Hi Guys,
Check this for job escalation! I was just fitting a 10mm fuel line front to rear when this happened::2Confused :D
My first look at the rear end of my \'93 FD3S and its in good shape. Found that the sills are quite rusty in front of the rear wheel so that needs some work. Also found that the rear calipers were getting a bit sticky so I\'ve rebuilt them. Absolute pig to put the sprung cup back over the handbrake adjuster spindle inside. I do not recommend anybody attempts this on their own!:Grrr If you want to replace the boot and seal though, its a very quick job.
Polished up the pistons and they are now much smoother in their operation. Should improve the pedal feel a bit. I used spray hammerite for the calipers. Looks reasonable. Wouldn\'t it be nice to be able to fit some chromed alluminium calipers instead.
This discs are pretty corroded on the back. There is a chap down the road who will skim discs for a fiver so I\'m going to take fronts and rears. (the fronts are slightly warped). I found a lot of corrosion behind the discs which i\'ve stoned off with some WD40. That could of made the discs run eccentrically. Its worth a look if your bored. A brush with copper grease afterwards should prevent the rot returning.
During a previous wheel alignment I really struggled to get the rear camber adjusters to move. 12months later and they are really solid. I\'ve sheared one and twisted the other. Does anyone know of a pair of these knocking about?
I advise anyone packing them in grease, or at least spraying them with WD40 next time your under the car.
The rear subframe was corroding away nicely so I\'ve dropped it off to be shotblasted and powdercoated. Likewise the steel brake lines are a bit fluffy. It\'s an MOT failure so I\'m going to change them. i\'ve found a company Automec (.co.uk) who sell decent 0.9mm wall copper/nickel brake pipe and all the fittings and a decent looking pipe flaring tool. While I\'m replacing all the hard lines I\'m upgrading to goodridge braided lines. Anybody know the cheapest place to get these kits from?
I\'ll post some more pics when its all painted/repaired/machined!
I\'ve gotta be honest, this job has got massivly out of hand, but it will pay dividends in the future....I still havent found a source for the fixed and flexible 10mm fuel line and fittings either!!! Anybody?? I\'m not using braided, OE don\'t use it and its very expensive. I think well clipped and retained pipe runs are the key. I\'m doing away with the carbon canister fuel return to the engine and using it for the water/methanol injection from a tank in the spare wheel well.Obviously replacing the steel line with some nylon.
I have a giant fuel filter to position as well. Its from VW Golf G60\'s. Its designed to last 90k before needing to be be replaced. And if I blow through it its about twice as free flowing as the standard Mazda item. I\'ll post the part number and fittings required to use it next time.
Look at that shiny piston. It had a sticky gungy rusty mess around it before that took some getting off. I had a go at polishing the suspension arms...too tedious even with a polishing machine. I\'ll 2-pack the lot black, with the frame.
if you polish it m8, a week later would be rusty as hell again :(.. nice work tho
Then he should treat it so it doesn\'t rust :O!
All the suspension is forged aluminium! No rust! Check Glen Butchers post (I think) to see how good it can look.
I polished mine up, looks awsome and better than new!
Likeing the rear calipers too, excellent work!
Quote from: Initial-DI polished mine up, looks awsome and better than new!
Likeing the rear calipers too, excellent work!
Thanks Initial D. I\'ve been reading some of your posts recently. You have some serious kit there. I was looking at your brake thread..I\'ve done some brake work in the past and a big factor for me was mass. Reducing the unsprung mass paid dividends for acceleration/deceleration and raw mechanical grip. Here is a wild suggestion-try getting hold of some 996 ceramic discs/pads and calipers. I imagine you might get hold of a set from a porsche breaker..must have been a few completely ditched/hedged and rolled 911\'s by now (we have all seen 911 drivers at track days :Tongue1 ). They would be light/fadefree/reasonably easy to get to fit and last forever. Worth a gander anyway.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thanks for the info, they aren\'t as heavey as I\'d have thought but will add greatly to my stopping power over the standard 4pots. I looked at the Porsche style Brembos then saw these and well.. bought them! I can also get huge ceramic discs for them them but they cost the earth.. so one for next year! ;)
Hopefully the weight I lost through removing the ABS, Air con and other bits an bobs will be more than the weight added by the 8 pots, the proof will be when I finally get to use them on track. If they are too cumbersome I\'ll go the Porsche route.
Wel thats a plan then. Just a thought. Its unsprung mass that is often ignored (the mass of the wheel/tyre/hub/brake assembly).
Back to my project...has anbody got a pair of the rear camber adjusters they can sell me? Its time to start putting it all together again.
Not a lot to buy
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/New_3rd_gen_ext_body_styling.html
Got mine from RX Motors down the south coast when mine stripped a thread!!! was £7 +P&P IIRC??? was with me the next day too!!
01725516462
But I dare say Gary & other venders could sort you out aswell!!!
Jono
Quote from: rotaryart.uk.comNot a lot to buy
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/New_3rd_gen_ext_body_styling.html
Thanks Jono, I\'ve bought some from Rotary Art. £11.40 posted. Job done.