch fitted by your friend, he gives it some beans and bang it goes pop.
To be fair to him, if he was not aware of the situation and if you failed to instruct him NOT to give it any beans, then you are to blame in my eyes...
If it were my car, I\'d have told him to be really gentle with her. ?? ?? ?? ??
There are a million and one ways that could have caused it but having the Stock ECU on the mods you had was the issue. It will have run lean because the flow in and out was not as restrictive.
Shaun
If it was my car i\'d have told him not to drive it, it\'s a difficult one really i don\'t think you can place full blame on the mechanic although he was a bit daft to take it for a joy ride.
Good luck with the fix :)
The clutch wasnt slipping from the word go so it had seen over 1,000 miles of good boost figures.
I havn\'t at any point said he is to blame for for giving it boost, i have said i dont think it was a good idea giving it boost when it was that low on juice though. He has driven it before and been out in it many times so i dont think he would have driven it any different to how i would have, It more than likely would have done the same if i had collected it to be fair.
Ive also lent cars off him many times some being a fair amount faster than this one. He is insisting that it went just as it came onto boost but i cant prove him wrong or correct of course.
The gerneral opinion of the clutch was it didnt look too bad, the engine had been out of the car 13,000 miles beforehand and we were not sure if it had got a new clutch then, so thought it may be okay. Would running this amount of boost kill off a standard clutch very quickly?
Ive done a basic test on the rear rotor and that seems to be giving even pulses, I couldnt get to the front plug last night so will do this on the weekend to check the front rotor.
The issue iam going to have is i could be leaving the country in the next month or so and aint really going to have the time or money for a rebuild so does anybody have an idea how much this car would be worth showing possible tip damage. I know of a couple of people interested but not how much it would be worth
The link to the original for sale thread is here:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46126
Dropped a tip on the front rotor :(
Real sorry to hear that buddy.
definitely the cause would be running good boost on stock ecu :(
Chin up, sure it will get sorted
Ive spoken to carl so hoping to find out how its boosting to high and what can be done to lower it in order to prevent it re-occurring without the added expense of an ECU.
I cannot justify spending the £700 on the ecu with mapping for a car iam having to sell. I personally dont think the car would be worth £700 extra and he has other customers running non-sequential with stock ecu so it must be possible to achieve.
Hopefully the back rotor will show some good compression results and it will only require a partial strip down.
good luck with that, keep us posted
does the car have a boost controller, and was it historically working properly. If so, your mate may have had a little fiddle with it ?
No boost controller, he isn\'t the type to do that to be honest. He is a tidy kind of bloke.