When im in traffic im seeing crazy intake temps! Water temps and Oil temps are fine!
Iv got a HKS FMIC and iv relocated my primary filter to my side light to have a ram air effect...i.e under the front drivers headlight...
Im thinking of butchering my bonnet to let the heat escape but been told it can have an adverse effect when the car is on the open road...
WI is next on the agenda but atm i dont have a penny to my name, so that will have to wait :Hammer
What to do...what to do...
flip up into a v mount, that free!
I\'ve got a hks fmic and my temps don\'t go much over 30, got an underbonnet pic?
You mention that its only in traffic, it doesnt really matter how big your i/c is or its position, the sensor is getting cooked under the plenum and thats whats getting hot! You could be putting cold air into it and it will still read hot as at idle its not moving enough air quick enough through the plenum to cool it.
The important thing is how quickly it cools down once you are on the move. I picked a w/i kit for £100 on here, i have used w/i for 3 years now and its the best mod you can do for a rotary IMHO. A lot of people still dont agree but thats downs to them.
I always fit a button in the cabin so i can fire the w/i so if you are sat in the queue at the pod or in the pits at a track or in traffic, just before i race i fire it a couple of time and it drops the air temps quicker than you can count backwards.
I flipped my i/c up from the stock mount position and at the same speed (long motorway journey) on a similar temp day i went from 50 to 24 degrees air temps. without w/i
Sorry forgot to add i have a upright Feed rad...but even on the move they are around 38\'c which i thought is pretty high...on the yellow car i see 24\'c moving and 30-32\'c in traffic and thats only got Stock mount and stock rad in the stock position...
Im gona post in wanted for WI now...
I\'m probably going to get told I don\'t know what I\'m talking about here but 40\'c temps are fine , the ecu will stop adding extra fuel around this temp , yes cooler will produce more power but 40\'c aint dangerous
Above 60\'c is getting into the danger zone and this is were the ecu will start to retard the ignition
Quote from: TintinI\'m probably going to get told I don\'t know what I\'m talking about here but 40\'c temps are fine , the ecu will stop adding extra fuel around this temp , yes cooler will produce more power but 40\'c aint dangerous
Above 60\'c is getting into the danger zone and this is were the ecu will start to retard the ignition
I agree with you, 40 is fine....................... but cooler is still better for more power.
I think ducting is a major issue with the whole cooling set up. Its more important to fit the thing right and duct the air accordingly than just stick a big rad or i/c in the front.
Look at 88gtr\'s set up, his i/c isnt that big but its fitted in the right place with some really good air flow and his car sees well over 500 hp. My i/c is tiny compared to most but temps are great, i ducted the whole front so every bit or air has to go through either the rad or the i/c, the air will take the path of least resistance so if it can go round them it will.
I did some testing on my FC, i ran it with the number plate in the stock position at the front of the bumper in a verticle position and the water temps sat at 86, pulled over, bent the bracket so the number plate directed air into the mouth slightly, set off again up the same bit of motorway and temps sat at 83-84.
Ducting is cheap and easy too :cheers
The above re ducting is so true.
I have the Trust/Greddy SMIC. A brilliant unit but using the standard ducting is just rubbish !
My winter project is going to be improving this.
One of the best thing to do is get some ally sheet and make sure you completely duct the radiator and intercooler in. The more air you restrict from seeping around the side the better the cooling.
V-mounts are very good....so much so we are in the process of about to release a new one! Be a little different to the normal ones....a little bit bigger, but like Intel we have gone for a dual core!......Flow is everything!
You are going to get those temps in traffic regardless really,
if the car isn\'t moving theres no way of cooling, water inj only works on the move too unless you got manual purge ?
All 3 of my previous rx\'s have wondered over 50oC when stuck for a long time in traffic, the newer one is much better but eventually will also go over 50oC :Hammer
Quote from: gsb876, water inj only works on the move too unless you got manual purge ?
Manual purge............... i like that description,
I have a manual purge on mine! works a treat when you cant get moving to cool things down.
