I have a mazda rx7 twin turbo type r. I have owned it for a few weeks now and it has been driving superb.
I am loving every minute of the car apart from spending £130 on fuel from friday to monday bank holiday weekend. OUCH!!!!
the question i have is about the second turbo coming into play.
Sometimes when the car is warmed up the 1st turbo will kick in and then the 2nd turbo will kick in and you will feel a huge pull and enormous power.
it was like this last nite after i gave it a good thrashing.
But today the first turbo will kick in fine but the enormous pulling power of the second turbo is not there.
you can still here the second turbo come in play but sometimes that extra thrust of power when it pins you back in your seat is not there and sometimes it is.
i hope i am making myself clear and sum1 out there can help me as this car is all new to me.
1. also how long should the engine be started up before i should drive
off.
2. What should i look for in signs that the car is warmed up and is ready for a thrashing.
its my first turbo car and i dont really know much about them but i just want some information or help so you can tell me if my second turbo is on its way out.
look forward to your responses!! :Hammer
If you have a pfc or water temp gauge normally give it a good thrashing when it reaches around 85 degrees, if not drive it for about 10 to 15 mins beforehand.
not strictly accurate as ur oil temp is more important..allways fully warm up engine before using turbos or they will have a shortened life
start car and drive normally until car warmed fully and as regards the 2nd turbo get the car looked at by expert as the twin turbo setup is a nightmare of solenoids and pipes any one of which can scrw u
It sounds most likely that there is a split pipe, getting it checked out by an expert is the easist way to find out for definate tho.
I drive mine right after starting it but am gentle (below 2.5k revs) for about 10 mins or so. If you have an Apexi pfc once the water temp reaches 80+ give it another few mins to let the oil get there too.
Remember also to cool everything down before turning the engine off after you have been out for a spin. Drive off boost for about 10mins to help take some of the heat out of the engine. If you have AC (or the car has had it removed) turn that it on and it activates the Secondary cooling fan which will help cool the water that is cooling the engine and turbos as well. Once i\'ve done that i\'ll park up, switch the engine off but leave the ignition (and ac) on. This cools the water in the radiator, then after 3 or 4 mins turn the engine back on to send the colder water round the engine. This cools things down quite well.
Welcome to the club BTW, you\'ve made an excellent choice of car.
Barry
welcome bud, any pics of your car :)
Have the vacuume pipes been replaced? iv found that sometimes the heat shrinks the aftermarket pipes and causes it to boost funny, sometimes its there n sometimes it aint..
Not a major problem bud, lol it`ll save you fuel tho :yes
Can\'t help with the twin turbo\'s as I\'ve only ever had one :D
But, it\'s a common misconception that you should leave these cars warming up and cooling down on your drive. This is NOT GOOD for your car.
Start it up....give it ten to fifteen seconds while you but your belt on, select your tunes etc and then drive off gently untill up to temperature.
I\'m lucky enough to have an oil and water temp gauges in my car, by the time the thermostat opens and I have 50 degrees of oil temp, nearly enough for full bananas.
When you have been driving your car, and you approach your destination, for the last 2 miles or so drive very gently in a high gear and when you arrive simply switch it off. Turbo timers are fine if you want to race and walk away, but a proper in motion cool down is MASSIVELY better for your car.
Enjoy :D
HTH :cheers
Welcome and be careful as its your first turbo motor the FD can bite. As above i start and drive as soon as the belts on, off boost for a mile at which point the temps are up anyway. Main thing on shut down is make sure the turbo\'s have spooled down before shutting off.
Kevin
I have a greddy turbo timer and i normally use it if ive been giving the car a bit \'o\' juice, is this not recommended? If so what time should i set the timer for?
Turn it off , drive gently for the last couple of miles and switch it off.
So i may aswell ditch the turbo timer? Awwwww, it sounds like pacman when i turn it on lol!
Quote from: Red and SingleBut, it\'s a common misconception that you should leave these cars warming up and cooling down on your drive. This is NOT GOOD for your car.
Start it up....give it ten to fifteen seconds while you put your belt on, select your tunes etc and then drive off gently untill up to temperature.
I\'m lucky enough to have an oil and water temp gauges in my car, by the time the thermostat opens and I have 50 degrees of oil temp, nearly enough for full bananas.
