I\'m hoping to bring my RX7 to Super7Autos sometime this week when they reply to me or tell me to bring it down.
I\'ve got a list of problems I\'ve written below. If anyone knows what the problems are, please advise :)
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Problems:
The car itself manages to flood itself in a strange way. The car will be easily startable once it has finally started (tow start/clean plugs EGI out etc) and not turned off until the engine has cleared. Once the car is off, it can be extremly easy to start for the next few hours.
If I leave the car overnight, the car will not be startable in the morning. There is no coolant leakage into the engine, and the flooding appears to be souly oil related.
I have checked the spark plugs on several occasions before starting when this has happened and have found they are soaking with about 80% oil on them, and the other 20% fuel. No coolant on them what so ever.
I put new sparkplugs on the car (HKS Iridium Racing Plugs) and it solved the starting problem for a short while, since they are new and haven\'t been prolonged to the excessive oil causing damage.
Anyway, the engine compression is fine, and the tips are fine and everything in the engine itself is ok, the problem is just the weird flooding its doing.
Also, another related event (I guess), is that when I rev hard/medium, the car will act odd trying to go over 2500/3000rpm. There will be loud poping and banging (like misfiring but not exactly that) from the exhaust and the car will not increase in rev (like its dieing), and you can see clouds of smoke which shows to be oil, and smells exactly like burned oil. I\'ve been notified that the OMP (Oil Metering Pump) needs to be changed to rectify this problem? Is this correct?
Just wanted to also say, the engine has recently been fully rebuilt with Street Porting. It had a APEXi ECU, but right now it has the standard ECU (I\'m not driving it, its just parked until I get another APEXi).
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Main Problem: :P
Does anyone know how much this should cost to fix? And what the problem is.. is it actually the OMP causing both problems?
Thanks <3
~Joeh
First port of call if its just had a rebuild is take it back to or contact the engine builder. You say compression and tips are okay how was this checked?
Regards Kevin
why aer you using really cold plugs if youre having starting troubles.... you should be looking to run warmer plugs like 7s and 9s. or 9s all round.
Does the car actually rev over 2500-3000 or does it hit a imaginary limiter?
Yeah they are called RACING plugs because they are probably better for RACING than the road. Get some NGK 7\'s and 9s, and it should help, if not eliminate the flooding problem. I doubt it has anything to do with the Oil metering pump.
the poping and banging is due to excess fuel going into the exhaust and igniting :) sounds kewl lol... but like the guys above say, change to 7`s n 9`s or 9`s all round and you`ll be fine bud.
Rx7 are overfueled as standard, keeps them from detonation if they run lean, wont cause any harm to the engine, jus yer fuel bill a be a tad worse :evillaugh
Well, I think the popping and not revving is because the ECU is in "limp" mode, - it has sensed an error somewhere, a sensor unplugged perhaps.
1)Remove battery terminal
2)Press brake pedal for 1 sec.
3) Reconnect ECU
this resets the ECU, - of course, if you have a faulty sensor it will go straight back to limp mode.
But sometimes it clears it and it will be fine after that.
if you fit the apexi the commander will tell you any faults in the sensors bud..
Quote from: one2watchwhy aer you using really cold plugs if youre having starting troubles.... you should be looking to run warmer plugs like 7s and 9s. or 9s all round.
Does the car actually rev over 2500-3000 or does it hit a imaginary limiter?
Yeah, the car doesn\'t rev over it, it hits an imginary limiter. Thats when the popping and banging starts....
If I rev very slowly (causing very little boost), I can rev above to about 4500rpm or a little more, but I can hear slight poping and banging and the car struggles to go any higher.
I was running the Mazda Recommended plugs (7\'s and 9s I think it was) and I still had a headache starting it. I still have the plugs but.. they are quite badly charred.
Also: The HKS spark plugs are 9\'s all round. (R45-RE)
Any ideas?
Quote from: interloper393the poping and banging is due to excess fuel going into the exhaust and igniting :) sounds kewl lol... but like the guys above say, change to 7`s n 9`s or 9`s all round and you`ll be fine bud.
