After suffering a knackered solenoid i did some searching on how to test for a faulty one. Found a good bit of info but you need to have several specialised parts and bits from the car that were quite tricky to get too, so i had a bit of a think and came up with this.
Parts required:
Mityvac and some of the pipes and connectors it comes with,
12 volt supply,
pressure/boost gauge
pressure chamber.
Firstly getting the correct connections (ignore this if you have spare 6mm silicon piping) to allow the mityvac to force pressure into the solenoid and pressure chamber.
You will need the short lenght of 6mm piping (this on mine was quite stiff), both lenghts of larger diameter piping (should be about 8-10mm diameter) and the 2 largest connectors that are tapered. Parts pictured below:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/15589678ce0da60aedd1473cf32a8258b7ecd1532981085089040f1d.jpg)
Now to get the solenoid connected. Connect the smaller pipe (6mm)to the nipple at a right angel on the solenoid and then one of the connector to the nipple just next to this one, see below:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/21671588c9ca6d17478a963b39c093f6f5c54e08cdd3feab30fe44d6.jpg)
To connect the solenoid to the pressure chamber you will need to use the 6mm pipe and connect this to the solenoid and then to either nipples on the pressure chamber. Then connect one of the larger diameter pipes to the other nipple on the pressure chambe and then connect the gauge to the other end.
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/5714646562ae64fdaf4dfe62a050e9f201b001fdff62964db27d5280.jpg)
Now connect the other larger diameter pipes to the mityvac (where it pushes air out) and then to the remaining connector on the solenoid. Hopefully it should look like this:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/2767179594f72ad2e96b2d5c10eb889dc82ce8b8884811bde4a7868b.jpg)
Now all you need to do is apply a 12 Volt supply to the solenoid, it should then click and allow the pressure from the mityvac to the pressure chamber. now you will need to pump the mityvac until the pressure gauge reads approx 10-15psi (use the pressure you car is running or go slightly higher). The set up should hold the pressure until you disconnect the 12V supply, and when you disconnect it you should hear a woosh immediately. If there is no immediate whoosh of air then the solenoid is knackered.
Hope this helps anyone with solenoid probs.
this should be the last pic:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/24877349b3efdafa8fa544b739ba0ef18e994614337c419612aa0f29.jpg)
All i get is --Image not availiable\'
Bob
Damn, was working before, I\'ll try again then. Bum!
pic one:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/30680812855bd609fe99e4c94c13749ba61cc803b9d8d89cb95d20a3.jpg)
pic 2:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/71784720d03b4b6c00d0c6db1ddda42389169e8c4e3a60048bb09de4.jpg)
pic 3:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/62277626f9abb033917ceacc812f33da4d013f23cf3016c7a4940288.jpg)
pic 4:
(http://snap36.photobox.co.uk/58821121b74a3625b9796e7e43d934555e7d2eaaae37e7d439b264ac.jpg)
Nice write up. Could do with being put in the technical stickies section.
Cheers bud. If someone could move it that would be great, if they do can you remove the extras pics as i fixed the prob with the first ones, Thanks!
You have PM :)
Very nice, very helpful! Nice one Bobbit!
hello mate,
any chance you can call me 07958166871..
chris was after something from you (you mentioned something to him at my unit ref solenoids ???)
Will do bud, think this was the thread i was on about but think there was something else too.
what symptoms would a knackered solenoid give?
only curious because i havent driven my car for a week and its playing up!
if i am driving along using full pedal, when the revs reach around 3k, the car stops revving and pops and splutters. however, if i am gentle with the accelerator, it will rev all the way to 8k with no problems. also, if i put my foot down higher in the rev range in any gear i also get the samr problem?
any help would be greatly recieved thankyou.
Doesn\'t sound like a solenoid prob bud, when did you last change the plugs?
i have only had the car for a month or so. its a standard uk twin turbo with apexi induction and unknown aftermarket exhaust. should changing the plugs be the first thing to try?
i was thinking of replacing all of the vacuum hoses as a matter of course, is this worth doing also?
thanks for the reply
If that was a 2stroke I would say its running weak mid range, a four stroke would have the same symptons if the accellerator pump wasn\'t working. I\'d check the plug colour if I was you.Have you got the apexi( or similar) ecu? Cos its my understanding that the rotarys won\'t run correctly with the induction kit on and the Mazda ecu.
sorry to sound stupid, but what is a 2stroke?
i will check the plug colour, with the symptoms i have, would you expect them to have carbon deposits on them? what do you have to remove to get to them as i have heard they can be an awkward job.
i have only got a standard ecu but will look inti getting a power fc if i need to.
the car had been running fine until i left it inthe cold for a week and didnt use it?
the car has also smelt very rich when running but maybe this is how it should be?
Firstly, I am sort of just finding my way round rotarys so don\'t take my word as gospel. Two stroke engines are usually now found only in small capacity scooters and bikes, their emissions are no longer pc so unfortunately they are less popular. Atwo stroke has literally twice as many power strokes as the four stroke engines found in cars- not RXs-,cc for cc a two stroke will .... all over a four stroke.The plugs on the RX are a pig to get to,, they are located on the left side of the engine, get a torch and see where they are. Note which lead goes to which plug. I have found it easier to lift the car or put it on ramps and get to them from underneath if you find the air con too much in the way.BE CAREFUL. Take one plug out ast time, f they are black and the engine smells of petrol then its probably running very rich or the plug is fouled. The ideal colour for the plug should be sandy brown. If they are white then don\'t drive the car.The best advice I could give is to speak to Carl at Heyward rotary,he knows more than me ( a lot more). If you are running a standard ecu then it won\'t run properly anyway.One last thing, if it has suddenly developed this problem then it sounds very much like an air leak ie, an inlet gasket or the inlet tract leaking somewhere. Phone Carl.
Any chance we can stop the discussion on an info thread guys, dont want to sound harsh but TBH starting a new thread will get loads more replys and should get you sorted asap
Point taken!!!Bob.
My apologies for going off at a bit of a tangent here, I found the above article interesting and will store it away for future reference. Is it possible for someone to just delete the unnecessary comments of mine above as Mr Bobbit does have a point, Bob.
yep fair point, my comments too if necessary. thanks for all the help guys
where are the solenoids located in the engine bay? do you have to remove things to get to them?
Indeed you do - under the UIM..... along with plenty of the ratty nest! :2eek
Quote from: gear1275;586020where are the solenoids located in the engine bay? do you have to remove things to get to them?