ok first i would like to say hi to all.
2nd im cr*pping my pants coz im about to go against all my knolage of engines and manufactror!
ok a little as to why i need help and why im here,
Ok all my driving life i have owned performance toyotas, celica gt 1995, celica gt-4 cs St185, 3 mr2s.
now im about to swap my mr2 g-lim at 175bhp for a rx-7 gen 2 turbo 2 (was after a celica gt-4 again how i ended up with the gen 2 i dont know!) im a lover of all jap late 1980 and early 1990 cars espesh cheaper sports cars, supra, mr2, rx-7s ect ect compared to the deablos and testarostas ect ect.
ok where to start from what i know the gen2 rx7 has had a full engine re-build about 40k ago, is standard except an exhaust dont know what make but cost £700+,
first few things should i be pi**ing my self that it had a engine re-build 40k ago, i have hurd that these fc\'s can go to like 100k with no probs in standard form but am a little on edge at most engines a ive had celica gt-4 head gasket went, mr2 engine big ends went, noisy head on my trd mr2 and now tuch wood the only safe one has been my current one but thats had lots of engine work done by me!
also i dont want to go crazy with the power but im after giving the mr2 tubbys a run for what they are worth and an rx7 at only 20bhp less that the same year mr2 im happy, so what mods can be done to keep the relicability and lasting of the engine as well as get a bit more grunt?
i already have a hks air filter coming off my mr2 to go on, and would very much like a bov back not crap*y baliey one want hks ssqv or something,??
sorry message is so long! p.s. i have a good knolage of engines how they work as well as the rotary and do alot of work my self,
Hi Bob,
There are many things to do, and if you are not carefull you will keep on spending! Check the list below for what I recommend to be the best things to do in terms of reliability and performance.
Reliability:
Coolant change yearly
Oil change 3000 miles, or every 2 months. (This is not expensive as you must only use a stone stock mineral ie castrol GTX)
Spark plugs yearly
Mods:
- If you run an open filter and cat back, you will just miss the fuel cut(unless on a cold evening) you will need to rectify the boost cut to go any higher than 10psi. Boost creep with these breathing mods will take you there.
- ECU....might sound abit drastic, but changing the ecu early on to a Microtech LT8 will solve several potential problems. For one you will get a new engine loom, meaning that the crappy hard old stuff is binned. You will be able to run a full exhaust system without worrying about the boost cut. On a good tune, your engine should produce an extra 30 odd horsepower at the same standard boost pressure.
For a good readup and reference go to http://fc3spro.com/TECH/tech.html and navigate with the left hand blue options.
Regards,
John
Double post.....
ok thanks, i totaly understand the ecu change, im use to mr2 turbos tuning and there the same my mate has a rev3 turbo and people dont beleive me when hes getting 280bhp from it for just power fc ecu fully mapped, air filter, de-cat and full exhaust, and running less boost than standard, but i totaly agree ecus let you map every single rev and point,
well as i said its got a full exhaust on it already, not sure about a de-cat but will find out, and its going to have a hks mushroom air filter on or pipercross viper,
as for the service stuff i do all my servicing every 2 months or 3000kph as it is (my car still goes up in kph not mph) and oil it only ever has castrol gtx or gtx magnetex,
sweet well thanks for your help so really need to do an oil change and plugs ect strait away once i have picked it up and then save for ecu, any idea of what the ecu will cost and to have mapped? as i know the power fc is about 1k fully fitted and mapped.
well i feel a bit happyer that you ant said walk away or that 30-40k after engine rebuild youve gone arrrrrrrrr lol
just 1 lat thing would i be able to fit a fcd? and raise the fc point from say 10psi to 12psi so that if i did hit 10 on a cold day it wouldnt hit fc and then run lean and then cause probs like detination ect, not saying yer rase the fc point to 20 so i can run load boost only thinking of moving it up by 1 or 2 psi, as i know fc on an mr2 turbo will cause detination then its a new head job (guessing on rotary would destroy the apex seal and blow the engine that way!??)
if you are running full decat and induction kit then you WILL need a FCD of somesort ( either one that plugs into the pressure sensor or one in a ECU )
to fit a apexi into a FC is £££££££££££ - but you can go Microtech , Haltech , Wolf route
it all depends how deep your pockets are and how much you actually want to spend
there is a Apexi for the FC but they are really really really rare - or you can fit a early FD one with a wiring harness from the states and a different sensor ( cant think off the top of my head )
if you have a search for apexi in the FC section i started a post about it
Microtech is a good option and quite cheap. Mapping is reasonably easy. Haltech is a slightly better ECU, but a lot more costly.
well my budget isnt massive but its getting bigger,
like said i know power fc are £1k for mr2 turbos bought and fully mapped and i dont have that kind on money, + the few £200-£300 you need on the mr2 aswell,
like i said even in the long run i wont be looking at big mad power 250ish, i have to keep in mind my insurance and also i have to drive this car most days, from what has been said 230-240 is fairly easy with few mods which is all im after my other half will scream if i turn up in a car like my last mr2, car looked crap but the engine was supercharged 3s-fe unit bit loud for her!
i mean the basic setup ive run in the past is:
full de-cat and exhaust, pipercross viper, fcd, upped boost by 3-5psi and a few other odd mods like bov ect,
like said what sort of price would i be looking at for a Microtech?
