Hi Chaps,
while recovering from a cold I have had plenty opportunity to do some thinking:rolleyes: how easy is it to remove/strip & rebuild an engine from a rx7. What special tools are need to remove any stationary gear etc. I did mechanics for 7 years or so should not expect it to be too difficult any help/tips would be appreciated.
rgds
I know you need a HUUGE socket to remove the flywheel nut ... I think its 52mm ... its whats stopping me from stripping down my spare 12a at the moment.
Just a supposition but I guess one of the tricky things is the little bits of knowledge that the experts have. Every task has them.
They make the job easier if you know tham and a real pain if not. There are probably a few real \'gotchas\' too!
Only way to find out is to try and the Tarrantine (sp?) video might be useful there.
Iain
Hey Brian, how you doing?
I would say about £150-£200, it depend on what tools you already have.
I am in N London and currently have my engine apart f you wish to see what tool i use.
Jason
Hi Jason,
I\'m doing alright mate.
I sent you a pm I think yesterday by the way.
I\'ll give you a shout when i\'m next free so I see what\'s what.
Likely to be about 10days time or so wellbusy at the mo.
rgds
QuoteOriginally posted by MikeLMR
I know you need a HUUGE socket to remove the flywheel nut ... I think its 52mm ... its whats stopping me from stripping down my spare 12a at the moment.
For measuring clearances do you just normally use a normal filer gauge or something special? the 12 a you have out at the moment is this going to be your first go at rebuilding?
rgds
Brian
I just saw your pm
I don\'t think I\'ll be rebuilding it straight away ... just wanted to strip it down and see whats up with it (previous owner thought it was low compression even though it had been rebuilt less than 10K miles ago)
Not sure what they use to check clearances .. the only other way I can think of measuring clearances other than using feeler guages is by using a "metal set" where you put a compound on the surface assemle the two parts together and let it set and then measure the resulting cast.
I think the hardest bit about rebuilding a rotor is measuring parts and knowing what clearance you need to achieve.
I\'ve rebuilt a couple of piston engines before but I can\'t say i\'m confident in my abilities.
I\'m planning on doing my own rebuild this Spring/Summer once i\'ve managed to get an FD shell with a blown engine. From what i\'ve researched and from the answers i\'ve recieved so far (WGT) it seems that it is very possible as long as you take your time and have at least some mechanical/practical know how :D
Although the more info, instructions, guides the better i\'d say, so if anyone\'s has any to hand please post a link here ;)
Kind Regards,
Paul:)
Hi Guys,
Just spotted this thread whilst browsing.... I\'m currently rebuilding my 13b lump after it threw an apex seal. I\'ll post pictures later on a new thread, but in response I haven\'t used any \'special\' tools yet .... apart from a 54mm socket for the flywheel nut and a 3m scaffold pole!!
So its all in bits now and am just cleaning stuff up and looking at the amount of parts I need to replace!!:(
Paul, if you need some help/advice when it comes to your rebuild, theres loads of help available, and I\'d be happy to pass on the knowledge I now have. If you can get a copy of the rebuild DVD I would highly recommend it - saved me a few hours, but that was mainly on getting the thing out the engine bay....
Mike.
For those that have rebuilt their 13b or are intending to do themselves, do you know the costs of the parts you need, or where they can be ordred from cheaply
cheers
Dave
I\'ve only just started looking at parts for the rebuild, but after speaking with Carl, I\'m going for the genuwine Mazda Apex seals. I think they\'ve replaced the 3-piece design with the 2-piece.
As for the other seals, if anyone knows a good cost effective, and reliable source let us all know.
I\'m also gonna need a housing, and maybe the plates depending on the wear, so I\'ll soon be contacting Pip for some 2nd hand parts.
Mike.
@ Dave and Mike.
Both Grizzly and myself have completed a full over-haul of the 13b, complete with large secondary ports and extended exhaust ports.
The whole job was completed within one week, this includes removal and re-fit, within our 12,000 sqft premisies.
One of the hardest parts is getting the flywheel nut off, lol.
You will need to complete PLENTY of cleaning, messuring and checking all the right items.
When you\'re ready to rebuild your 13b it\'s like making a big oily cake, love it...
