Bit confused again! :spank I get what seems to be an intermittant coolant light & buzzer coming on in the FD. Coolant levels have remained at full. I have done a champagne test and am not getting hard water pipes when fully warm, so water seals must also be ok.
It was suggested to me to check that the wire from the sensor was not damaged, frayed etc and that seems to be fine too. Commander shows temps fine and they rise and fall as if the system is fine.
I dont think the sensor is goosed cause when there is no warning the car will be totally fine. The coolant needle also rises as would be expected (I only take proper temps from the commander anyway!)
Oh and my commander has just started playing up too but I dont think they are related?
Any idears please? :confused: :Thumbs-up
Could be a sticking ast cap. Funilly enough, mine did the same a few months back. I had to top it up 3-4 times but since then, it\'s been fine.
change cap nut first burp system of ALL air.
fixed my own and many friends and strangers cars doing the same.
my stupid buzzer would come on majority times i started it, have not heard it for one year now.
Ok cheers guys.
AST wise, would there be any signs of water that has leaked out of this or does it just annoy the car and flash up the warning?
Just going to search on how to burp the system. Is this the same as an airlock?
Ricco :)
ok just read this from one of the links on the tech section, this correct?
QuoteYou must "burp" the coolant system. Run the car for a about three minutes (don\'t drive it yet because you may be low on coolant) and shut it down. Put a rag over the engine coolant cap and open it up, pulse the big coolant hose, and top it off. You will need to do this several times. The first time you drive it take some water with you because you may get the "Add Coolant" buzzer and you don\'t want to drive the car for more than about 30 seconds with the buzzer on. Remove the radiator cap and top off the coolant level before you drive the car for the next three drives and you will have a well purged coolant system
Now I have done this when I was doing the champers test but I will give it another go tomorrow and see if I can get any air to come out, worth a shot :)
If the cap is sticking open, it\'ll let too much coolant into the overflow. Best bet is to eliminate it, thats what im gonna do with my petite alu ast.
Ah ok, so with a bad cap the expansion tank would be dam full when the car was hot? (rather than, urm where should it be when hot?) So if mine is different that confirms bad AST cap?
I have read its good to replace anyway which I will do (get on the blower to Mazda tomorrow) but just curious to make sure im getting rid of the problem completly :)
Thought I\'d jump in this thread as it involves the coolant buzzer.....
My temperatures are fine & the coolant is not low at all, but loads of times, the coolant light/buzzer goes off. But I can\'t work out what\'s causing it. Sometimes it\'ll just stay on continuosly, no matter what I do, even though there is no sign of any problems at all! Any ideas???
Check that the sensor hasn\'t lost the cable at the front. It should be grounded by the sensor when the system is full.
Shaun
Just to confirm, the sensor is the black nut looking thing on the front of the filler point right?
With a thick black wire coming out of it pointing down?
couple inches down from the filler cap yes! The wire trails back up to an electrical connecter (white I think) to the right of the filler cap.
Update : Just re-burped the system using the method I quoted above. Dont think I got any air out of the syatem but the buzzer hasn\'t played up for a whole day! :rolleyes:
Need to find a problem! Nothing worse than having a problem and not finding something wrong, ever wondering if it\'s going to happen again.