hello
i have been recently restoring my uncles rx7 that he promised to me as a kid
it has been parked up since 2003 as the back arches had rusted away i have had the body work done and solved hard cold starting/easy flooding by replacing the leads dizzy and rotor the leads were factory original the dizzy and rotor were last changed in 93.
i took it out for a ten minute drive up and down the cul de sac as the brakes had started to stick i was surprised they hadnt seazed alot earlier
after the drive i felt the alloys and the front drivers wheel was hot to touch compaired to the other 3 cold to touch but when i was driving the car it didnt feel like the brake was stuck on any ideas what i should check there?
also i noticed like a clicking on the rear passangers wheel while left lock is aplied slowing down any thoughts?
thanks in advance
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If i were you i would overhaul all the brakes, new seals new pads and new fluids
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You might have a brake dragging, as Robbie has said, you need to gove the brakes a good going over, the clicking could well be a ball joint or a bush.
i am expecting some bushes to be dead as they are all original this car have never really been ragged my uncle bought it when it was 2 year old the rear arches had rotted out(thats why it came of the road) but the chassis is solid as my grandad religously waxoiled it its on its second engine from mazda the one in the car cost my uncle just over £1000 fitted by mazda in 92 i think.
the original engine did 39000 miles before it threw a rotor it was banging about my uncle carried on driving it one one rotor for a cpl of months before getting it into mazda for a recon unit
the car has done 80000 garaged most of its life thou work and back thats it my grandads car was used as a run around
Quote from: Brettthe clicking could well be a ball joint.......
?????????????????????????????????????:guinness
Deffo brakes binding dude,you have got a one wheel braking car !!!!!!!!.....strip and clean\\service the whole brake system.1st Gen brakes have to be spot on.
was gonna say they shud have half shafts no ball joints lol thanks for the input iv got a y reg that i broke for parts so i think ill take the calipers of that one and overhaul them
Tis true,.........Brett thinks 1st Gens are front wheel drive.......:Hammer Wally :p he is,mind you,he is so young he still shaves with bus tickets !!:guinness
he is 2 year older than me lol i dont see myself getting this car on the road for a few years i have no claims yet iv also got a swift gti in the garage.
i was thinking of putting it in for an mot to see exactly what it fails on my uncle got a quote for £150 insurance classic on limited milage not a problem for him he is 51 with 10 year no claims
i know for a fact itll fail on the exhaust it currently has a jam speed mild steel manifold on it has done 10 years and has started blowing where the 2 pipe come together under the middle of the car and the back box on it is rotting its also 10 year old iv putty\'d and bandaged the end of the manifold just to take the bark out of it when i run it iv bought a racing beat manifold stainless steel and have had a quote of £290 to have a manifold back stainless steel exhaust system fitted
i need to fix the electric windows everything else works i understand its the switches that go on the windows and was concidering wiring some relays in as iv seen on a post to take the high load from arching on the contacts
its neverending with cars i know that from doing my swift up n i aint quite finished that yet been side tracked for the past 6th months only just getting back into working on my cars they havent seen the light of day
Quote from: oldoneTis true,.........Brett thinks 1st Gens are front wheel drive.......:Hammer Wally :p he is,mind you,he is so young he still shaves with bus tickets !!:guinness
Just gonna go and stick my head in the oven..... :yes :rolleyes:
Anyway, stop showing your age - Bus pass? I use an Oyster! :flamed
i am jus avin a jack daniels thought id ask some questions thanks everyone one other thing i was wondering the 12a in the car hasnt been touched since fitting in 92 it became hard to start ie my uncle would jus pull the choke out n flood the week spark n ring me up worrieing cos it wont start
i took the plugs out spun it over etc n when starting it just turned it over no choke n just touched the accellerator 2 in n out about 1cm for a second then a second or 2 later it would fire the petrol i just pumped in n could catch it with the throttle n pull the choke out to keep it alive if you tried to start it on the choke it would just flood
but once id changed the leads rotor n dizzy it started as normal on the choke but on tick over it would still drop to about 700rpm n the engine would shake as though it was going to cut out i first put this down to the old leads but as it isnt iv turned the fuel mixture screw up to stop the engine shaking it now is sitting solid at 900rpm
i did a compression test on it with a normal piston engine comp tester holding the button in n watched the needle as the engine was turned over it was steady slightly over 7 for both rotors on every stroke but when it was ticking over slightly lumpy there was a routene to it i was worried about 1 tip goin on one rotor thats why i comp tested it
