Ive got a non-turbo.
Ive had the heat exchange removed and replaced with a straight through pipe, its got stainless y-pipe and back boxes, and it will have a K & N panel filter (when it arrives!).
Can my car be rolling roaded and tuned on the basis of these minor mods?
Matt
Yes, as long as you have a tuneable ECU
As far as Im aware the ecu is standard, and looking through the history its never been changed.
Any idea how much a tunable one would cost and what a good one to get is?
Matt
TBH - as the FC has an AFM the mods you have done dont really need a remap, the AFM is capable of making the corrections. If you really want to squeeze the max out of it then you will be looking for a microtech - but you will then need to add some parts from a TII to get it all working. :wave
What parts will need adding?
Any suggestions of any other relitively simple mods?
Ive heard you know your stuff on the FC front?
Any idea about hunting on idle?
Does the car still have the main thermal reactor? (A large fat tube that the down pipe comes from)
I have some experience with the n/a :) A hunting idle could be many things, from a sticking butterfly in the throttle body or the idle speed has been set too low? Its worth checking the whole of the inlet system for leaks too. (Check everywhere AFTER the AFM)
Is the idle dropping then bouncing back up again? What rev range is it hunting between?
You are looking for an idle of around 750rpm - the idle adjust screw is underneath a rubber cap on top of the throttlebody.
the thermal reactor has not been removed.
it drops then goes up again, between about 800 - 850 rpm. Just hunting when on idle.
When should the idle be adjusted, when warm?
Can the butterflys be lubed / oiled?
Matt
Adjust the idle once the cars at temp. Is it only hunting +/-50rpm?
somewhere between 50 - 100 rpm.
750 is the normal level it should be on then.
I do have an occasional problem (rarely) when i start up, revs go up and up, it needs a little blip on the accelerator then it drops and stabilises again.
Try adjusting it down to 750 and see if it holds there. I occasionally had idle probs on mine that were eliminated with a little tweak of the screw. The car should idle at around 1500 when cold, then drop to 750ish when warm.
If the revs continue to climb I suggest you investigate the armatures arond the throttle body - paying particular attention to the cruise control lever, I\'ve known this stick and cause the throttle to be stuck wide open.....
Ensure everything is freely moving (some of the pots only move at temperature) , also ensure the oil control arm is free to move as well. (Rod that come from the front of the throttlebody and dissapears downwards.
:wave
I dont suppose you have a picture you can send me of the parts you\'ve mentioned.
I will check them over in the next couple of days with the haynes manual and hopefully it should sort itself out.
Thanks for your help.
Matt
are these parts around the rear of the throttle body easier to access if the bonnet is removed?
Not really! You can get to most of it I think, try the simple stuff first. Might be worth hooking up a vacuum guage - that will tell you if theres a leak in the inlet.
okay, i get investigating. ill try and source a vaccuum gauge, would the same effect be achieved by spraying something around the inlet manifold and listening for a change in tone?
Matt
Maybe, a vac guage will give you a clearer indication I would have thought.
Okay, thanks.
Had a look last night under the bonnet and found that the oil control arm was etching away at a metal bracket :Nono!, creating a deeper groove, so i adjusted that and its now more free. :yes
AND ....
There was a breather pipe that had come off, on the left of the engine below the inlet manifold and above a heat shield (opposite side to the spark plugs). The pipe was knackered, so cut a new piece and re-attached it.
NOW
It sounds smoother on idle, doesn\'t drop at all, seems morte responsive, and idles less irregularly. :Thumbsup!
Thanks for all your help.
Im glad it was something silly!!!
No problem - sounds like it was the breather for the air control system - any unmetered air getting in will upset your idle - as you have found out!
Good job on getting the oil control arm sorted too - that little problem has killed a fair number of EGi\'s over the years!
:wave
Il just keep a good eye on it, check regularly.
Would that breather pipe not being attached cause the spark plugs to go white and crusty ( as the old ones i took out were) ?
All I need now is a strut brace and engine mounts and might take it up Santa pod for a 1/4 mile!
Here you go, this site will give you a bit of info on how various problems can manifest themselves on the spark plugs - http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp
Are the plugs white and flaky or just white?
But yes, if the engine was getting unmetered air it may have been leaning out, causing excess heat which can bake the plugs, and will lead to more problems than you want to know about!
Well im glad the idle issue has been sorted 1 day after fitting new plugs!
Matt
:)