Righto, I finally replaced the oil cooler lines, filled up with oil and gave the car a coolant change.
Everything was going fine.
When I first started the car there was quite a bit of black smoke from the exhaust, but that cleared up. I thought possibly because there was a tad too much oil in the car? Or possibly because it hadn\'t been started for a week?
Drove down the road, the cooland buzzer came on so I immediatly stopped and put more coolant in (this was right after the cooland change). I then drove about 2miles. Stopped, topped up again.
I then drove another mile or so, but when I was coming home I was doing about 30mph on a up hill in 4th, but had no acceleration, just at the top of the hill the car cut out.
Apart from that, as far as I could tell, the car was working fine.
I tried to turn it over a few times, but nothing and the battery was totally dead.
I went and got a new battery today. It turns over (slowly mind), but again, it won\'t start.
My initial assumption is that it\'s flooded? No idea why it cut out in the first place though.
Any ideas??
I\'ve got new plugs to go in anyway, so I\'ll do that and hope for the best?? I\'m just hoping it all fires up when I replace the plugs!
If it was just a case of it being flooded, could I just chuck it down a hill and bump start it? Is it likely to work? I have a big hill here, but don\'t want to get to the bottom of it with a dead car. lol.
Try towing it to start, then see how it runs.
no toe eye!
Starting after a flood
Crank the car over with your foot flat to the floor. Soon enough it will start, very smokey while it clears.
So you don\'t need to take the plugs out etc, etc??
How long should I let it crank for with my foot to the floor?
I\'m gonna use some jump leads so it doesn\'t drain the battery.
Sounds like you have fouled the plugs. With all the short jouney runs the car would of been on warm up (running very rich). Try heating the plugs in the flame of the kitchen hob for 5 minutes whilst boosting the battery (they come charged, but not fully). Whilst the plugs are out run the engine with the EGR fuse out.
Good luck.
PS. Next time you change the coolant, remove the hose to the throttle body (back right corner) and force the coolant in with an upended large water bottle until it flows out. You will never hear the buzzer again.
Crank it over with the fuse out. Replace the plugs and try to start it? (I have new plugs sitting waiting to go in).
Does cranking it with the foot to the floor work? (without taking plugs out etc)
First try cranking with your foot to the floor whilst starting it. If this fails, take the plugs out and have a look if they are fouled. If fouled you can heat them up in an oven or use a heat gun, then use a bit of sand paper or wet & dry to clean the top of the plugs and get all the carbon off. Whilst the plugs are out, take the EGI fuse out and crank the car with your foot down to get all the excess fuel out of the chambers. Put old or new plugs back in and the EGI fuse. Crank the car with your foot down and it should start.
It\'s raining outside!!
As soon as it calms down a little, I\'ll try starting it with my foot down and see what happens.
When the rain stops I\'ll remove the plugs etc. Hopefully all will be ok! It\'s been off the road the last few weeks, was looking forward to getting it sorted again!
Rain bah, get to it Mr !!
Alright!!!!!
Gonna go put the overalls on! lol.
Will connect the golf up to make sure the batt is ok. Will try cranking it over with foot to floor. Then (depending on how heavy the rain is), I\'ll do the plugs!!...
geeze! ... lol
good man, dont be afraid of a little water !
hope it all goes well squire
Righto!!!
I can\'t get the ruddy spark plugs out!!
I took the elbow off etc, pulled off the top spark plug that you get easy access to, and the bugger won\'t budge!!
Argh?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!
I also can\'t get the jack under the car where it is just now! Where I previously had the car jacked up was a different bit of road.
I tried to push the car onto the pavement where there\'s a recess so I could then jack the car up so I could get them from underneath. But no... I\'m not the incredible hulk, I couldn\'t get the car up there on me todd. lol
So... anyone got any bright ideas how to get the plugs out???
If the car is flooded, can you get it going by push starting it?
the standard jack is low enough to get under a lowered car with skirts,.. well i cn anyway :P
howzit :)
you can get at the plugs from up top without removing anything, its tricky but can be done :) or it is easier from below
usually they dont start with wet[fuel] plugs even with towing :(
best bet to remove plugs and disconnect the spark from the little silver box on side of guard next to abs and crank engine over then reconnect silver box put clean plugs in and try and start :)
or remove the EGI fuse next to battery crank over with foot flat on pedal for a bit them put fuse back in and try and start
hope helps
later
glen
Quote from: interloper393the standard jack is low enough to get under a lowered car with skirts,.. well i cn anyway :P
I didn\'y try standard jack. Was just using scissor jack under the skirts to try and get it up a bit for the trolley jack.