as soon as you reved it over 900 though the power was there as expected n there is no hesitation goin over 3000rpm
i am jus avin a jack daniels thought id ask some questions thanks everyone one other thing i was wondering the 12a in the car hasnt been touched since fitting in 92 it became hard to start ie my uncle would jus pull the choke out n flood the week spark n ring me up worrieing cos it wont start
i took the plugs out spun it over etc n when starting it just turned it over no choke n just touched the accellerator 2 in n out about 1cm for a second then a second or 2 later it would fire the petrol i just pumped in n could catch it with the throttle n pull the choke out to keep it alive if you tried to start it on the choke it would just flood
but once id changed the leads rotor n dizzy it started as normal on the choke but on tick over it would still drop to about 700rpm n the engine would shake as though it was going to cut out i first put this down to the old leads but as it isnt iv turned the fuel mixture screw up to stop the engine shaking it now is sitting solid at 900rpm
i did a compression test on it with a normal piston engine comp tester holding the button in n watched the needle as the engine was turned over it was steady slightly over 7 for both rotors on every stroke but when it was ticking over slightly lumpy there was a routene to it i was worried about 1 tip goin on one rotor thats why i comp tested it
as soon as you reved it over 900 though the power was there as expected n there is no hesitation goin over 3000rpm
Given that you had consistent pressure readings I doubt its a sticking seal, are all the butterflies moving freely? I\'m clutching at straws here, 95% of my Rotary knowledge is only valid after 1986... :Giggle
thanks next time i go up ill check do i just take the air filter off and get some1 to rev it while i watch to see if they are free?
when i was trying to adjust the idle i found it difficult to increase the revs i turned it 2 full turns n little happened i had to adjust the air screw 2 but iv marked them so i know where they were originally
i did the comp test with a cold engine is it advisable to do one once its warm?
the car starts no problem when warm but takes about 5-7 seconds of cranking when cold with the choke out
when you first fire it up its a little croakey and doesnt want to rev to the 3000rpm set by the choke takes about 10-15 seconds at a guess to kick in and rev properly but once warm revs beautifully in fact it revs nicely once its got over the inital start
The compression test should be done once the engine has run for around 10mins. (Mazda\'s way of making sure you burn your hands!)
thanks brett im not too worried as they were all even at 7 but ill get it done while warm
Quote from: dooby69he is 2 year older than me lol i dont see myself getting this car on the road for a few years i have no claims yet iv also got a swift gti in the garage.
i was thinking of putting it in for an mot to see exactly what it fails on my uncle got a quote for £150 insurance classic on limited milage not a problem for him he is 51 with 10 year no claims
i know for a fact itll fail on the exhaust it currently has a jam speed mild steel manifold on it has done 10 years and has started blowing where the 2 pipe come together under the middle of the car and the back box on it is rotting its also 10 year old iv putty\'d and bandaged the end of the manifold just to take the bark out of it when i run it iv bought a racing beat manifold stainless steel and have had a quote of £290 to have a manifold back stainless steel exhaust system fitted
i need to fix the electric windows everything else works i understand its the switches that go on the windows and was concidering wiring some relays in as iv seen on a post to take the high load from arching on the contacts
its neverending with cars i know that from doing my swift up n i aint quite finished that yet been side tracked for the past 6th months only just getting back into working on my cars they havent seen the light of day
I have just taken a decent back box off mine, it does need some new pipe and a clamp welding to it but should work out cheaper if you are on a budget
Mark
Quote from: dooby69thanks next time i go up ill check do i just take the air filter off and get some1 to rev it while i watch to see if they are free?
when i was trying to adjust the idle i found it difficult to increase the revs i turned it 2 full turns n little happened i had to adjust the air screw 2 but iv marked them so i know where they were originally
i did the comp test with a cold engine is it advisable to do one once its warm?
the car starts no problem when warm but takes about 5-7 seconds of cranking when cold with the choke out
when you first fire it up its a little croakey and doesnt want to rev to the 3000rpm set by the choke takes about 10-15 seconds at a guess to kick in and rev properly but once warm revs beautifully in fact it revs nicely once its got over the inital start
if you are using a standard nikki carb stick a little oil down there as they stick work the carb by hand and then try it, they really just need a good run, i had the same problem with mine after putting it back together.