I have got them direct from Australia for about £550 for the LT8s
That does include shipping no taxes though
ok i just found a few and wondered what you thought a blitz one that says pc-23710t and 45898 on it with description
used item for Jdm Mazda Rx7 FC3S 89-91 S5 Blitz Ecu
will fit to only FC3S S5 89-91 wiring harness with Bullet Style Air flow meter
Ecu Modified By Blitz japan , Specilize in Editing rom in Japan
Ecu Lable As N374 , for TURBO FC3S 89-91
better ignition timing and fuel curve ,
will gain like 15 to 20ps by just installing this ecu .
ecu mapping are match or pretune to use with Stock injectors and airflow meter .
manual 5 speed ecu
and a border one but bit sceptical as the pic of one shows the c crosses out a a d writen there so insted of fc3s its got fd3s? soz i have know idea of things when i comes to ecus!
thing with any of the re-programmed stock ecus (Panspeed and Knightsport are common) is that they are not normally re-mappable and we have lower octane fuel here, I\'d be cautions of chipped ECUs. The other option is the Greddy E-Manage piggy back ecu
ok no probs thanks
N374 is the FC version
i have one - just not yet fitted it yet :(
ok have been doing some more resurch and looking more and more like a greddy e-manage is on the table as i can get a full kit with
| Description | Part # |
| E-MANAGE piggy-back engine management unit | 15500500 |
| INJECTOR HARNESS (for main and sub. inj. control) | 15900901 |
| IGNITION HARNESS (for ignition timing control) | 15900902 |
| SUPPORT TOOL, program CD w/ spl. cable | 15901001 |
all in for £250
but im not sure if this is everything i would need for what i want??
as want to be able to control the fuel ignition and boost but have the flexability to play with the boost and to add more mods in far future and higher bhp, as said before im going to be hitting fc with the mods on now and only want about 250bhp but would like to have a boost controler, other thing is it would be quite nice to do what i always wanted and be able to hook it up to my laptop and change the boost via the ecu rather than a boost controler,
i have worked it out and i have about £400 to spend but need to inclde into that a roading road for the set up!
speak to prof on here, he is having fun installing his e-manage at the moment!
^ what he said !
With the E-manage, you are still using a \'band-aid\'....
email me at arty26we@yahoo.com and I can pass on some advice/info
John
hi all thanks for your help having a few probs finding parts for the fc3s, lol internet dont show you just what you want you get all the crap too! lol
ok im looking for a fcd (Fuel Cut Defensor (http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/77.htm)) i have found a knight sport one for $75 but cant find out if they can ship it the knight sport one is a fbcd for running higher boost and moving the fcd up other option for about the same price is a chipped knight sport ecu this i would prefer as the ecu is set up to run with higher boost than just tricking the ecu! only prob is the ecu clames to run 1 bar boost or 14 psi and i know the stock turbo and inter can only deal with 12psi, my budget went down alot after i had to pay for a big repair bill on my drift car so i only got about £150 at max but getting hacked off as i cant have fun with my car coz if i do i hit fcd and i dont like doing that!
soz to be a pain in the ass i just found a guy who will sell me a knoght sport chip to go into the ecu for about £15 how hard are they to fit? i can solder very well have made my own circit bord ect before and i also know a few people who can solder too other option how much would it cost to have it fitted?
Quote from: billybobboothsoz to be a pain in the ass i just found a guy who will sell me a knoght sport chip to go into the ecu for about £15 how hard are they to fit? i can solder very well have made my own circit bord ect before and i also know a few people who can solder too other option how much would it cost to have it fitted?
The ROM in the stock ECU - 28 pin chip, is soldered directly to the board.
It\'s only a few screws to open the case up, then if you flip the logic board over - the one with all the larger chips, you can see the ROM towards the centre of one side. I just cut the legs off next to the chip, then using small pliers or tweezers, you can unsolder each of the legs in turn. I then soldered in a 28 pin socket - a \'turned pin\' one is best because it grips the pins better and doesn\'t allow the chip to spring out. Then insert your new chip and away you go.
This link shows an aftermarket ROM chip that\'s socketed
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29946&page=8&highlight=start (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29946&page=8&highlight=start)
ok sweet if thats all you have to do then im sure i can mannage that cant be as difficult as trying to re build a blown amp!
looks like ill do that then for now and then next month get a propper ecu if its only going to cost me £15 for a chip!
Quote from: billybobboothsoz to be a pain in the ass i just found a guy who will sell me a knoght sport chip to go into the ecu for about £15 how hard are they to fit? i can solder very well have made my own circit bord ect before and i also know a few people who can solder too other option how much would it cost to have it fitted?
Please don\'t do this, BillyBob! You will gain very little, but will run a high probable risk of blowing your engine. Did you send me an email?
John