With a manual purge are you not just bullsh1ting the AIT tho !!
Scott
i surpose it depends where the nozzel for the WI is..
If its pre intercooler then it should cool the intercool.
If it post intercooler it will probably jut cool the sensor.
Eh....all you are interested in is cooling the charge entering the engine....best place is to put it in the elbow
Hmmm will try and sort some ducting out this weekend. Im in the middle of making a top tray that goes from the front bumper to the top of the rad...the undertray is gona take some more doing though.
Ok here goes
This is how it was prior to me butchering the headlight frame and re-positioning the primary filter...
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC00498.jpg)
This is how it is atm...
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC00530.jpg)
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC00531.jpg)
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC00532.jpg)
This is how the front end sits without the sidelight removed...as you can see the front mount sits directly flush with the "duct" on the front end...as i said i need to make a top and btm tray that goes from the fmic to the rad and then another seperate undertray...
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC00529.jpg)
This is what i wanna do to my bonnet literally butcher it! Hehe...red areas will have open venting i.e just big holes but with mesh covers to allow heat to escape...
blue area will have some sort of scoop to get air into the filter/turbo area...
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/Rixio_Scon/DSC005342.jpg)
So whats the verdict people??? Will it work or not? :p
with icooler in that position u shd be getting excellent air temps cant udnerstand why they wld be so high/in traffic yes but after short movement they should be plummetting.i would have water temps wld have been more of an issue.
my v mount gives good temps on cruise but i think it requires more ducting to get best results
personally i wouldn\'t cut the bonnet open. It will look sh1te, let all the rain in, make the engine dirty quicker and also be a weak spot for thieves wanting to rip the alarm out. A better idea would be those bonnet lifters that raise the bonnet from the hinges about 1" Only trouble is this looks crap also
Well the car is never parked anywhere as just a weekend car and its garaged at home, so it being stolen not an issue...
The rain thing - it never goes out in the rain
Kev-Yorks done similar with his bonnet and it looks good because its done with the stock bonnet.
Yes fair enough it will get dirty quicker but im always cleaning it anyway LOL
I hate those bonnet lifters with every inch of my body...and it just gives more ammo to the local jackass\'s "Er your bonnets open mate"
Oh - & its kinda hard to feef a car wivout a steewing weew :Tongue1
this was a DIY job on my old FD. Not to everyones taste
You need to get that gap between the 2 closed as you say. It wont really help with your temps in traffic though
how did you you find temps
matt
its quite a few years ago now so i cant really remember and i never took it on the track. I was never happy with the water temps, the fans were basically on all the time in traffic. Driving along on a day like today it would be about 87-88 but in traffic on a hot day and it would struggle with fans on all the time and would eventually creep up to 100.
Air temps were good and came down pretty quickly. I think on a day like today i would see temps of about 30 - 35 at cruising speed. No W/I though
I was thinking of pretty much the same thing...i wish you still had that bonnet Tony id snap it off ya :p
just notived, you have an RE inlet, where is the sensor and are you still using an FD sensor?
How did you roll the lip of the vents? Yeh still FD sensor...
i think it was all done by hand, it was a stok bonnet but it was on the car when i got it.
Well thats kinda cheating! :p
Gona have a bash at it as soon as i get a spare bonnet...
Is the FD sensor gona be a problem with the RE intakes?
i shouldnt think so but cant really compare it to stock inlet temps. especially if its in a different place, it may be that its closer to the block or something
But just by touch it feels sooooooooooo hot after its been sitting for a little while...put it this way, came home last night at 2:30am parked it up bonnet open in the garage. Went inside had some munch, brushed the cats...went back out to close the bonnet & the garage is litterally hot inside! Now this is a 2 story double garage plus extra space, so its gotta be giving off some serious heat.
You cant touch the plenum its that hot! Even after 45mins!
Moving intake temps drop to mid 30\'s and water temps solid 85\'c...
i know what you mean about the garage being hot, mine does the same but its a bit smaller.
