I\'ve done a search and haven\'t really found what I\'m looking for.
I\'m trying to get my head round what V mount kits are available, which ones are best and how much grief they are to fit. I know I\'ve got to relocate my battery, but what else is in the way/needs moving etc...
Quite a lot to ask I know, but any experiences/knowledge etc... would be much appreciated.
You\'ll need to remove/relocate your air con condensor too. And some associated air con bits \'n\' pieces. But that\'s about it. The radtec/Dragon one is very easy and straight forward to fit.
a friend of mine had the dragon one fitted, said it was straight forward, rip out yer aircon n its even easyer :)
But i dont see the benifit of the vmounts unless you have a vented bonnet, iv got a greddt rad and front mount and i dont see any higher than 25, unless in trafic, also have the water spray setup from the evo 5 on order to fit a custom water spray :)
Also less items in the engine bay has to be better than filling it up again with a vmount?? just my 2p lol.. prob guna get slated lol
A vented bonnet is also on the shopping list.
My problem is, I\'ve started doing more and more track days and I have no prob with intake temps, always mid 20s; it\'s the water temps that concern me. On track they are consistently in the range 93 to 100. That\'s why I\'m thinking of going V mount.
My current set up is Blitz FMIC and a PWR race radiator.
I think once the air has been through the IC it\'s not cool enough to effectively cool the rad. Not sure though.
Personally, i don\'t think you should bother. Temps of 93-100 on a car being wellied about round a track is fine, and you won\'t really see any different on a v-mount (Well, i don\'t when i give mine some stick) (I have the radtec v-mount).
try a greddy rad, they hold more coolent, might be a cheaper way, plus water sprayers on the rad to help cool it?.. more ducting to helps :)
Quote from: nikpPersonally, i don\'t think you should bother. Temps of 93-100 on a car being wellied about round a track is fine, and you won\'t really see any different on a v-mount (Well, i don\'t when i give mine some stick) (I have the radtec v-mount).
I disagree. V-mount solves this problem if it is working right. Mine allows me to drive indefinitely on the track with air temps no higher than 35 and water consistently at 90/91/92. I only have to come in because my brakes and tyres and mind have gone after about 30 minutes. (RE:Worx V-mount)
The water temperature problem is the classic symptom of FMICs which v-mounts solve if they are working. Yours (above) sounds like it isn\'t.
Highly recommended! No water injection, no spray bars, no fuss, just consistent cooling once and for all :cheers
I did say personally! :p
I dunno what\'s going on with mine. Temps go up with a bit of wellying. 1 year old engine, single turbo admittedly. Also water cooled turbo, which is gonna help increase temps. I\'m not too worried at the mo, but it certainly doesn\'t seem to be what other people are experiencing. I wonder if it\'s because i\'m not running an AST...
For the original poster...the RE:Worx v-mount allows you to keep your A/C rad and condensor, although relocated a bit. And you can also keep a battery (smaller gel battery) under the bonnet if you want.
When I went on the Woodbridge airfield day other people with v-mounts did have lower temperatures though so I can\'t speak for other makes, only what I\'ve got HTH
P.S. The attached picture does not show the a/c rad mounted on my set-up
Thanks for the opinions - keep them coming.
Andysmee, do you mind me asking how much you paid for the RE:Worx V mount?
If you use a revolution or RE Amamiys v-mout kit you can keep the A/C bits and bobs.
We have the Dragon one here.
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/Dragon_Performance_cooling_systems.html
The kit\'s avaliable have been discussed a number of times before, as JM-Garage stated Re-Amemiya,Revolution and Knightsports are some that allows you to have your aircon.
Kits available are from
R-magic,Famspeed,Knightsports,RE-Amemiya,Revolution(I have this kit)Panspeed,HKS(only the IC part need separate rad or std rad)
Revolution is the most complete kit, comes with everything plus some more bit\'s. Have a look at newera for Revolution or RE-Amemiya kit, they can set you up with any brand though but they have those on the page.
My temp on track on a rainy cold day was constantly 86 degrees, but that\'s not really a just comparrasion.
Quote from: andysmeeI disagree. V-mount solves this problem if it is working right. Mine allows me to drive indefinitely on the track with air temps no higher than 35 and water consistently at 90/91/92. I only have to come in because my brakes and tyres and mind have gone after about 30 minutes. (RE:Worx V-mount)
The water temperature problem is the classic symptom of FMICs which v-mounts solve if they are working. Yours (above) sounds like it isn\'t.
Highly recommended! No water injection, no spray bars, no fuss, just consistent cooling once and for all :cheers
can vouch for this!
superb setup. :yes
i have had 2 different type of vmount and a big front mount before that, i wont go back to front mount. for any kind of proper track abuse v mount is the way forward.
Depending on how much of a diy merchant you are you can always just rejig what you have and position them v mount style. Use your imagination, you\'ll be amazed at the results. Your rad is plenty big enough, you just need to move it. I have one in a v mount and after 30 minutes of track abuse my water temps were 86 on the apexi
If not the Reworx v mount is a serious bit of kit and possibly a little overkill if you are going to retain the twins. It will cope with any engine set up. not cheap though
Quote from: ZX636RThanks for the opinions - keep them coming.
Andysmee, do you mind me asking how much you paid for the RE:Worx V mount?
Best not divulge the total price (as it is bespoke depending on the number of pipes you need or can be re-used off your existing setup) but the pair of radiator/IC cores come in at £950 + VAT IIRC
If I had already gone front mount I would have looked to reconfigure what I had into a v-mount setup. You can fettle the mounts you need by hand I would have thought rather than replace the rad/IC.
For the record, the RE:Worx v-mount does allow cold air through to the induction kit if you want it to (on a single induction kit set-up). But on mine the twin cones are behind the IC with no ill effect.
P.S. I have a Feed vented bonnet with this set-up so temps with a standard bonnet wouldn\'t be the same.
Cheers Andysmee, that\'s great I only wanted an approx. cost.
I\'m really leaning towards doing this - I can feel a winter project coming on :yes
Is it really feasible to re-use my Blitz IC and PWR rad to do this or would I be better off selling these on and buying a complete V mount kit?
If you can fabricate and you have I/C + rad make you own my man. Lots of people are doing this now. I can\'t comment on how it would compare to a genuine kit though.
A customer of mine has a 200SX and he made is own v-mount using an Evo I/C. Brought temps down lower than his FMIC.
keep the pwr rad, its works fine on mine in a v mount. The i/c will depend on size and if you want to move your battery and the size of your induction kit. Also where the pipes come out on the i/c.