hi peeps,
got me new FC last week.
1987 EGI
46000 from new
full service history
new clutch
NO RUST
heres som pics
Rmaj
cool mate, very retro :-)
Whats your plans for her?
Added it to your name on the list :)
:D
Wow that does look clean. Nice find.:yes
sell it to me nick :)
nice clean car
i love the air filter duct;) ..now i know where feed got their idea from for the fd:Hammer but does it really work on fc as i can\'t see any scoop or cut in front.:Hammer
The duct is as Mazda intended. When the bonnet is shut it is fed upwards from the main intake in the nsoe of the car :)
Quote from: DC-TYPERsell it to me nick :)
hi bud, sorry aint been about.. ive been fidling with me FC..
and you can buy it for £2000....
Rmaj
by the way brett, carl reckons that its the cold start routine playing about when she is warm, which makes sense, ive been reading that its a thing the ecu does... if you dont get it out of the whole warm start cycle before shutting off.
Rmaj
That\'s more than possible - I can\'t recall how much of the cold idle assist is actually looped into the ECU\'s I/O on an EGi? I know the turbo\'s have a more intergrated system for sure.
if i fire mine up and let it warm up its ok,if i dont warm it up i floods bigtime when i try to restart,must be a mazda thing.
Ditto, But it is less prone to flooding in a warmer climate :Laugh . That cold start cycle thing makes sense!
Also its much nicer driving a FC on roads that are wider than the car.....
Basically...
The RX-7 (especially 1986 and newer) is well known for flooding problems. One of the most common is caused by a “short start” condition. The “short start” is when someone starts the vehicle and turns it off before it is allowed to reach full operating temperature. The typical situation is moving the vehicle from one parking spot to another(ex: from garage to driveway). Cooler weather, especially temperatures below 70 degrees, aggravate the situation. What has happened, is the engine is still in the cold-start warmup cycle. Due to a fluke in the engine management’s fuel injection computer, if the engine is shut off during this cycle, it is highly likely the engine will flood itself out the next time the engine is cranked. It does not matter whether you wait one hour or one week, the computer will wait for you the next time it’s started. Once again, this is not something that will present itself as a problem every time you short-start the car. Of certainty, the problem will not occur if the short-start situation is always avoided and the vehicle is in proper mechanical condition. If consistent starting problems are experienced outside of the short-start situation, service is probably needed to the vehicle.
love
Rmaj
mine seems to have not got the cold start system in operation as it starts lovely and then goes straight into its normal idle. is this ECU related or is there something else,mine is a TII. Not hi-jacking the thread but its related and seems to flow into your excellent reply
are you sure it has the cold start system - that means it has the weird container for anti-freeze
unless its just ecu controlled ?
just fit a fuel cut switch - best way to stop this
Taylor, do you start the car with it in gear and clutch pressed?? if you do this bypasses the system apparently??
Rmaj
well on my other red cab the car would increase in speed until warm, this one seems not to have this/choke etc. not that i am bothered just interested. I know what you mean by the cold start system though and this defo has not got that. More US ones seem to have that
does anyone know what the deceleration control does?
an educated guess,it probably cuts fuel on deceleration for the sake of fule economy.(?)
Also controlls the air valves to stop overun popping and that other fun stuff KILJOYS!
That cluch and in gear stuff sorta makes sense, Ill try it.
Its a problem for the S4 cars as they do not have the "Floor it while cranking and Ill turn off the injectors" so it sort of explains the TII having no issue.
Also the Gen 2 injectors are prone to leaking and sticking. I normally pull the ECU fuse as the ignition on mine will still run and it unfouls ( No coilpacks, Never thought that was a good thing before)
I start mine out of gear with the clutch in and I give the throttle a quick blip then crank it. It revs right up to 3000 rpm then after 20 seconds goes down to to around 2000 rpm and will stay there until it has warmed up. It won\'t rev up to 3000 rpm if you don\'t blip the throttle first. This is how it says to start a cold engine in "the book". I have also fallen fowl of the flooding problem when starting from cold the swithcing off before the warm up cycle has been completed! One bitten twice shy!
