right i have a standered rx-7 all that has been dont is an exhaust, what things need to be done to get it up to aroung the 400 bhp? I think 400 is a nice power to have on the road dont want to go to mad at the moment but was just woundering how much would be involved?
cheers gary
ok
well for one are you talking about a wheel figure or flywheel figure.
eveyone will have different opions on what you should do.
as it does depend on what maintance costs you can afford
I would say the importants things are:
Apexi ECU or similiar and commander
Exhaust
Intercooler upgrade
Upgraded Clutch is a must /flywheel would be a good idea
Injector Upgrade
Boost Controller
Spark Plugs and leads 10\'/11\' and magnecor leads
Fuel Pump
Turbo Timer just for looking after turbo\'s
Water injection is a good idea IMO
Please bear in mind the stock turbo\'s don\'t like running much more than 0.9-1.0bar therefore going to a single tub is a good idea but not necessary.
That should see you getting close to your required figure (Basically pretty much what I have)
I would like it at the wheels but thing ill have to settle for it at the fly atm, that would still be around 350 at the wheels tho wouldnt it?
i have a turbo timer already and an exhaust bit i only got from ther cat to the end, im still running a standered cat would i have to change this?
i dont really want to change the turbos atm but i will in time, what sort of figure do you think i would be looking at? i would to the work myself (well what i can) i know i would need a map ect...
cheers
ok I would suggest you buy an Apexi ecu as you first mod. as it will be needed when you add any other upgrades to your car. Please make sure this is tuned by a pro as rotary\'s can be very easy to make mistakes with if you don\'t know what you are doing.
then once you have that sorted remove the cat and get a down pipe
then a boost controller is always a good idea.
then intercooler otherwise your inlet temps will be high
then some 850 injectors (THINK PRIMARIES ARE 550 SO REPLACE THEM) as they are cheap Also Spark plugs will need to be changed and magnecor leads wil help an awful lot.
obviously clutch will need to be done when you up the boost
I run a similar set up and have seen 300@wheels
but now have a more free flowing exhaust and a large street port and ligh flywheel so am hoping for a little more
it will be enough for you till you go single turbo
If you want 400 rear wheel power you\'ve got to go single and get rid of the twins.
T04 or T78,just naming two for example.Those turbo\'s linked with all of the above mention bits will give you that easily at fairly low boost.
Get rid of the cat as well n go straight through.. Might want to concider street porting or even a half bridge done.. All extra cost,but the engine will respond soooooooo much better.
Get your cheque book ready for a complete beating!!:evillaugh :D
another option is the mods above and a small 25-50bhp nos shot, if its setup correctely then it will be safe to use :) save u going to street porting n single tub at the mo, a 2nd hand wizard of nos kit will be about £200 bud :)
GT35R with all the other goodies.
buy an aston
How many beer tokens do you have to spend........:wave
Quote from: WarthogHow many beer tokens do you have to spend........:wave
^^^^^^^^^^^ that my friend is the million dollar question ^^^^^^^^^
you need to decide what you want to spend before you do anything
Well not sure how much i want to spend really im goiong to do it oer a few monts anyway, think im going to get ecu and then go from there.
Waat is a half bridge? i was told befor not to go the d-cat rute but to go high flow or sports cat, not sure why just told tht was the best way??
Wasn\'t by someone in the MOT business was it? or someone who goes on tracks quite a lot?
All much of a muchness....go straight through, no probs there...
A half bridge is a type of porting....however the bridge/half bridge port is something you wanna do if you\'re going to go crazy end of the spectrum....I know someone with a full bridge port.....and a huge fuel bill....:chat
Like people have said here it depends on how deep your pockets are, how much you use your car and what your ultimate goal is instead of chasing figures.
It\'s good to have an idea of how far you want to go but 400 is one of those middle fig marks...
I know because this is exactly what I had in mind when I started....I had everything to run 400 atw on twins (because I didn\'t want any lag) then I realised how many boosting problems you can get with twins at that power....think I lasted 4 days before I said, "That\'s it, get me a T78"......
Doing it over a few months will drive you nuts and cost you mapping money in the long run....
Get an Apexi and a straight through...
maybe an FMIC too....
Then try to do the rest in one go....otherwise the money you think you\'ll save will go on the re-maps...
Hope this helps...
Quote from: m4drxbuy an aston
hahaahahaa
agreed with all the guys above.
no need for a CAT just make sure you use the right MOT places that know how to adjust your apexi ;-)
1/2 bridge is a type of porting - for an explanation of what porting is and the different types have a look here: http://home.iprimus.com.au/bluey3/portsPage/ports.htm and here: http://rotaryengineillustrated.com/how-a-wankel-rotary-engine-works/ports-intake.html
I have a 1/2 bridge in the FC and it is streetable, a little lumpy on idle and yes it can be thirsty, but that is very dependant on the mapping of the ECU.
If I were you, I\'d go for either a big streetport or a 1/2 bridge, an Apex\'i PFC, FMIC, uprated injectors and fuel pump and a boost controller for starters. You\'ll find that you are right at the limit of the stock twins and you\'ll be on full boost earlier than before (with the porting), but that should see you with some nice power levels, the next step would be going big single (or even bigger, non sequential twins ;) )
Cost is the limiting factor though, to do the above properly you be looking at about £3000 (that\'s if the engine is in good nick when it is taken apart for porting - if it needs a rebuild add another £1.5-2k)
Sell yours and buy one already done
Will be a much cheaper option
QuoteSell yours and buy one already done
Will be a much cheaper option
But not always the best as you never know what\'s been done...
Thats why I like to buy mine standard and then start....you can\'t trust someone else has taken the time and effort you would have....
you dont need a turbo timer! Turbos are water/oil cooled! It needs to cool down by driving it slowly last 4-5 min.
Quote from: toyzRusyou dont need a turbo timer! Turbos are water/oil cooled! It needs to cool down by driving it slowly last 4-5 min.
i have to agree with that, sitting still idling doesnt cool anything down really hardly any oil pressure anyway.
if you have time to drive fast then you make time to cool it.
until they invent ones that take it round the block a few times not quite worth it tbh