Mazda Rotary Club

let us know what the fit is like please

well ive got a koyo rad at work  and they look the same other than the koyo is about 5mm smaller in thickness otherwise its the same, spot on

hi scratchies
im currently dropping a rebuilt engine into my fd i decided to upgrade the cooling so i got me one of those rads as well. I was impressed with it when i recieved it, quality was good i bolted on the fans tonight though and had to modify it a bit, some of the holes didnt line up properly i hope its a good job when cars back running again, let me know how you get on with yours,if you  get it on your car first  tell me if your temps are down as it\'ll be 2 wks before im back on rd (waiting on engine mount) cheers

not sure mine will be first as think i need rebuild as it just stopped sat night didnt strat again then did sunday since has been allright so doing the save of money for the job porting and single tuby

Let us know what the temps are like when you have it fitted.

It  looks nicely made. Please let us know how stable the temps are during driving too, i.e what happens when you drive at 30 MPH, vs 70 MPH. Also long uphill vs long downhill etc.

I had a custom radiator made, which meant a lot of re-arranging stuff in the front of the bay. You first picture shows exactly why I had one made to my design:

Th FD radiator has its bottom hose roughly a third of the way from the left of the bottom tank. In my opinion, the water flow will enter the top at the right and take the shortest path to the outlet, leaving the left third of the radiator not contributing much to cooling.

Now look at the top tank - the top left has a much smaller volume further restricting flow. It seems to me that the FD radiator therefore is only effective over about two thirds of its width at best.

I haven\'t measured temperatures across the core on an FD one, so this is only based on my sitting in the workshop and looking at it for a few hours. Plus of course the hopeless temperature stability of a stock FD. I know that many people are using the stock design replacements, presumably without lots of overheating! My interest is in how this one performs as a reference.

I now have a design with uniform symetric side tanks and the hoses at top right and bottom left. Temps are 84 at any speed, and a rise of 1 degree idling for an hour if the A/C switch is used to run the fans.

Keith

Im Told By Someone Who Has Aready Fitted One That The Temps Does Not Go Above 80.3  When Driveing  And When At Idle It Goes Up 82.6 Across All Of The Rad Becuase Of It Being An Alloy Rad It Diserpates The Heat Faster But You Can Get The Temps Down Lower By Removing The Water Pump Ect And Running Electric Pump Which Has Been Said That The Temps Come Down Even Lower But The Engine Temp Will Still Stay At The Usual Coz Of The Thermostat Controling It Ect So I Think Its A Much Of A Much  All No Is That Better Than A Stock Rad As It Thicker And All Alloy

I think most people are more concerned about under load figures, Most people that are upgrading are into motor sport and FD\'s are renound for the temps to climb when you are giving it WOT round a Track.

There is a write up that i saw a while back basically saying a well ducted Stock size alloy rad is as efficient if not more than some of the single pass twin cores (mainly because of how the rad slows the air down as it passes through) In my opinion i\'d be looking at a twin pass rad (if you are going to upgrade you might as well by a top end one and get the best Possible gains)

Quote from: scratchiesIm Told By Someone Who Has Aready Fitted One That The Temps Does Not Go Above 80.3  When Driveing  And When At Idle It Goes Up 82.6 Across All Of The Rad Becuase Of It Being An Alloy Rad It Diserpates The Heat Faster But You Can Get The Temps Down Lower By Removing The Water Pump Ect And Running Electric Pump Which Has Been Said That The Temps Come Down Even Lower But The Engine Temp Will Still Stay At The Usual Coz Of The Thermostat Controling It Ect So I Think Its A Much Of A Much  All No Is That Better Than A Stock Rad As It Thicker And All Alloy

Electric pumps are not really good for the road, i\'m sure i don\'t need to tell you that an Engine is designed to run at an Optimum temp there is a reason why Mazda Fit a Thermostat, all the bad things in a motor is caused when its Cold so The Thermostat is Use to warm it up as quick as poss, remove this and it takes an AGE to warm up. This is why you see Race cars with Pre heater on the engine.

Quote from: GrizzlyElectric pumps are not really good for the road, i\'m sure i don\'t need to tell you that an Engine is designed to run at an Optimum temp there is a reason why Mazda Fit a Thermostat, all the bad things in a motor is caused when its Cold so The Thermostat is Use to warm it up as quick as poss, remove this and it takes an AGE to warm up. This is why you see Race cars with Pre heater on the engine.

i agree but just saying that other do this ie on track race cars not to sure what temps he trying to get down too as there will always be heat if he not moving not sure if he\'s getting that

I think that the best advantage of electric pumps is that you can arrange for them to run for a while after the engine has been stopped. This way you can keep the coolant moving to cool the engine and avoid heat soak. Also, it keeps water moving through the turbo and cools that gently. A stock renault I owned over 10 years did this - it took me a while to realize what the noise was every time I stopped the car.:3Confused

I know at least one person who has removed an electric pump recently and put the stock pump back on due to a lack of flow when under high load.