When you have been driving your car, and you approach your destination, for the last 2 miles or so drive very gently in a high gear and when you arrive simply switch it off. Turbo timers are fine if you want to race and walk away, but a proper in motion cool down is MASSIVELY better for your car.
I 100% agree with this, if you don\'t believe this works and Turbo timers are th way forward sit and watch your Power Fc\'s Water temp. you will notice if the cars idling (stopped) the temp creeps up, now drive slowly round the block off boost and you will see the temp drop rapidly. Next test after you turn off keep the ign on and watch the water temp, because there is no flow through the engine the temp will go through the roof (thats why you run the temp down)
Warming up, as you say no problem in driving it cold just don\'t wot it untill the oil is at operating temp (it doesn\'t work properly when its cold)
Acording to the PFC the best way to turn it off is to run it down (1 mile off boost etc) pull up, turn your car off then leave the ign on so the rad fans are going, after 10 seconds restart and turn off after 10 seconds.
Sounds daft but acording to the PFC it cools down really quick.
right i can understand the water temperature gauge.
but i dont understand the oil temp as its always going up and down whilst driving.
at a stand still should the oil gauge be just below 4????
i will check the vaccum pipes regarding the 2nd turbo not kicking in and i might try replacing them any ideas where i can get hold of them from?
Quote from: safrx7right i can understand the water temperature gauge.
but i dont understand the oil temp as its always going up and down whilst driving.
Oil temp is always more important for the simple reason the oil is designed to work at a set temp, if its below that temp it will be thick (harder to push through the oil ways), have poor Lubricating properties and cold start devices (in the oil system) will still be working. The water system because of how its designed (uses a Thermostat to route the water away from the rad when its cold) will warm up Considerably quicker than the oil.
Quote from: safrx7i will check the vaccum pipes regarding the 2nd turbo not kicking in and i might try replacing them any ideas where i can get hold of them from?
It may be worth your while reading this as well (will give you more options) http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm
Quote from: GrizzlyAcording to the PFC the best way to turn it off is to run it down (1 mile off boost etc) pull up, turn your car off then leave the ign on so the rad fans are going, after 10 seconds restart and turn off after 10 seconds.
Sounds daft but acording to the PFC it cools down really quick.
This makes sense.
The fans cool down the coolant in the rad.
Then when you start it again, it draws it into the engine.
sorry to sound daft but how does the oil temp gauge work
what mark level should it be ready on so i can go for a blast?
I think you\'re referring to the oil pressure gauge. This does not show temp.
Also, be very wary of the water temp gauge, as it only moves once its up to temp when the engine has overheated. You should get an aftermarket gauge or power fc and command.
Quote from: safrx7sorry to sound daft but how does the oil temp gauge work
what mark level should it be ready on so i can go for a blast?
I think you are mistaking the oil pressure gauge for a temp gauge bud, i would estimate once the water temp reaches say 78oC wait another 5 mins for the oil temp to be sufficent for a blast :Thumbs-up
The standard gauge in the dash is the oil pressure gauge not temp one :Party
Hello and welcome mate.:Party
Quote from: safrx7sorry to sound daft but how does the oil temp gauge work
what mark level should it be ready on so i can go for a blast?
As all ready pointed out if you are referring to the Oil temp (aftermarket gauge) and not the stock pressure gauge on the Clocks the best way of telling when its warm is go for a drive for say 30-40 minutes drive carefully on the way back and make a Mental note of where the gauge is, Thats roughly the Position you can say your car is Properly warmed up and you should get it as close to that mark as you can before you Hammer it.
The warm up is one of the Things that stop me fitting an EWP (electric water pump), i had one on my Turbo 2 and it really did slow down the Warm up Procedure.
right i went for a 30 minute drive
1. the water temperature reached around 100c is this normal?
2. the thermostat coolant gauge stayed in the middle
3. the gauge above the thermostat with 0, 4 8 with an icon of a little petrol can holder in on kept moving up and down i guess thats the oil pressure.
after driving for 15 mins and the water temperature moved to 85c the 2nd turbo kicked in beuatifully with a huge pull.
then i took it steady for 10 mins and then i blasted it again but there was no pull in the 2nd turbo after that. the temp was 100c
tried a couple of more times again but still no major g force
i just cant get me head around whats going on.
