My blimmin horn has stopped working :Santa (fnarr fnarr ha ha jokes expected)
I have ordered a haynes manual from ebay 2 weeks ago - thats got lost and hasnt turned up.
Anyway can somebody tell me where the horn sound module is located thanks.
(yes I could find it by looking but im far too lazy)
Also I take it that is a single 12v+ wire feed from the switch and the horn gets its negative supply from the car body (right?)
TIA 2connect
also are the any big meets in the west midlands - if so when where
errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr .............. ?
somewhere behind the front bumper i think
grinders right will be a bumper off job to sort it.Mine stopped & failed mot so rigged one up with a switch just under steering wheel & new horn fitted near induction kit
Yup, same here.
Didnt fancy diasmantling the front end of the car so rigged up a new horn with new horn button on centre console :)
Chris
Mines ok but still rigged up a new twin air horn system, the standard one just didn\'t sound manly enough lol :Laugh :Laugh
I got a new horn fitted, did not need to take off the front bumber as you can access the wires via the engine bay, fixed the new horn so it sits inside the front bumper, was a tight fit but managed it in the end. Got a horn from halfrauds for £13. I can post pics if you like?
YOu bunch of wusses!
Horn can be accessed by removing the expansion tank and plastic panels next to the relays. Pretty certain you can get to them from there.
Check to make sure your actually getting a conenction via the steering wheel before you go to all that trouble though :)
you can get to them from underneath if you have no engine tray fitted. They do rust quite badly here so as Brett says try your connection at the wheel or even short it out to metal and the horn should come on. There are two seperate ones so one of them should work.
Quote from: BrettYOu bunch of wusses!
Horn can be accessed by removing the expansion tank and plastic panels next to the relays. Pretty certain you can get to them from there.
Check to make sure your actually getting a conenction via the steering wheel before you go to all that trouble though :)
Thanks Brett, you were spot on - didnt read your post until after the manual arrived and I had worked this out for myself though - but thanks anyway:
Right as I have sorted this problem I will give a quick run down of the procedure, this might help someone else:
1) first test horns work: remove expansion bottle (2x10mm bolts) then remove the two cowlings behind that - push in the centre button of the plastic holding rivets about 5mm the pull the outer edge- they pop out) once cowlings are removed you can see two rusty horns - remove the single feed wite from each - then bridge a piece of wire from the 12v+ post of the battery to the horn feed spade connector, a toot toot noise should now be in your head. if not horns are fooked, replace and rewire (JOB DONE) if tooting is forthcoming go to step 2 (after you clean and replace the two horn feed wires - like obviously!)
2) press horm button ... can you hear a realy clicking???
CLICKING = NO = check fuse & start tracing the problem from the steering wheel horn switch down to the horn relay located on the - wait for it ... CPU - ha ha - well it was in the 80\'s anyway - more about this later
CLICKING = YES = great your horn switch is working and supplying power down to to the relay, however power is not coming out from the other side so the problem is probably CPU related - see item 3)
3) sorting the CPU... first get at it ...
a) remove the drivers side door strip
b) remove the ajoining panel between the fuse box and door opening in the right hand side of the footwell (hel on by 3 push in/out plastic rivets)
c) CPU is long box held on my 10mm nut - remove nut and unclip the 3 push on block wire connectors
d) strip down cpu - remove the retaing screw from the base, remove the long thin cover plate , now extract the circuit board
e) there are 2 realys - one is the horn - inspect the mech closley to make sure its connecting when clicking (you can with EXTREME CAUTION **be very careful it dont touch any body part or other grounded part) ) connect the board to its block connector in situ and test by switching ignition on and pressing the horn button , you can also manually with your finger flick the relay clicker to both positions - to and fro to see if the relay connectors are failing (burnt or falling short) if they are connectin and your hearing nowt then ... wiggle the board and its connectors whislt the horn button is depressed - if it sounds (as mine did) then congratulations you have found a "DRY JOINT" on the CPU most probably on the connector block pins... (a dry joint is where the solder weld has cracked and dried and it can no long conduct the current though it) so we get a soldering iron and melt each suspect joint and add a small quantity of new solder and flux - to re solder the joint. JOB DONE - reassemble then go for a drive honking wildly for no other reason that that you can.
So thats it, I would suspect that in the majority of cases where there is a relay clicking it is the relay itself or a dry joint on the block connector pins OR relay connector pins... re solder all these prime suspects...
Needless to say you can connect a mutimeter to test voltage flow on the relevant parts of the relay and the pin that carries that relay voltage outwards to the horn cans.
Finally I have to say I was bloody amazed that the output pin was not carrying teh +12v voltage to the horn - visually it looked perfect and it seemed to defy all logic that a big meaty solder weld could not carry the voltage through it - I was amazed, so dont just assume that cos it looks right it is right, re solder and test it.
G:driving