Quote from: drutinhowzit :)
you can get at the plugs from up top without removing anything, its tricky but can be done :) or it is easier from below
usually they dont start with wet[fuel] plugs even with towing :(
best bet to remove plugs and disconnect the spark from the little silver box on side of guard next to abs and crank engine over then reconnect silver box put clean plugs in and try and start :)
or remove the EGI fuse next to battery crank over with foot flat on pedal for a bit them put fuse back in and try and start
hope helps
later
glen
I\'ve removed the eblow etc. So I can get access.
I just need to get them out so I can get the car going again!!! lol
jim u get better access to the plugs from underneath m8
Yeah? Was just having some jack issues today.
I jacked it up fine the other day, but today the jack wouldn\'t fit under!! It was on a different bit where I park tho.
Should hopefully sort it tomorrow or I\'ll go mad.
I good bit of brute force should hopefully get the plugs out!!
Well, changed the plugs today and it didn\'t start.
Chucked it down a hill and it did start. When I got back up the hill though it stalled?!?!?!?
Now it sorta wants to start but just can\'t manage it... lol. A bit better than before tho.
Gonna remove the plugs again tomorrow and keep them out overnight. In the hope that any fuel will fook off! ... lol.
The old plugs were totally done in! Black as anything and stank of fuel! I think when I get it going and keep it going for a bit it should be ok. Just pull over and keep the revs up!
When it did start it was running like a bag of shat! But at least it was running.
Oh the joys!!!
If there\'s anyone who\'s local and willing to give me a hand??
hate to say this, but it sounds like no compression
Just out of the blue? What makes you think the no compression?
cause you can start it when being bumped, ie spinning fast it will catch, but dies on idol.
Yeah, but it\'s just been flooded.
I\'ll see what happens when I bump start it again. Will keep it reving for a bit and hopefully let it sort itself out.
I\'m Mr optimistic anyway.
just seems unlikely that you can drive it twice for a short distance and it still stalls because of flooding, especially on new plugs, flooded engine on new plugs should run flood free pretty dam quick I would have thought.
I\'ll get me fingers crossed
I only managed to get about 30seconds of driving tbh before I let it stall.
I\'ll be crossing my fingers too... lol.
If I get it going how long should I keep the revs up before I let them settle and hope everything\'s ok?
Sorry thought it was longer than that, but keep the revs going for a couple of mins, that ought to sort it.
maybe your starter motor cables came off? its at at back passenger side??
if the cars prone to flooding, after a short journey when you stop put it in neutral, rev it gently to about 3000, then turn the ignition off and put your acelerator foot to the floor, it will stall two of three secs later. Can\'t be much excess fuel in there after that!
It\'s only the second time it\'s flooded. Not a regular occorance.
Yeah RotaryArt, it was only about 30seconds of driving. Started it on the hill, got to the bottom and turned around (nearly stalled), then back to the top where I stopped.... and stalled.. lol.
How would you recommend keeping the revs up while trying to stop? Because obviously I can\'t keep driving as it may stall at a junction etc. Just cruise along, rev the tits out of it and slam the hand brake on (while in neutral?).
Quote from: interloper393maybe your starter motor cables came off? its at at back passenger side??
Any piccys?
Good time to practise heel and toe
Heel and toe?... lol.
Using my right foot for both brake and accelerator?? Mmmm... could be interesting! lol.
My only concern is, I can\'t get to the bottom of the hill and stall. Or I\'ll never get it back up again!
will some hand brake wont hurt for stopping, just practise reving with brake and accelerator
Quote from: Jim_rx7Well, changed the plugs today and it didn\'t start.
Chucked it down a hill and it did start. When I got back up the hill though it stalled?!?!?!?
Now it sorta wants to start but just can\'t manage it... lol. A bit better than before tho.
Gonna remove the plugs again tomorrow and keep them out overnight. In the hope that any fuel will fook off! ... lol.