Quote from: safrx7right i went for a 30 minute drive
1. the water temperature reached around 100c is this normal?
2. the thermostat coolant gauge stayed in the middle
3. the gauge above the thermostat with 0, 4 8 with an icon of a little petrol can holder in on kept moving up and down i guess thats the oil pressure.
after driving for 15 mins and the water temperature moved to 85c the 2nd turbo kicked in beuatifully with a huge pull.
then i took it steady for 10 mins and then i blasted it again but there was no pull in the 2nd turbo after that. the temp was 100c
tried a couple of more times again but still no major g force
i just cant get me head around whats going on.
The icon shows a little oil can. (the one that goes down more tha up is the fuel gauge :Santa ).
That second turbo should boost all the time once its warm. There are a lot of little vaccum pipes, solenoid, valves and air tanks that control the Turbos, so its usually one of these small components failing that causes the Turbo to not come on line. Not so easy for the DIY man to diagnose, though.
thats what i thought the second turbo has to come and play all the time once its warmed up and not when it chooses to itself.
right do u reckon i should get mazda dealers to have look at the
vaccum pipes, solenoid, valves and air tanks for the second turbo problem as i dont know any1 local around here.
or r the dealers a waste of time??
I would guess WGT in Middlewich, Cheshire is the nearest specialist mate. Mazda dealers don\'t have the best reputation when it comes to rotaries...
LockWood is right. Mazda dealers see so few RX-7s, they are pretty clueless when it comes to diagnosing the FD Turbo system.
WGT is highly recommended.
anyone got a tel number or a website address
i might need to book something in for them bcoz it defo needs cheking out
any one got a tel number or website address for them
google is your friend...
http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk/
booked it in with http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk/ (http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk/) monday at 1.30pm for a diagnostic test on the 2nd turbo and a compression test.
hopefully they can find out what problem is and fix at another date.
will keep u updated
Wow i just joined the fourms they other day and i have to say ive been after an RX 7 for a long time still in process of saving for my 3rd gen, I have to say this fourms by far have been most helpfull to new comers. I have checked out other fourms and they seam be be like little familys no real room for new people.
Back to the point it makes sence about the oil heating up and cooling down, as oils not like water makes sence why it takes longer. Thanks guys learning new stuff all the time. :)
right i took it to wgt on monday and he said he found a boost leak in the pipes. he then tightend all the pipes up. the car felt much faster and stronger than before.
the car was working fine yesterday nite but today again i am having the similar problem as before.
2nd turbo not at full strength no major g force being felt in the car.
do you think the pipes have gone loose again?
any help would be appreciated.
i have called wgt but the guy is not available he is dealing with a customer so waiting for a call back.
Whereabouts in Lancashire are you? There\'s a few of us around the Chorley / Preston area... Any idea which boost pipes were loose? Could be worth replacing them or at least the fasteners. You should post some pictures up or something, alternatively make your way over to a local meet, we\'re contemplating a meet in Garstang later in the month.
Other than the boost pipe did Pip find anything else?
Oh and hello!
FLATT4MATT let me know the meet up date im not far from preston.
left a message for pip waiting for a call back yet regarding what he fixed and found out.
what i have noticed is the when the water temp sits on 80c the cars turbo seems fine both of them. but when is starts hitting 100c then i get a problem with the second turbo and hardly any boost.
i have to sometimes drive it on dual carrigeway to reduce the temperature but when driving in traffic temp will hit 100c
can any1 explain this
There\'s a lot of discussion on dates and venues for a new Northern Pub Meet over on this thread... Click Here... (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41586)
Quote from: safrx7what i have noticed is the when the water temp sits on 80c the cars turbo seems fine both of them. but when is starts hitting 100c then i get a problem with the second turbo and hardly any boost.
i have to sometimes drive it on dual carrigeway to reduce the temperature but when driving in traffic temp will hit 100c
can any1 explain this
mine runs steady around 82c except in slow traffic then goes to 95c before fan kicks in & it drops down.think there is a sensor that can be adjusted to kick the fans in earlier or it might just be part of the power fc settings - not sure but someone will advise you