Been trying to get my engine back together and one of the studs that holds the exhaust manifold on had come out as the nut on it sheared.
re:worx said I should be fine with a replacement (non Mazda) stud...only problem is yesterday it snapped whilst trying to torque up the nut :( Needless to say, stupid expensive Mazda replacement stud is now ordered from Gary!
It\'s not good I keep snapping everything! Otherwise my engine would probably be completely back together now.
go easy on the new ones eh :) you must have been swinging on it too much :D
Quote from: probedbit snapped whilst trying to torque up the nut :(
Perhaps it wasnt up to the job then...a stud shouldnt just snap when being tightened down on if its right for the job :(
Quote from: probedbIt\'s not good I keep snapping everything! Otherwise my engine would probably be completely back together now.
If too much power is used then you could also break your finger whilst it\'s stuck up a fly\'s ass :spank Take it easy dude,there is tight and F.Tight :Thumbsup!
You are using torque wrench right? The mazda tourqe specs feel like nothing on a torque wrench .
Yep....torque wrench, the max torque for them is 57 lb ft so I just did them to 55. The 3 Mazda studs are fine, the other snapped :( Been putting everything back together as per the service manual so using the torque settings from there.
Bugger....
No... I hate snapping stuff!!
Hopwfully I\'ll be ok when stripping my block!! Argh!
somthing to consider as well, Is the torque wrench reading correctly?
Mine reads about 10Lbs high
Quote from: TracNGazsomthing to consider as well, Is the torque wrench reading correctly?Mine reads about 10Lbs high
Yeh couldn\'t agree more. A torque wrench is only as good as its calibration. Having worked on numerous aluminium engines over the years I got in the habit of getting my wrenches calibrated. Admittidly I got it done at work for free, but I would still make the effort if I had to pay.
Bob
Might have to see if I can find anywhere to do it. It\'s always a possibility!
If you\'ve snapped a bolt at 55lbs its not because of bad advice its because of bad bolt choice mate! There\'s plenty of cr*p hardware out there, you need to watch where you buy from. Bringing Reworx into it doesn\'t really help Rex owners in general as now when anyone asks for some advice from an expert in order to save some money they\'ll feel inclined to say \'use the (expensive) OEM stuff\' because of getting bad publicity when someone buys a poor quality non-OEM item.
They recommended it! How is it my fault if I buy something from a specialist and it doesn\'t work, just how is that my fault exactly?????????
Sorry didn\'t mean to sound like I was slagging you off in that last post. I just get a bit tired of the tuner politics on the forums. Where did you get the bolt from then, Reworx? what make is it. You\'re post here and fduk.org sounded like you had just asked them if it should be ok and they had said a non OEM one should be fine?
I know how you feel by the way. I\'m trying to avoid any in depth jobs on my Rex as when I work on cars I always end up breaking things that I can\'t budge! I\'ve had a mission with my BMW this last few weeks. Ended up putting it on Ebay because I was so p*ssed after rounding a bolt off and wrestling with a shock container for about 4 hrs to no avail!
No worries matey. I\'m not trying to slag off re:worx as they\'ve been helpful, just not with the stud ;) I did originally ask for the Mazda one but was told the cheaper ones would be fine for that and the studs that the downpipe attaches to....tho they need about half the torque of the exhaust ones.
The nut is Mazda OEM as are pretty much most of my replacement parts, used Malloy Mazda in the US but they charge a flat $55 shipping fee which isn\'t worth it for one stud but if you buy a lot of stuff it works out far cheaper than anywhere over here.
Same here....I\'ve got to a point where I wish I\'d just have taken it to Pip or Ross and said swap these over please and paid them money :)