I\'ve had my rex for nearly two years and I think I\'ve only topped up the coolent once, when I pull the "dip" stick out its allways been above full.
On other cars I\'ve topped up all the time, so is this normal?
If it ain\'t broke,then don\'t fix it!
Regards
Carl
i WISH i had that problem !
Forget about the water level on the wing and the AST and just check the one on the engine.
I have known cars that have had NO water in the engine and the rest of the system and yet the dip stick still shows full !
Quote from: cliveForget about the water level on the wing and the AST and just check the one on the engine.
I have known cars that have had NO water in the engine and the rest of the system and yet the dip stick still shows full !
Thats what I was concerned about. I\'ll see if I can check the level through that tank.
Cheers
Bloomin typical, 2 years I\'ve had the car and today she overheated, add coolant light cam on, steam and the job lot.
WARNING to anyone, do not trust the filler level! Mine was showing as over full but I\'ve put in 4 big jugs of water after the above happened. Thankfully she seems ok now.
Quote from: cliveForget about the water level on the wing and the AST and just check the one on the engine.
I have known cars that have had NO water in the engine and the rest of the system and yet the dip stick still shows full !
I\'ve put in about 6lt of water so far and its still not up to the top of the tank on the engine (yes the water one before you say owt)
How much should I put in? Just keep filling it to the top?
The capacity is 8.8 L according to the service manuals. You sure you\'ve not got a big puddle of water under the car? Can\'t believe you\'d be able to run it with only a couple of litres in the system prior to top up so wondering where that six litres has gone...
You dont put any water into the tanks at all, you put the water in the middle cap on the engine. Have you put coolant in too?
I got this from Geoff at RE Worx today after I enquired:
"Just fill the middle filler. The tank on the left (with the dipstick) will expell excess water if the system is over full which is why it may of looked low when you checked it."
Quote from: teabaggerThe capacity is 8.8 L according to the service manuals. You sure you\'ve not got a big puddle of water under the car? Can\'t believe you\'d be able to run it with only a couple of litres in the system prior to top up so wondering where that six litres has gone...
No puddle, it did spit a load out when it overheated though. The wing tank is still overfull! Its must be blocked in someway and not feeding the rest of the system.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7You dont put any water into the tanks at all, you put the water in the middle cap on the engine. Have you put coolant in too?
I now know to fill up in the cunningly labeld "DO NOT EVER OPEN" tank.
No just water, but I\'ve put approx 6lt of normal water (from the local pub). I can now top it up to the brim with antifreeze and that should give me a good mix.
Every few times I start my car now I\'m getting the add coolant light and buzzer for about 3-4 mins even though the temp is low (ie just started from cold) Any suggestions? Air lock? Whatever is wrong with it it will get propoerly looked at soon as I\'m going to get it to WGT.
Quote from: teabaggerThe capacity is 8.8 L according to the service manuals. You sure you\'ve not got a big puddle of water under the car? Can\'t believe you\'d be able to run it with only a couple of litres in the system prior to top up so wondering where that six litres has gone...
BTW I have a water temp gauge, other than when it over heated its always been fine 80-100deg. I\'m also confused how its run with so little water in for so long!
Quote from: RochoI now know to fill up in the cunningly labeld "DO NOT EVER OPEN" tank.
You dont fill this tank. You take the metal cap off to the left of that cap, and fill it there.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7You dont fill this tank. You take the metal cap off to the left of that cap, and fill it there.
I\'ve just checked another memebers engine, I filled the correct one, someone has switched my caps around :)
So the sprung cap was in the middle and the flat one on the AST tank to the right?
Thats why your loosing water. It\'s all being sent to the expansion tank!
Sprung cap goes on the AST, and flat one on the metal filler neck in the middle. (Unless you have my setup where i don\'t have an AST! :D)
Quote from: teabaggerSo the sprung cap was in the middle and the flat one on the AST tank to the right?
Yes they were.
Its booked in to WGT on the 19th so she\'ll get a check up then.
Went to WGT and I have exhaust gas in the coolant system.
For the virgins out there that means from my little episode above she is now booked for a £2.5k+ rebuild. And to top it off my power plant had snapped into three costing another £300, and then I managed to leave my f…ing laptop there meaning a 4 hour round trip to pick it up.