The old plugs were totally done in! Black as anything and stank of fuel! I think when I get it going and keep it going for a bit it should be ok. Just pull over and keep the revs up!
When it did start it was running like a bag of shat! But at least it was running.
Oh the joys!!!
If there\'s anyone who\'s local and willing to give me a hand??
This sounds like fouled plugs to me. Heat them on the gas and give them a gentle wire brush and squirt with carb cleaner. Once fouled though they need replacing.
Where are you? I would like to help. My number for a chat 07779 11 69 43. I went through this when I got mine. Rotary Art is right, low ish compression causes this.
regards,
Jonathan
i agree with gary unfortunately....i have the same problem with my fd althuogh it does always start when cold but never hot....try this,turn the key but dont plant your foot straight away,when you here the engine trying to catch buy just missing,give it full throttle! try this a couple of times and let me know if it starts!!
taz
hope it is just plugs jim
maybe try get car to mazda for a compretion test
first dibs if the engines knacked lol
I\'ve never had any problems starting hot or cold.
I hope it\'s just the plugs too. lol.
I\'m gonna try to start it later and see what happens. If I get no joy, I\'ll chuck it down the hill tomorrow and keep the revs up. Hopefully all will be ok after that.
These are the condition of the old plugs that came out the car.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00452.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00451.jpg)
Not very healthy looking huh?
Quote from: Jonathan_FThis sounds like fouled plugs to me. Heat them on the gas and give them a gentle wire brush and squirt with carb cleaner. Once fouled though they need replacing.
Where are you? I would like to help. My number for a chat 07779 11 69 43. I went through this when I got mine. Rotary Art is right, low ish compression causes this.
regards,
Jonathan
In in the south of Scotland mate. Td1 1rb.
I\'m open to any offers of help if I don\'t get this thing going today/tomorrow. I\'m free all weekend! :D
Hi Jim,
If you look here in the FAQ section you will find an easy way of checking that you at least have compression on all rotor chambers,
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3813
I am afraid that after reading this thread I think don\'t think as people are suggesting that you have low compression, I\'m worried you have actually lost a tip and this explains why it is running like a tractor when you eventually get it going.
Follow the link and check your engine to at least eliminate my fears and save you wasting your time.
If this proves OK and you still find nothing obvious like split vacuum or fallen off pipes you can always give me a ring one evening on 0795 729 5555 and I will try and help
I read that it\'s expected to run like poo when you first get it going. Bear in mind I did only get it running for 30seconds or so before I let it stall on me.
A tip?!?... Argh. lol.
Only time will tell.
So who\'s doing cheap rebuilds?? :)
remove 1 plug, make sure the lead isnt touching the chassis. i.e tape it up or something, remove the egi fuse and get someone to crank it over, you should here 3 pshhed noise and all will sound even, good sign if somethings wrong and do this with each plug..
just checked man your 2 hours drive fae me, if your havin no joy cn poss pop up this weekend maybe?
Ah! .... would appreciate it mate!!
I just remove the top plug on rhs, test it. Put it back in, then do the same with the other one?
I\'ll try to get it started first tho as remove the plugs were a logistical nightmare! lol.
Quote from: interloper393just checked man your 2 hours drive fae me, if your havin no joy cn poss pop up this weekend maybe?
Better get used to it mate. If it needs a rebuild, we\'ll become best freinds! lol. :D
Quote from: Jim_rx7Ah! .... would appreciate it mate!!
I just remove the top plug on rhs, test it. Put it back in, then do the same with the other one?
I\'ll try to get it started first tho as remove the plugs were a logistical nightmare! lol.
yeah n listen for anythin uneven or missing, good indication if a tips away..
Just out of interest mate... is yours a UK spec or a Jap spec car?
What engine management are you using currently? Standard ECU or the Apexi you got on the base map?
Mine is a 1993 UK spec FD. Had a few issues with mine on standard and Apexi base map management when running heat range 9 plugs all round. Dodgy idle. Tad lumpy, etc.
The plugs you took out were knackered. Fouled. Don\'t bother trying to clean them up. Replace with new. Use 9\'s in the trailing spark plugs ports. But I would strongly advise using the hotter heat range 7\'s in the leading ports. You\'d be suprised at how well and how much better the engine will run. And you will simply NEVER flood it again!!!