Rx7 are overfueled as standard, keeps them from detonation if they run lean, wont cause any harm to the engine, jus yer fuel bill a be a tad worse :evillaugh
:( LOL! Thats not the case :O I have a straight through exhaust system (R Magic) and it likes to shoot flames... but :O!! Its pops and bangs shooting out clouds of oil when I hit the imaginary rev limit as one2watch said :( Makes me feel like I\'m hurting the poor thing ;__; *cries*
Heyhey! Can I see the paintjob on your car ? :D *totally irrelevant* I was watching it through from the beginning until the rain started D: but I caught up with the progress since... I\'m guessing its done now right?
Quote from: MartinyWell, I think the popping and not revving is because the ECU is in "limp" mode, - it has sensed an error somewhere, a sensor unplugged perhaps.
1)Remove battery terminal
2)Press brake pedal for 1 sec.
3) Reconnect ECU
this resets the ECU, - of course, if you have a faulty sensor it will go straight back to limp mode.
But sometimes it clears it and it will be fine after that.
I thought the same thing. I\'ve reset the ECU too many times to remember. It works fine for a couple of revs after resetting, but then it goes back :(
I\'m hoping to get an APEXi again, but I really can\'t afford it at the moment. I\'d borrow one for 5 minutes if I knew from where >__<;
Quote from: kev-yorksFirst port of call if its just had a rebuild is take it back to or contact the engine builder. You say compression and tips are okay how was this checked?
Regards Kevin
I have a friend at mazda who borrowed the tool for me... very sneakily... D: I hope I didn\'t get him in trouble... I think it was between 90psi to 100psi on both rotors or something, I can\'t remember.
When I turned over the engine without plugs in, I found a good clear pattern of air compressed and thrown out of the spark plug holes. If it was missing a tip, I would have noticed something different in the pattern etc.
Unfortunatly the engine builder is in Japan :(
Is there anyone in London near Golders Green / Temple fortune who would be happy to lend me their APEXi for a few minutes to check my sensors?
I\'ll happily pay for that :)
ma threads updated a bit,.. slow progress the now as iv got tons on at the mo :(
Quote from: interloper393ma threads updated a bit,.. slow progress the now as iv got tons on at the mo :(
Just had a look! Very nice I must admit! I like the smoked lights too :O!
Its very time consuming isnt it? I bet you\'re enjoying it though!
There is a thread on here somewhere about pulling the codes...
this sounds like leaky injectors to me...
rmaj
if the car wont rev over 2500-3000, then it sounds like car is in limp mode. You could try pulling the codes...or my advise would be getting it down to a specialist so they can figure out whats wrong!!!
I\'m going to pull the codes in 5 minutes from now... Just looking for some LED\'s .. I think I\'m going to snap them off some old motherboards I have lying around :)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22704&highlight=error+codes
This is what happens with me...
Anyone think the solution is related?
Ok! Some progress!
I managed to solve the problem with starting, The car starts on my command without bitch slapping it :)
Problem now is I can\'t get the error codes thing to work.
I connected TEN and GND *There are 2 GNDS on the diagnostic box* but I didn\'t connect both GND to the TEN. But anyway, it didn\'t work. I didn\'t get any flashing light on the dash when ignition is on 3. Something I\'ve done wrong? Or is it because my model doesn\'t have Engine light or something? Do I need to do something else?
Thanks
Joeh
look in technical stickies near the top. you need to use a diod. tells you all about it cheers phil
Ok ! I pulled these errors:
11 L S Intake Air Thermosensor
open or short circuit
27 LL SSSSSSS Metering Oil Pump Sensor
open or short circuit
or MOP sticking
54 LLLLL SSSS Air Pump Relay
open or short circuit
My airpump is removed! Do I ignore the error, or did the idiot who removed it make a mistake and forget to do something?
ignore the airpump error code.
The omp error code is the on id be worried about. if your omp aint doing its job, you better stick some premix in the car as a start to make sure its safe to drive... then get it checked out!!
The car is with Jason now :)
I hope he doesn\'t kill me with monies ;__;
He said something about the wiring loom probably has something wrong o___O when I heard that I partually ignored it because I know its fine.. but some small wires are cut next to the ecu which I joined back, thats all...