Mazda Rotary Club

General => General Technical => Topic started by: piggy on November 07, 2007, 10:29:49 PM

Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: piggy on November 07, 2007, 10:29:49 PM
its have some kind of hold back at around 4k to 6k rev,don\'t know why
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: gmogle on November 07, 2007, 10:37:20 PM
Does it pull strongly after the 6k mark ?

Are you sure you arent getting confused by when there is a small flat spot before the 2nd turbo kicks in ?
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: SmbFD3S on November 07, 2007, 11:03:24 PM
Have you got a boost gauge fitted?
 
If so what happens to the readings?
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: piggy on November 07, 2007, 11:12:53 PM
yes i have a boost gauge fitted.
reading is when hold back, drop a bit to 4.5, 4.6,
normal is 5.0.
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: SmbFD3S on November 07, 2007, 11:20:45 PM
I assume you are reading in PSI???
 
If so you have a boost leak somewhere, and not a small one.....
 
You should be getting around 10 to approx 4500-5000 then a small drop to 8 ish then back up to 10 on second turbo.... 10 PSI is about .7 bar and is standard twin turbo boost
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: piggy on November 07, 2007, 11:23:41 PM
o..sorry. did not make it very clear.
it is 0.5 bar when normal, sometimes drop to 0.45 , 0.46
cheers
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: SmbFD3S on November 07, 2007, 11:31:51 PM
have a read through this thread also and see if there are any similarities...
 
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40936&highlight=hesitation (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40936&highlight=hesitation)
 
Could be a dodgy solenoid or could just be a vac leak somewhere, but as you are probably aware there is a lot of hose to check
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: piggy on November 07, 2007, 11:38:47 PM
i\'ll check it later see what it is , thank you for your help anyway
Title: hesitation at 4500
Post by: banned advertiser on November 08, 2007, 01:07:53 AM
There is a water temp sensor that if it goes faulty, it tells the ECU its still cold and not warmed up, so when you accelerate, it is still running as if cold, and far to rich, with the cloke on, so coughs and splutters. Worth checking.