Well, I got out to the car and after a few attempts it started!! :D
I kept the revs up for a few minutes, the odd bang from the exhaust etc. But whenever I let it go anywhere near idle it would shake a little and want to stall.
So I kept the revs up for a little longer, again it would want to stall. So I let it!... lol. When it stopped I noticed a little steam/smoke come up from the engine.
It came form the top left of the engine. Above the turbo\'s area.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00393small.jpg)
Ok.... so my assumption is it\'s fookered??.... lol.
Anyone got any ideas, suggestions, or even if it\'s to confirm that it\'s fookered!!
ANyone also got any ideas as to why it\'s fooked? Or what\'s wrong with it?
did you do the crank test i said about?
sounds like it might be a leak then burst pipe
If you are running the Apexi on the base map I would suggest that is what fouled your old plugs. The base map runs rich to say the least. That is likely why you have been flooding easily too and that will also explain the lumpy idle and choking engine (stalling) symtoms. I bet you are running heat range 9 plugs all round.
Before you do anything or jump to any conclusions I would strongly suggest changing your leading to 7\'s. You\'d be very suprised at what difference this will make to the running of your engine. 9\'s shouldn\'t be used all round, even though most people do - as it was written in the Mazda manual. This was actually a typing error in the manual.
I get my 7\'s and 9\'s from Pettit Racing in the USA. Works out £5 a plug - NGK. VERY quick delivery also.
I had a very rough, spluttering idle on a standard engine and standard ECU, this was exactly the same when running the Apexi on the base map. Almost made the car shke and rattle. Putting 7\'s in leading and new 9\'s in trailing cured this straight away. I also replaced leads with Magnecors for good measure. And my compressions were and are mid 8\'s all round.
he not got an apexi hes on standard ecu i think
Sorry to sound negative, but I threw a tip on my TII (and on one of my gen 1s!) and the symptoms were similar, VERY lumpy idle, urge to stall at low revs and small amounts of steam/smoke coming from the engine. I hope I\'m wrong, but it does sound that way..... :(
You\'re on standard ECU? What modifications are you running on stock software?
Quote from: Tiger_kptYou\'re on standard ECU? What modifications are you running on stock software?
too many bud.. i wouldnt have fitted the bits he`s got without an apexi first, but i dont think thats the prob...
See how u get on and maybe i cn pop up at the weekend m8.. might even be in the rex :S :S :S :S :S
I had steam from the turbo area, mine was an engine water seal.
Is there lots of white smoke when you get it going
A water seal it the same amount of work as a tip job only not so expensive on bits if the tips are still OK.
John
Yeah, a nit smokey from the exhaust. Defo steam/smoke coming from the the turbo area.
Oh well... rebuild time it is then! Expect a million "How do I...." posts... lol.
I owuld get it properly diagnosed before ripping ht eengine out mate.
yeah could be a 5 minute job.. tow to WGT or somewhere? :)
Well hopefully another member is gonna be able to pop down at the weekend.
I wouldn\'t even want to think how much it would cost to get it towed to WGT?!
If I started it and drove off, giving it a good hammering, do you think it would be ok?? Just can\'t get stuck anywhere in the sticks with a broken down car.... lol.
tomorrow I\'ll do the poor mans compression test and also look out for any smoke etc.
Quote from: iaintWill it run if you keep the revs at ~1500 rpm?
If so then whack the PFC in, fiddle with the idle settings until it\'ll tickover.
Bad low-rpm idle is a classic sign of a chipped tip. Mine was crap so I upped the idle to 1100 and it was fine for driving home from Bruntingthorp and then over to Newbury!
At least you could get the problem properly diagnosed and know one way or the other.
It will run if I keep it revving. I\'ve got the PFC, but no commander! DOH!
Update :
While at work today, my freind had a look at the car (knows nowt about rotarys).
He done the poor mans compression test.
Took one top plug out, turned it over with the fuse out. Then put in and done the same with the other plug.
He said the chuff, chuff sound was regular from the engine. (that\'s a good sign right?)
He also said when he removed the plugs (only removed the top), they were soaked in fuel. These are new plugs I put in the other day, so obviously the thing is flooded still!! The car also refused to start today.
Friday evening or Sat, I\'m gonna remove the plugs crank it etc, and leave the plugs out overnight in the hope that any fuel will dry up.