Quote from: rmagictastichi peeps,
got me new FC last week.
1987 EGI
46000 from new
full service history
new clutch
NO RUST
heres som pics
Rmaj
Look\'s great, there are still a few good low mileage examples out there if you look around and be patient!
hi PJ, your right, but i think that i may have some thing sticking in the air/throttle control stuff, thing is mine makes sort of a popping noise during coasting in gear or engine breaking, im pretty sure that its either the TPS needs adjusting, or maybe the BAC or Dashpot for the popping, am going to adjust/inspect all tommorrow.
Also ive looked at the injectors and they do look a bit ropey, but it runs really good so theyre working, maybe just leaking a tad.
also how many MPG does anyone get from thier EGI???
Rmaj
Does yours still have the air pump on? If so the popping noise I think is quite normal as it creates a vaccum to stop unburnt fuel entering the exhaust system. Mine pop\'s a but when in gear during engine breaking. My injectors could with a clean I think but I\'m not sure if you can use any cleaners with a rotary engine. As regards MPG for 10 litres of fuel I get about 45 miles before the light comes on. As I think everyone knows the rotarys aren\'t the most economical of engines!
A standard EGi is one of the worst for fuel - on the motorway you might stretch 23mpg....
Get a straight through system on there and junk the air injection - you will see around 30pmg on the motorway.
Foot to the floor the fuel tank will empty very quickly...
When my muffler broke the fuel economy went from 250ish miles a tank to at least 280 . It was quite noticable
Ah ha! Finally a fc the same colour and model as mine. Nice find with such low millage. Had mine 6 months now, its heavy on the fuel if you drive it like a loon. and it does have the occational flooding when going on short drives. You will have loads of fun with this car as i have had with mine. Reccomend replacing the stock exhaust if you have it, to a straight through single exit exhaust. More power, more ecconomical and more back firing :). The old exhaust is probably riddled with holes and rust. :)
I was going to go for a non merged Primary system (So thats twins all the way from the motor ) using 2 stainless 2" resonators and 2 glasspacked rear straight throughs. Hopefully wont be too loud....:3gears-rh
Had to keep the standard exhaust (And fix the cracked rear pipe) for rego. The car is complianced on thursday so next week its off to the exhaust shop.
Im thinking that hopefully this will also fix the running rich bit as it should also lean the car out. :rollin :Hammer
Nice to see one the same colour as mine too....and I\'m very envious...those words "no rust"!!
Lovely car and hope you have as much enjoyment as I\'ve had (still having) with mine.
im sure mine was that colour aswell - a pale blue ?
Mazda call it sapphire blue...a kind pale/mid metallic blue.
On the subject of fuel economy, I get 270 per tank on long runs but much less around town...thats with a non-cat replacement twin exhaust.
Popping on coasting/slowing down..mines always done that..I came to conclusion they dont like slowing down!
Starting from cold..definitely concur with previous view..let it go through the procedure and back to usual idle before stopping. I still get caught out now when I move the car from drive to garage and foget to leave it running...come back 2 days later and its flooded.
Changing the temp sender has done wonders for me. I also think the O2 sensor is not working .
Found it unplugged once and plugging it in makes no difference!:Hammer
I have found the flooding problem is worse after I have given the car a "Spirited " Drive, So I automatically swich off the fuel pump as I park the car or Crank the car with the Pump off in the morning Before starting it.
Popping on coasting.....Yeah baby! ( Still, It doesnt beat a Sheet of flame out the back. You have to love premix and a Jport!!)
Silly thought, I have found my bodyplugs in the floor have been knocked in. ( Only because I actually get to drive the thing these days!) Causing the carpet to get wet.
May be something to keep in mind .