You should try and maybe shield the upper inlet somehow, i have seen several people do it with bits of ali.
It wont stop your garage getting hot though!
check out my diy job //www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38391 . i\'v got more snaps if you want.
adie
Link not working bud :(
Ah, ok then you\'ll have to go old school and copy and past it. dont know why that is though.
//www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38391
Your a star! What did you use to cut it?
just a jigsaw with quite a fine blade. cut from the under side and just followed the shape of the cross braces. finished off with a file and then went round the bare metal edge with a brush that had been dipped in to some spray paint. I went slowly as one of my aims was to not need to get it re-sprayed, which i didn\'t.
Sweet...i got a dremmel the other day so will have a bash with that as soon as i get a spare bonnet! 20\'c intake temps here we come :evillaugh
Just to stick the boot in my intake temps have been as low as 6c on full boost in the winter. Yes she is a 12 months of the year Fd, nutter I know but thats me.
Looking at you intake filters you are just sucking in hot air from one as well thats not helping, thats why I got the copy Scoot bonnet and did my intake mod and the hot air can get out all the time via the openings.
Through the summer my intake tems coming off track after 30 mins of WOT have been in the low 30\'s at there highest. Just driving around on the road then 17-23c. Water temps have never gone above low 80\'s, normal is 70-75c.
I have yet to seal the rad & intercooler gaps and rubber seal the bonnet to my intake mod. These will be done this winter. I also plan to put an adjustable Ali plate in between the V ( ---> ) of the Rad & the Intercooler on an adjustable threaded bar so I can alter the Rad temps/ Intake Temps by moving the plate up or down on a hindged system.
John ol boy, do me a flava and post a couple of pics of your engine bay will ya :)
Think you are suffering from a heat soaked sensor, it wont echo intake temps correctly and therefor i susest relocating the sensor to the elbow, Also strip the plastic coating from the outside of the sensor till its exsposed then it will respond quicker and represent intake temps a little closer.
Quote from: WarthogI also plan to put an adjustable Ali plate in between the V ( ---> ) of the Rad & the Intercooler on an adjustable threaded bar so I can alter the Rad temps/ Intake Temps by moving the plate up or down on a hindged system.
Similar to the idea I had , I was just going to make 3 plates that could be swapped out when needed , threaded bar might be a better idea though , more adjustment and probably quicker , might borrow your idea :cheers
Quote from: RobbieRX-7personally i wouldn\'t cut the bonnet open. It will look sh1te, let all the rain in, make the engine dirty quicker and also be a weak spot for thieves wanting to rip the alarm out. A better idea would be those bonnet lifters that raise the bonnet from the hinges about 1" Only trouble is this looks crap also
This doesn`t work as well as most people think. The air at this point is very slow moving if not totally still caused by the flows interface with the windscreen. This is the reason the intakes for the heater etc are here as they can draw this air in easily, If it was flowing fast they wouldnt be able to draw the air in. Anyway as this air is not moving it does not draw the hot air out from under the bonnet and in some cases can even raise under bonnet temperatures. Due to causing some sort of pressure difference (can`t remember the specifics off the top of my head but you get the picture).
Bonnet vents should also be shaped a little like a ramp to help create the pressure difference that draws the air out. Just cutting holes in the bonnet does work but is not as efficient as properly shaped vents.
Quote from: RixioJohn ol boy, do me a flava and post a couple of pics of your engine bay will ya :)
Will do mate....will do it later as off to bed now.:Ladys-man
Is this what you were after mate......:burnout
Your a star John! :Thumbs-up
Just about finished with my custom top tray & primary filter ducting...will post pics up later :)
Quote from: steve garbuttThink you are suffering from a heat soaked sensor, it wont echo intake temps correctly and therefor i susest relocating the sensor to the elbow, Also strip the plastic coating from the outside of the sensor till its exsposed then it will respond quicker and represent intake temps a little closer.
Iv read about that before but didnt know how true it was...will give it a go after iv sorted my ducting out