I\'m just clueless here.
well im just thinking out of the box here. To get a engine to run you need compression, fuel(air and petrol) and spark. your saying you have compression, and you know you have fuel by the amount covered over the plugs, are your spark plugs actualy fireing, or fireing as efficantly as they should be? might be something to check.
you may also find that the compression is low initially as the petrol has cleaned all the oil out of the housings (petrol is a v good cleaner!). Remember the engine uses oil in the combustion process and as such, oil helps keep the compression up. Poor mans compression test is a little vague TBH, although it does show that it is unlikely you have thrown a tip.
you could add some oil into the plugs to help seal them a bit more..
Put some oil into the plug holes? How much?
Gonna crank it without plugs for a good few mins like you said mate. Then leave them out overnight and try the next again day.
Will probably remove them tomorrow.
Quote from: leonwell im just thinking out of the box here. To get a engine to run you need compression, fuel(air and petrol) and spark. your saying you have compression, and you know you have fuel by the amount covered over the plugs, are your spark plugs actualy fireing, or fireing as efficantly as they should be? might be something to check.
How would I go about checking if the plugs are firing properly.
Quote from: Jim_rx7How would I go about checking if the plugs are firing properly.
With the plug out, stick it into the HT lead, then hold the body of the plug against part of the engine as an earth.
Turn the car over and watch the spark :D
Oh, don\'t hold the plug body, hold the boot of the HT lead!
Dont even hold the lead! just let it lie on a metal part of the engine.
You should only need about 5cc of oil in each chamber.
Why do you put your foot to the floor when cranking it with the plugs and fuse out??
Just out of curiousity.
i dont know, thats a good question, if it had valves id say to blow the fuel out. but i dont know :Laugh
QuoteWhy do you put your foot to the floor when cranking it with the plugs and fuse out??
it sucks in more air, hence will do a better job in throwing out excess fuel in the chambers
Hi Jim,
I have a UK spec FD 93\' and had similar problems (except i had no steam from the engine bay). It was running fine one day, i then thought i would clean the plugs. I removed them, cleaned them and put them back in - the car then ran on only one rotor as i didnt connect the lead properly to the plug. Plugs out as i had now flooded it, cleaned and left over night. Plugs back in, and it wouldnt start. I tried all the above m,mentioned in this thread but the only thing to work was brand new spark plugs 7s and 9s. Started first time, a lot of smoke but that cleared, i didnt need to floor it or anything.
Also check you have not knocked the pipe going into the underneath of the MAP sensor off, as i did this and it made the car run terrible and it would have died if i didnt switch off. The MAP sensor is behind the plenum elbow, i knocked mine off when i removed the elbow...no not my elbow the cars!:Giggle
Hope that helps...?
Yeah, I already checked the MAP sensor. It\'s all ok.
I\'m gonna see what happens tomorrow. If I don\'t get anywhere I might even try with 7\'s and 9\'s. I don\'t know what were in previously, but I\'ve put 9\'s in now.
The steam thing... someone said it happened when his engine was dead. Another said the same thing had happened when he flooded his?
Only time will tell.
Foot flat to the floow whilst cranking turns the fuel pump off.
turns the fuel pump off? or stops the injectors from putting any fuel in? I thought it was the injectors it stopped?
well, the end result is there\'s no fuel going in! :p I thought it was the fuel pump, but it may be the injectors.
Righto...
I\'ve just finished removing the plugs, the fuse and cranking it over for a good 3mins!! I\'m gonna leave the plugs out overnight in the hope that any petrol will evaporate.
Here\'s the plugs I removed. Bear in mind these were new when I put them in the other day. (I have tried to start it since putting these in)
These are the top two plugs....
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/plugs1.jpg)
These are the bottom two....
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/plugs2.jpg)
One of the bottom ones looks pretty shagged to me!! This was just new.
So, what\'s your verdict people by the look of those plugs? Still flooded?
How should I go about sorting the plugs out before I put them back in? Just stick the blow torch on them to heat them up?
Any help appreciated!!
PS : Do I need to have the elbow on when trying to start it etc?
anyone? .... :confused:
You can start the car without compression elbow, should be ok, just don\'t rev it much
Heat up the plugs with your kitchen cooker hobs or blow torch, and scrub them hardcore, usually I use WD40 to clean mine.. helps quite a lot but make sure you dry them properly after.. WD40 inside engine Engine = Dunno if thats good or not :P so you\'d better not try it
They don\'t look like flooded plugs to me.
