Just wondering which is a better map for a stock 7, the PFC base map or the jap spec stock ecu?
Thanks
I would go for the PFC at the least can be mapped for uk fuel & when you decide to mod it is there already
Quote from: peterwoldsI would go for the PFC at the least can be mapped for uk fuel & when you decide to mod it is there already
I have the PFC already but will not be getting it mapped for a month, what im wondering really is whether I should install it today or the day before I get it mapped. I will not be adding any mods before then
Quote from: collyI have the PFC already but will not be getting it mapped for a month, what im wondering really is whether I should install it today or the day before I get it mapped. I will not be adding any mods before then
Install it today ! It runs a lot better than standard, just a little rich. I have completed a few mods on my car ( HKS Intake, Greddy SMIC, efini y pipe, greddy elbow, Walbro 255 ) and have yet to alter the base map. My AFR\'s are still showing good figures, right up to 11.8 at WOT. However, mine is not a daily driver so the fuel consumption and " time to play" are not an issue.
Bob
Colly,
Does your car have no mods whatsoeve already. Like no aftermarket air filters or exhaust (ie totally standard)??
Quote from: GEO147Colly,
Does your car have no mods whatsoeve already. Like no aftermarket air filters or exhaust (ie totally standard)??
Ye it\'s completly standard, when i brought it in I thought that was the safest option but I havn\'t had the funds to do anything with it since
If it\'s completely standard, leave it on the standard ECU until you can get the PFC mapped.
Quote from: buckman67My AFR\'s are still showing good figures, right up to 11.8 at WOT. However, mine is not a daily driver so the fuel consumption and " time to play" are not an issue.
Bob
11.8 bit on the lean side on WOT on full boost, not such a problem at 10 psi but at 14psi you might see a rise in knock values
Quote from: elford_timIf it\'s completely standard, leave it on the standard ECU until you can get the PFC mapped.
Would I be better off? I nearly have the job done. Might leave it as it is though, just wondering for future reference -
Just ran into a problem with removing the stock ecu, I took off the 2 10mm bolts below the ecu and the one above it (trying to remove the frame). I can\'t get the fame out though and cant find any other bolts holding it on. Any ideas?
Colly,
I just installed my PFC yesterday. I had the same problem:
There is a plastic screw right beside where you took the top 10m bolt out. Its hard to see but this is what is holding your stock ecu in. You just need to unscrew the grey plastic screw with a phillips screwdriver and the ecu will drop out.
Also, the connectors in the stock ecu are removed by pressing in a little tab with a flathead and prying out at the same time!
Good luck.
Also, the top bracket has an earth attached to it. I put this brackt back exactly as it was before removal. Then use the velcro stickies to attach the PFC in place. I left the bottom bracket off and used one other velcro to attach the bottom of the PFC to the white plastic trunking at the bottom. This leaves room for the commander connection as if you were to put the bottom bracket back on it would cover the connection ports on the PFC!
You can then use the last velcro stiky to atach the commander to the dashboard if you dont have any other holder for the commander!
If you get stuck pm me on the Irish rotary site and i will give you my phone number.
Regards.
Quote from: GEO147Colly,
I just installed my PFC yesterday. I had the same problem:
There is a plastic screw right beside where you took the top 10m bolt out. Its hard to see but this is what is holding your stock ecu in. You just need to unscrew the grey plastic screw with a phillips screwdriver and the ecu will drop out.
Also, the connectors in the stock ecu are removed by pressing in a little tab with a flathead and prying out at the same time!
Good luck.
Cheers for that, found the grey screw, turned the thing about 100 times but it doesn\'t seem to want to come out. I\'ll go back to it and see if I can finish the job tomorrow. By the way did you bother ajusting the idle bleed screw before the learning process or it it grand to just see what its doing after and ajusting if necessary?
No problem...screw, pull and pry the **** out. It one of those plastic trim type screws like what was holding the trim piece that hides the ecu location in the footwell, so you actually have to get plastic screw and the round plastic surround bit out aswell!
Quote from: collyCheers for that, found the grey screw, turned the thing about 100 times but it doesn\'t seem to want to come out. I\'ll go back to it and see if I can finish the job tomorrow. By the way did you bother ajusting the idle bleed screw before the learning process or it it grand to just see what its doing after and ajusting if necessary?
Mine was premapped according to Eddie so I didnt even disconnect the battery and didnt need to go through the learning process! I would leave the bleed idle screw alone and just see how it idles at first. I was told that if it continues to hunt ie rev up/down continuously then turn the bleed idle screw anticlockwise 1/4 turn. Mine did hunt for a bit but I drove it a little, then turned ignition off, then back on and the idle settled and is perfect now.
But as I said I didnt need to go through the learning process!!