Ive just rebuilt my engine (FD), However Ive been havin problems getting it started. I have managed to get it started, but it will only start with the use of the accelerator, I can keep it going so long as I hold the revs on the accelerator (about 1000revs), but when I let off the car dies.
Anyway before the battery went flat I tinkered with some of the vacuum hoses and removed a couple of kinks that I had found, and when everything was back together I managed to get it started, again with the use of the accelerator, but when I let off and got out of the car the car kept going without me holding the revs. Thinking that was problem solved I turned off the engine to put a few little bits (just plastic covers) back on, before moving it out of the garage.
I then tried to start it again, and once again used the accelerator to get it going, however as before when I let off the accelerator once again the engine cut out, I couldn\'t get it started again after that cos of a flat battery. But obviously there is a problem somewhere, as it won\'t stay running. Any ideas/advice is much appreciated.
im sure others will be able to pin point this one as im still new to rotarys but have you made sure all the connecters are on under the UIM as there is a few. also are you still using the double throttle because i think that, also will affect cold idle.
probably totally off the mark but thought id try and help lol
Yep all plugs are plugged in
make sure the cold idle valve is connected (white plug to the UIM), you may need to adjust the idle scew (located where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body
I have adjusted both the cold start screw on the side of the throttle body and the air bleed screw just beneath the elbow, but it still will not start without the use of the accelerator. Ive kept the screws in the position where the car nearly starts without any accelerator, as it nearly chokes into life, but it will only start when I use the accelerator no matter how I adjust them.
I take it everything that gone back on is what came off so hopefully you should have no need to adjust anything. Double check the throttle position, make sure butterflies open and shut as they should. If you have a Apexi then make sure everything is working sensor wise from the engine and if its a standard one then see if there are any error codes. try getting the engine at normal temps and see if it does it, you will want to try and isolate if its a cold start problem or all the time. Sounds more like a vacuum hose of some sort, it only takes one to have a bit of a leak and it can have you chasing yer tail for a long time.
Butterflys open and shut fine, all the vacuum hoses are reasonably new, I replaced them all with silicone, and ran the car for about 4000 miles before my water seals failed.
Get it started and drive it 50 miles or so.This will help loads,especially if you have reused the rotor housings.
Cheers Tim,
Just out of interest, in what way is driving it likely to help? Will try this anyway I was just interested. And yeah rotor housings were reused.
I\'m sure I will be back on the phone to you guys should I still need help after.
I\'m just a bit nervous in case I take it out, and it dies on me then I cannot get it started again, whilst I\'m out.
Just dont go too far,round the block a few times and get everything bedded in, dont be too scared to give a a few good blasts but limit it to under 4000 revs. With old housings and new seals it needs to all find its place. Should get better compression as well which may be what Tim is trying to say.
Right I\'m nearly sorted, I can now get it to idle turned out I had got a block in a pipe from the acv valve, however now the coolant buzzer is going off constantly so I assume I have an air-lock in the system, how do I get rid of this?
Try pulling the hose off the back of the throttle body and filling the engine till the coolant poors out of this hose, the theory is that its the highest point on the car so the air should rise and be pushed out of it with the extra coolant. pop the hose back on the moment you see coolant come out of it. hopefuly that will be enough for the AST to take care of the rest.
it also could be a duff / un connected sensor?
When i drained my coolant i had a terrible time trying to get all the air out but eventually it all came out. What i do is keep the filler cap off and keep it running, squeezing the top and bottom hoses and really getting the water circulating, once it starts to get too hot i close off the cap and let the system pressurise. such a shame they never incorporated a bleed nipple on the top somewhere as well as the AST.
these are great cos you can bleed any ait off when its hot without scolding yourself.
Just as I thought everything was getting better, I\'m back to square one. I got the car started this morning so that I could take it out as was suggested, anyway I pulled the car out of the garage and got out of the car to close the garage up then the car started to hesitate then cut out completely.
I\'ve tried to get it started again and no matter what I do I now cannot get the car started at all. I\'ve had the plugs out to dry them and have de-flooded the car but I just cannot get it to start now
are they the same plugs used to start the fresh engine? you should always use an old set of plugs to start a new engine as all the oil and gunk kills them, once its been upto temperature, then stick your new ones in, especially if you didnt get to take it for a good drive. Put new plugs in and try again.
