Is there anyone in the Essex (near southend) area, who has a engine hoist I could boorow for a day?
I need to change my engine mounts before rotorstock.
Matt.
An easy trick if you get stuck. Undo the 2 bolts that hold the engine mounts to the subframe. Put a bit of wood on a trolley jack to protect the gearbox and jack the gearbox up. This should lift the engine out of the mounts enough for you to get in with a socket and undo the 3 bolts that hold each engine mount leg on.
Done this a few times.
So, take the whole leg off change the mount off the car and the re-bot the leg back in.
Is that what your saying?
Is it okay just using a jack? do you really need a engine hoist?
as bobster says, you dont need a hoist
What mounts are you puting in?
If you are puting solids in then you will probably have to get another steel leg as the passenger side leg is made from alloy and the rubber is only bonded on. This is why the passenger side is usually the one that will fail. The drivers side leg is made from steel and has a hole through it for the bolts to go through. You can grind and drill the alloy one but personally I wouldn\'t, as it will weaken the alloy.
If you are replacing with standard mazda mounts then you will need to take the legs off anyway.
This is why it is much easier to take both legs off the engine and swap the mounts out of the car.
Like I said you can just jack the gearbox up with a trolley jack. This will lift the engine high enough to get in and remove the 2 legs.
they are standard Genuine Mazda ones.
Thanks for the help, sounds alot easier then I thought now.
Glad you dont have to mess around with hoists and stuff.
Good news, shouldnt take that long then!
:Thumbs-up
Quote from: Matts-gen2Good news, shouldnt take that long then!
:Thumbs-up
Famous last words lol
Just had a thought! Well on an FD when replacing the mounts with solid ones you re use the arms but do you re use the metal clamp that wraps around the mount?
I didn\'t use them last time. It is easier to glue the solids to the arms with silicone or some kind of goo.... Think they clamps just fall off from memory, solids are slightly shorter as they do not compress like the rubber.
I do wonder if my engine actually sits higher?! Got some solid ali ones from stillway in japan and used the metal clamps so they\'d stay in place. May well take them off now as thats at least 2mm!
Just to check, are the 3 bolts that go through the sump in blind holes or do i have to drain the engine oil? do i have to use a sealer of some kind to seal the bolts in the sump? Cheers Bob
No you should be okay... the 3 bolts go into the rear iron... there is no oil behind them.
I got everything lose and ready was worried about the bolts that go through the sump and have clearly not read the last post about these 3 bolts.
When i jacked the box up various washers crash landed as i removed the mounts.
I have two odd washers, one small and one larger with a dirty groove marking ( one off the drivers side ) , can anyone tell me where these two go?
i.e. between bottom of mount and subframe, on top of mount and under bracket?
Help needed as car on axel stands now.
Matt
All sorted, worked it out. Had to step away for 5 mins. Help disapeared, done it alone.
Bit akward trying to align two mounts together and lower jack, but pressed on and now i can find second gear much better.
Drivers side mount was split all way round with about a 3mm gap!
Everything feels tighter, so worthy of taking in to Rotorstock now!
:Thumbs-up
Cool glad you managed okay ...told you it was easy ;)