Oh you just can\'t imagine how happy this makes me, especially considering as this engine is 9000km on its current rebuild.
So just to re-iterate to anyone out there please please take note of this...
The level in the driver’s wing water tank with the dip stick means nothing.
(From WGT)
To fill...
1) Take main cap and AST cap off,
2) Fill the main (middle) with coolant until the AST is just over half full, put the AST cap on,
3) Top up the main water fill on the engine and put the cap on.
The round cap goes on the AST and flat one with \'ears\' goes on the main tank on top of the engine.
Quote from: RochoSo just to re-iterate to anyone out there please please take note of this...
The level in the driver’s wing water tank with the dip stick means nothing.
(From WGT)
To fill...
1) Take main cap and AST cap off,
2) Fill the main (middle) with coolant until the AST is just over half full, put the AST cap on,
3) Top up the main water fill on the engine and put the cap on.
The round cap goes on the AST and flat one with \'ears\' goes on the main tank on top of the engine.
That\'s bad news mate, but is a very common problem with these engines. Still it is even worse in your case being as it was supposed to have been rebuilt less 9000km ago. You could always save yourself £2500+ by rebuilding it yourself. It\'s not that bad to be honest. I did mine about a month and half ago for the first time and drove to germany round the nurburgring 14 times and back with no problems. Mine died with water seal failure too. All in it cost me about £800. All new internal seals + springs, reused housings,plates.
Is the car still loosing water? You might be able to still drive the car round even if the water seals are gone. It will just carry on loosing water and wont really do any harm to the engine. Obviously the worst it get, the harder it gets to keep the temps down. It will just get worse over time, but might be ok for a little bit longer untill you can scrape the cash together. I think once it gets to the stage of blowing clouds of white smoke and out the exhaust and misfiring because of wet spark plugs, it\'s definitley time to get rebuilt.
Its using about 1cup per week.
I had no idea there was anything wrong with it, it drives as good as it ever did. WGT say that over the next few months it will get worse so I\'ve got it booked in mid august. I didn\'t fancy breaking down in the middle of no-where and having to pay for a tow so I\'m going to use it as little as possible.
If I put my mind to it I could probebly do it myself, the only thing is it would take me bloomin ages and I would be really paranoid about doing something wrong and mesing it up even more (in fact that is exactly what would happen!) So I\'m just going to bite the bullet and get it sorted.
The slightly annoying thing is that its going to be expensive, but I know that whilst its in bits I should spend a bit more and get a few mods done at the same time. Pip said that he will make some recomendations when its stripped down but I was considering having the wastegate ported, I dont like how long it currently takes to vent when trying to go through all the gears, am I barking up the right tree? I\'ve currentley got a Blitz dump valve on the 1st turbo, 2nd goes to the stock air box.
Basic so far (and want to keep it fairly standard)...
3.5" exahaust (decat)
Apexi ecu - will be mapped post rebuild
Robbie, do you mind sharign where you bought all the parts from for your rebuild ???
@ the moment im on the look out for a 2nd hand engine that i can rebuild my self then put in the car once all sorted.
then once i know that one is good im going to rebuild the one i take out and sell that ???
any info you can give me mate will be much appreciated.
Teighto@hotmail.com is my addy :D :D :D
also did you use a Guide/manual when doing the rebuild??
im prob gunna end up getting the DVD set and follow them ??
again any help is appreciated
Just out of interest, How many miles has it got on the clock? I dont understand what you mean by the the time the wastgate takes. It sounds like you may have some other problem with the vacume pipes or a sticky solenoid somewhere. I think folks only port the wastgate when going non sequential but im not 100% on this.
55k
I\'ve not driven any other rexs to this maybe normal...
Basically when I\'m setting off at the lights, the boost is about -0.8bar goes to 0bar it pulls off great, into 2nd same again pressure released -0.8bar goes to 0bar and pulls great, but when I get to 3rd and upwards it dont seem to drop back down to -0.8 very quickly, I have to stay off the accellerator for a good 1.5secs+. So I just keep my foot down to accellerate and it stays about 0bar.
Its not propoerly mapped, thats what I was going to WGT for originally! But it was pretty much the same when on the standard Jap ECU execpt it went to 0.3bar.
Robbie - I ahve some how lost your email, i still need the Stuff could you email me again please ??
Chris
Teighto@hotmail.com