Are you getting loads of smoke? Could be your OMP - Oil Metering Pump.. could be broken and flooding the engine with oil :) you should try changing that if you can?! :)
Did you try a tow start?
Jim, those plugs dont look too bad, though it is hard to tell from the picture.
Put all your fuses back in to check for spark.You can check each plug if you want, but I think we are trying to establish if the ignition system is working, so, as long as you get spark on one, we can assume it is working.
Dont worry about the pedal while cranking, it makes no difference to the spark test.
We do care about the pedal when trying to start it. When the pedal is floored, and the key in "start" position, the computer stops injecting fuel. This can sometimes de-flood the engine if it is flooded.
By the way, flooded means there\'s too much FUEL in there, not oil. The fuel soaks the plugs and then the plugs wont fire. This is because the spark, instead of jumping the gap on the sparkplug, can now flow (from the electrode, the little pin in the middle), through the fuel that\'s soaked into the plug, (to the body, or earth), so there is no spark.
Yes, too much oil can stop a plug firing, too, but its usually the petrol on the plug that causes it.
The way I start mine, is:
1) Completely floor the pedal
2)Key on
3)turn key to crank for about 2 seconds.(hold that pedal down!)
4) let pedal go completely ( hold that key in crank now)
5)When it starts to fire, I just keep that key turned, even for about 1-2 seconds. (This is because I have noticed that sometimes that it will start firing, and you let go the key, and it dies, and THEN you have a flood situation!)
Let us know how you get on. If you like, send me a PM, and we can arrange a phone call.
Quote from: JoehYou can start the car without compression elbow, should be ok, just don\'t rev it much
Heat up the plugs with your kitchen cooker hobs or blow torch, and scrub them hardcore, usually I use WD40 to clean mine.. helps quite a lot but make sure you dry them properly after.. WD40 inside engine Engine = Dunno if thats good or not :P so you\'d better not try it
They don\'t look like flooded plugs to me.
Are you getting loads of smoke? Could be your OMP - Oil Metering Pump.. could be broken and flooding the engine with oil :) you should try changing that if you can?! :)
The plugs are the new plugs mate. Only been in a little while trying to start. The old ones were soaking!! These were wet, but my mate had dried them, put them back in, and I took them out. (without trying to start).
Quote from: MartinyJim, those plugs dont look too bad, though it is hard to tell from the picture.
Put all your fuses back in to check for spark.You can check each plug if you want, but I think we are trying to establish if the ignition system is working, so, as long as you get spark on one, we can assume it is working.
Dont worry about the pedal while cranking, it makes no difference to the spark test.
We do care about the pedal when trying to start it. When the pedal is floored, and the key in "start" position, the computer stops injecting fuel. This can sometimes de-flood the engine if it is flooded.
By the way, flooded means there\'s too much FUEL in there, not oil. The fuel soaks the plugs and then the plugs wont fire. This is because the spark, instead of jumping the gap on the sparkplug, can now flow (from the electrode, the little pin in the middle), through the fuel that\'s soaked into the plug, (to the body, or earth), so there is no spark.
Yes, too much oil can stop a plug firing, too, but its usually the petrol on the plug that causes it.
The way I start mine, is:
1) Completely floor the pedal
2)Key on
3)turn key to crank for about 2 seconds.(hold that pedal down!)
4) let pedal go completely ( hold that key in crank now)
5)When it starts to fire, I just keep that key turned, even for about 1-2 seconds. (This is because I have noticed that sometimes that it will start firing, and you let go the key, and it dies, and THEN you have a flood situation!)
Let us know how you get on. If you like, send me a PM, and we can arrange a phone call.
Cheers mate. I\'m gonna check for spark, then attempt to start it today.
Have you got the leads the right way round mate?
Ones with white marks to the left, others to the right? If facing them side on from passengers wing. Blue leads on top, black at bottom.
that right?
Well this is a diagram i drawed up when stripping my motor.
That means nothing to me mate.
You near your car?
I\'m sure white striped ones goto the left and blue plugs at the top.
Anyone confirm?
blue at the top, black at the bottom.. cant really go wrong bud, the cables are on the same side as the plugs..