We have put together the complete rebuild kit, which includes Teflon encapsulated water seal and Viton oil seals. Also included is a full set of Apex seals and a full gasket set, using quality parts sourced from around the world.
To help the home mechanic we would also included a step-by-step video for both engine removal and 13b over-haul, with added bits.
This is not a promotion for a business venture but is simply a hobbie, which we are happy to keep behind doors, so not to step on peoples feet.
Regards...
Jus
Jus
So for the purpose of information, what would you say the approx figure for parts would be ? to rebuild said 13b
Dave
Some things to note on doing a rebuild.
Try to use genuine Mazda parts.
Check rotor housings VERY carefully if you are going to reuse them.They may look good but be ever so slightly warped due to all of the heat cycles they have been through.Also they will be narrower in the hotter areas around the spark plugs and down through the combustion area.This may preclude reusing them too.
If either of these problems are there you will end up with coolent leaks internaly.Check the spark plug holes for cracks,if they are cracked you may get coolent leaks.
When checking the seal clearances don\'t make them too tight or the seals will bind when hot due to their expanding more than the rotor\'s(Particularly side seals),follow the guides from Haynes,don\'t make them too loose either or compression will be low.
The apex seal grooves should be fairly tight if possible with no flaring at the top of the apex seal groove.A smooth sliding movement and no rocking is important for gas sealing.
The oil control rings should be in good order with less than 0.5mm wear on the rubbing surface.
The corner seal holes should be a nice tight smooth sliding fit with no room for rocking,but not so tight that they don\'t move smoothly and easily.
The side housings should have no deep scoring from wear or the compression will be lower than desirable.You can either get them Lapped or buy new housings.You must look very carefuly for corrosion in the seal grooves for the water seals too.
I always on customer cars use new rotor housings,and sometimes new side housings.
I also to use new seals throughout including apex,side,corner,oil control ring "O" rings,water seals.
Kind regards
Carl
:wave
@Dave
I\'ll provide you with prices later on, I\'ll need to total everything up.
@ Carl, after messuring up everything as you discribed, our engine end play was .0021 thousand of ". We had to replace one side plate, fortunately for us most of the engine was in good condition.
Good fun...
Jus
I rebuilt my first just before christmas (FD Twin Turbo), i\'m not a mechanic, far from it, all that is required is common sense and a fair bit of space. I used Bruce Turrentine\'s video, which was excellent. I dont know how much Jus wants for a rebuild kit, but //www.atkinsrotary.com sell complete kits with everything you need, including the video. It is about 1100 dolars from memory.
It is 10% removal, 10 % refitting and 80% cleaning and checking all the parts. If you have thrown an Apex seal you can pretty much guarantee you will need a rotor and a rotor housing. I have done 1000 miles in mine now and have given some stick, it seems to be ok so far. I did a little bit of exhaust and inlet porting on mine while it was apart, but if your building a Twin turbo, you may have trouble with boost if you enlarge the exhaust ports. i would say go for it, the feeling of starting for the first time wwhen you built it yourself is superb......:)
Some excellent advice Carl - thanks for that, and Jus, could you let me know some prices too, or good sources.
Its threads like this that give people the courage to get out and rebuild their own engines, and in turn help the rotory scene grow - which we need as it would seem we have a lot of catching up to do with the States and Aus!
Jus! One week! How many hours?! The problem I\'ve got, and probably most other people who attempt a rebuild is time! Its the odd evening here, and weekend there...
Cheers,
Mike.
Cool :cool, Some good info here, keep it coming guys.
Cheers,
Paul:D
Hello Guys im new to this forum, but been a steady member on rx7club.com for over a year now, since i bought my seven.
And i searched trough looking for rebuild kits. And got a hit on this thread. I know it\'s old but i need som answers fast.
Im going to England this week, to pick up a RX7. But im also looking for rebuild kits. I wan\'t to buy some while im there, so that i don\'t need to pay for shipping, and taxes when the parts get to norway.
So if anyone could point me to someone that have complete rebuild kits in England it would be real great :)
BTW Is there anyone that knows if i can get Tanabe Coilovers in England also?
Sincerly
JT Pedersen