Keith

Quote from: scratchiesi agree but just saying that other do this ie on track race cars not to sure what temps he trying to get down too as there will always be heat if he not moving not sure if he\'s getting that

Its not so much what the temp drops to but more of a case of what it constantly stays at under load (ie. Track work, The amount of Hp you run also makes a big difference and position of Ic etc) The idea being you can hammer it for as long and as hard as you like, sit in trafic etc etc  and your temp will never go above 86.

kbareham, Out of interest what Renault did you have? I was really into 5 Turbo\'s at one stage and renault did some odd things to that to stop the fuel Evaporating off from inside the carb :(

so what is the difference between a twin pass rad and the rad scratchie has bought??
thanks

ok this is fairly simple, on a standard rad you put the water in the top and it finds the easiest route out the bottom (hence the inlet and out let are usaly on opposite corners), a twin or Triple pass rad works as the dia shows below, the idea is to use as much of the rads surface area as poss to make it as efficacy as poss.

Hey Grizzly, where would I get a bad boy like that???

Koyo N-flo, I\'m sure there going to be more expensive than the one being promoted on this Thread but they are the most efficient rad out there (tried and tested). I bought mine of E-bay about a year ago now so i can\'t remember which vender  got it from.

I supose it all depends on what you want?? But for me if i am going to go through all the trouble of upgrading and use it for Track etc i want to know its the best (hence all the reading up i did at the time) and its not going to split when the going gets tough and kill my motor. But that said for road use it may work fine so you pay your money and take your Choice.

Cool, heard about the N-Flo and I\'ve asked about one from a US eBayer (love the current exchange rate!) but see if I can get it through with less duty maybe, then it\'d be a bargain!

Sounds like the N-Flo is the way forwards, I also agree, if I\'m upgrading then may as well go for something decent at the same time, speaking of which... Silicon water hoses? Worth it?

Quote from: Grizzlyok this is fairly simple, on a standard rad you put the water in the top and it finds the easiest route out the bottom (hence the inlet and out let are usaly on opposite corners), a twin or Triple pass rad works as the dia shows below, the idea is to use as much of the rads surface area as poss to make it as efficacy as poss.

yes this rad does do a triple past like this pic (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34002&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1188159775) (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34002&d=1188159775)

Sorry which rad? i know the godspeed isn\'t a triple pass as i have seen one first hand before the tanks where welded on. (pic below is a godspeed rad)

You only really see Triple pass\'s on the more expencive top end stuff because the end tanks have to be welded on in sections to fit the blanking plates (makes it more expencive to produce due to the extra labour etc) there easy to spot too as the end tanks have extra welds across them.

Quote from: RemarkLimaspeaking of which... Silicon water hoses? Worth it?

I personaly like to use new Mazda Hoses but as long as you buy Named Hoses and not the realy thin ones you see on E-bay you will be fine.

Thanks man, new Mazda hoses it is :D

Hi, I take it this rad has no facility to take the AST tank? Are there only two large outlets on it? Thanks.

hi rossgal
i\'ve one of these godspeed rads,i noticed that their is no return pipe for the ast on the rad, i took it to a coded welder he bored and welded a piece of pipe for me £20 sorted, running the new engine in shortly let yous know what temps are like when engine is at full potental.

water temps don\'t go above any norm temps but the fans only run 1/3 of the time that they did my when sitting still when moving the rad temps drop to low 40/50  not had any probs at all i did need to mod a little coz it didn\'t have the small return nail pipe to go back to the ast so where the pipe should have been they had put a mounting point for the fan cover that didn\'t need to  be there so i drilled and taped 1/8 bsp water tail into the mount which worked really good as it gave alot of body around it  unlike on the standard rad

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but Im about to fir one of these rads and Im wanting to sort the AST return before I start the fitting process. I dont suppose you can post a pic of where you attached the fitting can you please? Many thanks.

AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PIC IPUT ONE IN THE TOP OF THE RADAND I ALSO GOING TO PUT ONE IN THE BOTTOM AS I HAD ALREADY FITTED IT IN WHEN I FOUND IT WAS\'NT THERE ,I WILL USE THE TOP FOR A BLEED IM NOT GETTING ANT PROB WITH THERE JUST THAT IN THE WAY FOR ME  HOPE THIS HELPS  IF YOU NEED THE FITTING I CAN SORT THAN OUT, YOU WILL JUST NEED 1/8 BSP TAPE THATS WHAT I USED YOU MIGHT LIKE TO MAKE IT A BIT SMALLER  EMAIL ME IF ANY PROB OR RING   THANKS  STU (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p9/scratchies_photos/000_0145.jpg)

Cool thanks for the pic. :Thumbsup!