hi guys right where do i start.i got a fd and when i get to 3000rpm it wont boost it starts backfiring then the oil light comes on and the needle goes to 8.it weird because it was boost good beforehand.also the second turbo doesnt always come in.
please can someone help me it would be much appreiciated
cheers luke
What mods do you have on the car? What did you do with/to it before this happened the first time?
its got trust induction kit,greddy intercooler and hard pipes.i havent messed with it it just started to do it.
Sound like this link, look under "test drive"
http://www.robrobinette.com/buyaused.htm (http://www.robrobinette.com/buyaused.htm)
check the engine earths for a start.
Cheers
also check MAP sensor hose is connected.
It\'s the bit about the oil warning light & oil pressure that worries me a little. Of course that may simply be a red herring and completely unrelated.
i checked the oil and was low so put some in light dont come on now.still holding back though.it is like its misfiring its proper bangs and back fires and spits flames.
OK, in that case I\'d say the oil light was a red herring and probably doesn\'t have anything to do with the boost problem.
So it\'s MAP sensor check and possibly vaccuum leak search time.
hi guys cud it be a plug breaking up or a lead???
sounds like some sort of limp home mode on the ECU....have you tried pulling the codes from the ECU? The oil thing might be something like oil metering pump failure? or simply it could be low on oil....an oil meterring pump failure would throw the car into limp mode. what ecu are you using?
sorry to hijack this a little.. but i believe i maybe having trouble with this:
After the test drive, restart the car after about 30 minutes of cool-down. The car should start easily and the idle should quickly stabilize at around 800 RPM. If it doesn\'t the engine bay may be too hot and causing vapor lock in the fuel lines.
i have no trouble boosting when the engines cold. usually 12 psi on first turbo, then 10-11 on second. however, if the cars been running for say 10 miles, it starts to have trouble boosting on the second turbo..
at current, i\'ve replaced the airbox with twin mushrooms, but have no cold air feed. am i shooting myself in the foot? and where on earth are u meant to run a feed if so (pics please :P)
Erm, boosting on a cold engine isn\'t necessarily that good an idea. Just a thought. Oh, and can you qualify "having trouble boosting on the second turbo" a little?
And yes, IMHO (and the opinion of a few other forums members), you have shot yourself in the foot with the mushroom filters. I\'d stick the airbox back on and check if you\'ve still got the boost problem before investigating any further.
Hi tics1982 as somebody said you could do with checking error codes on the ecu :) as described in here (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23569) you will need a non flashing 12v LED and a normal peice of wire :) Its an easy and cheap test failing that look at sparkplugs?
JohnP Dont boost it while cold :( it will cost you
Quote from: JohnPsorry to hijack this a little.. but i believe i maybe having trouble with this:
After the test drive, restart the car after about 30 minutes of cool-down. The car should start easily and the idle should quickly stabilize at around 800 RPM. If it doesn\'t the engine bay may be too hot and causing vapor lock in the fuel lines.
i have no trouble boosting when the engines cold. usually 12 psi on first turbo, then 10-11 on second. however, if the cars been running for say 10 miles, it starts to have trouble boosting on the second turbo..
at current, i\'ve replaced the airbox with twin mushrooms, but have no cold air feed. am i shooting myself in the foot? and where on earth are u meant to run a feed if so (pics please :P)
Johnp sounds like a sticky solenoid you\'ve got there fella. Get a replacement and get your hands dirty for about 2hrs replacing it and you should be fine
it had the problem prior to installing the mushrooms.. and yes i know i\'m meant to behave on a cold engine :) and when i say cold i mean at the stage before you can cook eggs on it.
thanks bobbit, i\'ve had a natter about it with hurley rotary and they think and hope it\'ll be a solenoid. trouble is theres more solenoids on this car than i have pairs of underpants... so i have a feeling it\'ll end up with hurley anyway :P
I had a similar prob and it turned out to be the 2nd solenoid back, £15 for a replacement solenoid (did a test to make sure it would work up to 15psi to be sure) and 2hr of work and i was done. My 2nd turob was hesitant and then stopped working altogether, this fixed it for me and i\'m delighted
oh, and when i mean trouble boosting on the second turbo, it feels like the cars holding back/hesitent. it still revs smoothly and consistently upto 7.5k, but boost pressure drops back to bang on zero at around 4.5k. this is an intermitent fault, but when the car is really hot it has this problem more times than not.
and sorry for the triple post :P
if your handy with a spanner and its not a daily car its a reasonable job to do yourself :Thumbs-up pop the uim off and the dreaded rats nest stands before you:Laugh - as for the after 4.5k rmp that sounds like the 2nd turbo not kicking in what so ever! as bobbit did i replaced the solenoids and also the vac lines on mine as they were a little worse for wear (touched them and they crumbled)
how do u diagnose which solenoid it is?
my diagnosis was to disconnect the CRV from the air intake and feed a hose from the disconnected end in through the passengers window. This let me know if it was venting boost when the 2nd tubby came online, it was and so i could tell the crv was not working. The 2nd solenoid back controls the crv and hey presto!
i\'m a noob. whats a CRV?
Charge Release valve. :)
thankyou very much :)
are the 2 crv\'s identical?
No, one the ARV, Air relief valve and is different to the CRV, the crv is furthest back in the engine bay of the 2
have a look here for more info bud: clicky (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm)
From 0 to 4,500 RPM with a vacuum applied to Chamber A, the Charge Control Valve stays closed, as Primary boost is always greater than a vacuum. Note, that the vacuum supply is from the Vacuum Chamber (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm#VacuumChamber), thus leakage of the one-way check valve for the Vacuum Chamber (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm#VacuumChamber) will result in Primary boost applied on both sides of the actuator resulting in this valve opening when it should not, dumping Primary boost through the Charge Relief , Secondary Turbo and out the Charge Relief Valve. Another symptom of a leaky Vacuum Chamber (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm#VacuumChamber) one-way check valve is a loss of boost that is restored if the throttle is let off, (re-charging the Vacuum Chamber (http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm#VacuumChamber) from engine vacuum) then quickly re-applying throttle results in boost.
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useful page, thanks :)
Nee bother!