Mark
thanks for the offer mark im not on a budget as such aslong as the engine doesnt blow and its £3000 money isnt a problem ill be getting a full stainless system fitted from the manifold back as i dont have a flange that will fit to the racing beat manifold ill leave that problem to the exhaust firm
the car is completely standard (right down to the seperate radio and cassette deck) apart from the rotting mild steel jamspeed manifold soon to be replaced by my shiny new ss manifold the air pump was taken off in 92/93 when the jamspeed manifold was fitted
i was thinking of replacing the standard air filter with a k&n ring filter and keep the original blue filter box to maintain the standard look.
my uncle didnt do too badly from owning the car from 1983 the only thing to go was the original engine in 92 and the plastic gears in the sunroof winder sheered off i recall scrapyard hunting for that part when i was about 11 years old
i keep telling my uncle they dont like being stored and it wants driving really he was quoted a fair price for classic insurance think im goin to get it insured so he can drive it to the mot station and to the exhaust shop.
last i knew as long as the work is pre booked if he gets stop by the police for no mot or tax he will get away with it as it is booked in at a garage for mot work.
makes me wonder how classic car owners get round the brakes siezing up through long storage time cos they cant legally drive any distance to work the brakes without an mot.
does anyone know if new door hinge/springy thing are avalible the thing inbetween the hinges for keeping the door open the passenger door is perfect as it was rarely used but the driver door goes with a clunk as this part has worn down through use
i love the doors on the fb they sound so solid when closing
Talk to Jimmys for the door bit, Or just oil it ( Ive had that problem with mine, It will need a good larding as the roller is binding on the shaft.)
Secondly, Give the car a good run, It probably needs the cobwebs removed. (Oh how I miss the carby :Grrr NOT)
Technical term, Your seals are gummed up and sticky with old oil / carbon.
Solution, Make sure the buzzer works!:3gears-rh ( It works for me...)
thanks for your reply Kaptainbalistik id love to give it a good run but at the moment there is no mot, tax or insurance on the car currently working towards the mot exhaust and brakes being the only things left to do really farthest i can drive it is up n down my uncles cul de sac n there isnt the room to take it much over 3000rpm before i have to apply the brakes i dont think the neighbours like me as the exhaust is of more use as a sieve than an exhaust lol
what would sticky seals cause?
is there any danger of it throwing a tip as it hasnt been run for 3 years only started to run it this year the bodywork was done over xmas
i have a k&n ring filter it only saw 3,000 miles on the car dont need it now as im runing a weber
Mark
how much would you want for it mark?
My First FB had sticking brakes when I got it. None of the wheels would turn, so the delivery truck had to tip the back up a long way to get it off. in the end it was one new caliper, two sets of repair kits (front and back)new seals for the master cylinder, new pipes all round and a skim on the lathe to get the rust of the discs.
One thing to watch if it has seized really badly, the bolts that hold the calipers together can rust absolutely solid.
where did you get the repair kits from Cycaduk?
Also make sure that the caliper slides on the rails, if it does not then when you go round corners it will bind. A very simple fix without taking your brakes to bits.........just yet.!!
Quote from: dooby69how much would you want for it mark?
call it a £10, are you going to jap show?
Mark
how do you want paying mark:D+ how much is postage to bolton?
dont think ill be able to make it this time dont get my licence back till the 28th of october:Grrr + its 160 miles away lol:wave
Sticking seals are not a problem really. (You can fill the motor With ATF and soak it, But I wouldnt bother!)
Hi, I got the seals from a US company, Blackdragonauto.com, they are reasonably cheap, but minimum postage is high, so you need to order a few things. its worth spending the extra for UPS rather than air-mail.
these guys do a caliper rebuilt kit, its not listed but i have called them about a set http://www.biggred.co.uk/
drop me a line about the filter
mpk490p@hotmail.com
Mark