Looking for some help on this Guys................................
Changed my alternator a while back and droped it on the engine, stupid idiot I know. After it was changed the heat light on the dashboard came on and has stayed on since. I know this was the knock sensor warning light and presumed that the sensor was broken after dropping the alternator.
I fitted a PF Commander today and it is picking up the following readings for knock :
30ish below boost and peaking about 65 at 5000rpm, not going any higher till I know it\'s ok.
Why would the heat light be staying on if the PFC is picking up a reading..????? I thought it was the sensor that was goosed.
Totally Confused on this one...........................
The heat light stays on if you\'ve got a faulty sensor. Check the screen on the commander where it shows you the voltages for all the sensors. One of them will be highlighted, that\'s the faulty one.
Quote from: efinisteThe heat light stays on if you\'ve got a faulty sensor. Check the screen on the commander where it shows you the voltages for all the sensors. One of them will be highlighted, that\'s the faulty one.
Thanks mate..............................................
Is there a few different sensors for knock..........??????????
No, the light can meaning different errors. A quick succession of flashes is the knock reading going high, the light staying on is a sensor failure (Like crank angle, fuel temp, etc, etc)
light on with power fc can mean.
1. Oil metering pump fault. ( if the light is on constantly, make sure the omp wires that run close to the crank have not come loose and caught on the pulley) DO NOT DRIVE until u get it fixed or add 2 stroke oil to fuel..
2. Cat sensor has broken check under car.
It can mean more than just those issues. It means \'something\' is wrong somewhere - check the sensor/switch check menu to see what is flagged as having an issue.
might be your air temp under the UIM, mine is faulty and sometimes it stays red for upto a couple of mins at a time after a while it goes off and i get a neg 35 reading on my commander, Im about to change it this weekend even though its been like that for months :p
maybe worth your while checking there
John-
Thanks all guys................................
I have checked the sensor menu on the commander tonite and the fuel reading is highlighted........................??????????????
Any ideas wot I need to look at next....?????
Finally got my english insruction manual and it appears that the fuel temp gauge is faulty........................................
Any Ideas....????????
Quote from: John_Hudsonmight be your air temp under the UIM, mine is faulty and sometimes it stays red for upto a couple of mins at a time after a while it goes off and i get a neg 35 reading on my commander, Im about to change it this weekend even though its been like that for months :p
maybe worth your while checking there
John-
i get the same mate -35 sometimes, gonna do mine this weekend was just wondering if it had made much difference to the car? the air fuel ratio should obviously be more accruate but is it obvious.
also my knock reading is always 1 so im guessing its broke, any tips.
much apreciated :)
(sorry for digging up and stealing thread but looks like you guys are done)
also mine has highlighted
NTR
FPD
APR
CCR
anyone have a translation?
found the meanings of codes but i think the vmop one came on one tme i checked so i need to monitor, any views?
VMOP is your oil metering pump sensor - if that\'s failed you need to get it changed asap or start using a pre-mix fuel, otherwise you\'ll do damage to your rotor housings.
I have a spare standard air temp sensor if anyone needs one?
bo**ocks...i got the same problem
I had it happen before i rebuilt my engine. Got bored of putting premix in. The result was some very worn rotor housings!
Damn it mines on 2... Only since i got it back from Dragon...
Will have to suss it out tonight... Dont wanna wreck the engine...
Quote from: AndyGen3Damn it mines on 2... Only since i got it back from Dragon...
Will have to suss it out tonight... Dont wanna wreck the engine...
Whats on 2? :3Confused
Quote from: nikpWhats on 2? :3Confused
The cat heat light... Wudnt mind i was bootin it back to make the boat and the car died and wudnt boost... Had to get the AA to bring me home..
This could be part of the problem...
When your checking the sensors will the circles be black or white if theres something wrong???
No circles denote whether the switch is on or not (\'white\' circle is off, black is on). If the whole thing is highlighted in black, then it denotes the sensor/switch as bust.
A knock of 2 is very good. However, you would probably expect it to move a bit (If you look on the graph of it). I\'m not an expert on failed knock sensors, but my understanding of them is that often they give wildly high readings when they fail as opposed to low readings.
haha i wasnt talkin about the knock i meant my cat light is on too "2" text speak sorry...
Highest ive seen my knock is over 200!! So i dont think it works very well...:p
Oh.....ok. I\'m not very good with text talk. High knocks on the apexi can mean anything. Especially with old knock sensors. If you\'re worried, it might be worth getting it checked out.
my heat light came on there on the way home from work. it comes on when its decelerasting and is poping alot more.. as soon as i accelerate it goes of??? the tick over is also higher at about 1100rpm. anyidea what this could be??
the car is decated
Has anyone sucessfully removed the cat and and managed to make the heat light go off? I know some people put the sensor under the seat but thats not an option for me because mine broke when removing the cat from the car.. I read that a resistor does the trick. Has anyone done this?
Quote from: yamastermy heat light came on there on the way home from work. it comes on when its decelerasting and is poping alot more.. as soon as i accelerate it goes of??? the tick over is also higher at about 1100rpm. anyidea what this could be??
the car is decated
Hi Shane,
drop the rpm on the idle screw.Should be about 900 rpm when warm.
Regards
Carl
Quote from: RobbieRX-7Has anyone sucessfully removed the cat and and managed to make the heat light go off? I know some people put the sensor under the seat but thats not an option for me because mine broke when removing the cat from the car.. I read that a resistor does the trick. Has anyone done this?
Hi Robbie,
It is an easy fix.
Under the drivers seat there is the wiring that goes to the sensor under the car.
Just disconnect the connector,and then cut the two wires and solder them to gether,then tape up with electrical tape.
That removes the constant on of the heat light for the cat,but you still get any other warning flashes.
Regards
Carl
You can get high knock readings if the engine is low on compression,or it can be due to something like the power steering pump getting rattly.Sometimes sensors need changing.
If the knock is high on overrun then you have no worries,but if it comes on under hard acceleration then that can be a worry.
Regards
Carl
Cheers carl. Your always giving out sound advice, much appreciated:cheers