Hey.
Car is losing water. If I drive normally for about 10 miles with a bit of boost here and there it will take about half to a litre afterwards. Driving easy in vacuum all the time and it doesn\'t seem to lose much at all.
Also - there\'s oil under the rad cap.
I don\'t see any other economical path than a bottle of bars leaks.
humm you shouldnt have water under the oil cap - sounds like a water seal failure ( or the beginning of it )
drop Brett a PM about it - he might have a solution for you
make sure its not the turbo.
care to expand pete - im always learning about these things - so dont want to give out bad advice !
Try some K seal in the coolant. Partco sell it.
You can run it all the time and is often able to cure an early problem with water seal failure.It can last a long time too.
Of course it won\'t fix a really bad problem but is worth it to tide you over until you can afford a real fix.
Regards
Carl
right I\'ll try some K-Seal.
I wonder if this is anything to do with a recent oil change with 10W40 semi-synth? The oil pressure is sitting slightly low I think according to another post I read on here.
I think mine\'s around 30/40 cruising.
K-seal is really good stuff but remember that there is two versions one whereby you have to drain the entire coolant as it does not mix with antifreeze and the other is safe. If you buy the one that does not mix then it will just form a load of goo in your waterways and will just bung it up.
I did mention the turbo earlier as they are water cooled and therefore there might be a chance of it leaking internally. Just something not to miss out but you will see signs at the exhaust side with white smoke and you might even smell it.
I read about the one not compatible with anti-freeze but they say on the site that they only keep this old version going because of it\'s reputation.
I\'ve ordered some anyway and so far on line I only see people saying "I would never use anything like this" and "It won\'t work" which "is, like, just their opinion man".
This looks good so fingers crossed:
http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showpost.php?p=1177913&postcount=16
After the K-Seal I\'m still losing water but I have a hunch it\'s not as bad.
I know it should work after 1-3 mins but after the third run up and down the M\'way the buzzer didn\'t come on.
Should\'ve ordered two bottles in the first place.
Another one on the way and that is actually the last chance saloon.
Hi All
Bottles of K-seal are available for all rotary models via MRP
See here for more details
http://www.mazdarotaryparts.com/b-fc-c003-k-seal-water-sealerb-1231-p.asp
cheers - it\'s £9.40 inc from Kalimex though :3Confused
K-seal should not be classed as a permanent fix though, it could last for years but at least it will get you going until you can get another engine or rebuild.
oh this car will not be getting a rebuild - will be busted into bits or sold for repair.
Best bits on it are stainless cans, brand new headlights and four new tyres...
sad to hear :(
its a sad state of affairs when you can buy a FC cheaper than you can rebuild it
thats why most get broken when the blow up
Eddie Doyle quoted â,¬2,900 to rebuild. Car cost £300.
But it\'s not dead yet! Second bottle of K-Seal arrived today so since the first seems to have made an improvement (no more oil under the rad cap) it\'s worth another go.
Thing is when I got this car that coolant level buzzer used to go off all the time, but then it went away again, without any fix...
I know what you mean about price of a good FC - I\'m currently stuck with a 98 Honda Legend and a 94 Honda Accord Coupé. Both of those could pay for a good FC.
no dice. Coolant level buzzer is coming on after about 6 easy driving miles, every time.
I don\'t see oil in the coolant any more which is good, but water is going somewhere.
When the buzzer is on, a rev to the line in idle makes it go off temporarily but I don\'t think that\'s anything more than water sloshing around in the rad after a shove.
There doesn\'t seem to be loads of white smoke pouring out of it when driving, so it could be a hose. The last money I think I\'ll spend on this is some universal rad hoses. Cheaper then OEMs and possibly useful down the line.
Check for a split hose, chances are its p-ing out under pressure. (I had a similar problem on an EGI a few years back.)
Get it refilled with water, then get someone to rev it while you stand watching. (Bonnet up, don\'t stand too close!)
Out of interest, have you seen any sign of water marks in the engine bay?
Wouldn\'t it be nice if the problem was a piece of hose and not "the engine" :>
Haven\'t seen water marks no, although I haven\'t really looked. Next dry day I\'ll get some paper down underneath it.
Is it hard to replace both rad hoses?
dod
Not really, usualy rules apply! (Be prepared for skinned knuckles etc)
Can be a pain to get the air out of the system afterwards though, so be prepared to spend some time fiddling.
:wave
Read about it before on here, you get a dye to put in the coolant which glows under UV so you can easially see where the water is coming from? Not sure how much this would cost to have done or where would do it. Just something to think about?
Wheres the fun in that? :p :Giggle
Quote from: BrettWheres the fun in that? :p :Giggle
Dam Brett, you enjoy these things! :spank :Giggle
I\'ve lost so much blood and important bits of skin to the FC\'s over the years that I\'m pretty certain I can find my away around one by feel now - merely being scalded by high pressure steam from a split hose doesnt register any more! :rollin
You ard bar steward! :Laugh
LMAO - All Rx7\'s are vampires :yes