The reason Tim says to drive it is because compressions gets better. With low compression it will not like to idle.
i had similar problems when i went to non-seq, turns out it was the sensor (facing the engine top right) that conects to the nipple on the bck of the uim, i forgot to reattach the hose :S.. hope u get it sorted bud.
Yeah I used my old plugs, didn\'t even think about getting new ones cos they had only done a couple of thousand miles if that.
All the plugs and vacuum pipes seem to be on correctly.
It\'s just with having it started and now not being able to start it, I\'m starting to pull my hair out, I\'m even getting the odd thought in the back of my mind, is it really all worth this hassle.
as soon as u take it out an shes running sweet you`l think it`s all worth it :)
Stick with it bud im sure you\'ll crack it! Take a step back for a moment check over the basics once again make sure you have everything connected and all the key elements for the engine to run, Oh and how long has the petrol been standing in the tank? i\'ve heard of problems when people have had them stored for months.:Thumbs-up
I had problems starting mine after a rebuild too, apart from have fuel feed wrong, corrected that but still would not start, but as said about plugs i had new ones in which i had in and out cleaning them but made no difference, so in desperation put the old ones back, burst into life and ran fine, worth a go
opps just seen you done that, but if you started it up on those, could be same problem as all the muck will be in them,
put new plugs in, when it runs, its a very satifying feeling.
Well it\'s running now (new set of plugs), Ive taken it out and driven it and compression is getting better and better.
I\'d just like to thank everyone for their advice and/or encouragement, and wanted to say thanks once again to Tim and the guys at Rx Motors, I can imagine it getting pretty tedious trying to give people advice over the phone (especially with me on the other end).
I\'m not quite happy yet, I just thought I\'d mention a couple of other things to see if you have any ideas. Ive noticed since driving it that the car seems to be a fair bit quieter (other people have even mentioned this), why would this be.
The other couple of things may be related, Also I cannot start the car yet without using the throttle, and also when idling (haven\'t adjusted this yet so it\'s still a bit high) the revs have dropped down to a point where the car nearly stalls (it doesn\'t actually stall though) and then rises back up and stays at the highish idling point. Is this likely to improve the more I drive it/ build up compression?
when u first started the car how long did u let it run? from the rebuild dvd they say once started not to turn it off for a set time to allow everything to settle in place n burn off all the excess oils. sealent ect..
Maybe you have a big airleak,that can easily cause difficult starting probs.
When you next get it running get a piece of hose to use as a stethascope and listen for loud whistling,be care ful not get the hose into a belt area!
Regards
Carl
Quote from: interloper393when u first started the car how long did u let it run? from the rebuild dvd they say once started not to turn it off for a set time to allow everything to settle in place n burn off all the excess oils. sealent ect..
I let it run for a fair while, I made sure the smoke had cleared and I waited for the engine coolant to get up to temperature, before I took it out.
Quote from: CarlMaybe you have a big airleak,that can easily cause difficult starting probs.
When you next get it running get a piece of hose to use as a stethascope and listen for loud whistling,be care ful not get the hose into a belt area!
Regards
Carl
I will do this next time I get a chance Carl, would a small or several small air leaks in the rats nest(although I don\'t think there is any) also cause this?
Quote from: SidzrxI will do this next time I get a chance Carl, would a small or several small air leaks in the rats nest(although I don\'t think there is any) also cause this?
Yes they could.
Regards
Carl
Right, Ive done as Carl has said and got the engine running and listened for air leaks with a piece of hose and I cannot hear any leaks from the engine at all.
Ive been thinking back about every little thing when putting the engine together and have had a thought on the problem, but I\'m not sure whether or not it could cause the problem of not being able to start the car without using the accelerator.
Now when putting the engine back together, and more specifically putting the turbo\'s in place I had two different Turbo control Actuators (The one connected to the baffle on the manifold for the turbo), as I had one spare. I did notice that one of the actuators would appeared to have had less thread on the rod of the actuator than the other, so could have been tampered with. Whereas the other would have been inthe same position that it was in when I unclipped it from the manifold. Trouble is I didn\'t know which one was which (Utter stupidity I know) when I put it back together, so I took a guess.
I have now been wondering, if I put the wrong one back on the car, and the actuator held the baffle in the manifold in the wrong position, would this cause the problem of not being able to start the car without the accelerator or is it just me being stupid?