OK took the car out for a quick drive tonight as I hadn’t used it for a couple of weeks.
Let the car get up to temp, water around 60-65, oil around 50 before moving. Water goes up to and holds around 76-79c and the oil to around 65-68c. Oil pressure is good, this is all town driving getting to a nice dual carriage way.
Get to the D/C and start to open it up…. Water goes down to around 70-72, oil down to 60-61. Then try dropping to a lower gear and making the engine work harder, get more heat sort of thing, and oil went down to 55c water went back up a little to 75ish.
Come back off the D/C and temps go back up to 78-79c water and 63-64 oil.
Car is a UK spec with twin oil coolers and a custom v-mount which appears to work a little too well. ;)
I will be removing the I/C and fitting the splitter back between the rad and I/C, lowering to amount of air the rad will get. Hoping to bring temps up to somewhere better, but the oil bit I cant work out.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Fish
Quote from: FishAny ideas?
Drive it harder !! :D
But the harder I was driving it, the colder the water and oil was getting. :(
Fish
im sitting here waiting for the answers to this too before installing mine....:confused:
It was bloody cold yesterday though, you\'ll be thankful of the cooling capacity come summer.
My car was sooooooooo quick last night, lovin\' it!
Laeeq, what you bought now? ;)
Yeah it was cold, but if the oil temps aren\'t up there then its not good, and with the driver day in April (yeah I know its a way off) I want it to be working properly.
One thing I did nothing was the air temps went from 25c down to 12c. :D
Fish
my temps are always the above! i have 2 coolers and a big alu rad and standard ic (for now) if im sitting in traffic ages then oil may go up to the 80s and water up to 90 then the apexi turns the fans on. but i dont understand how this is bad?
i get that viscosity changes with temp but i thought they were ok for time of year?
are you being paranoid fish or should i be worried, im on the april thing too! :)
when i had my fans on all the time the water wouldnt go above 45 but i put that back.
A side issue of the temps being too cold, is that the PFC goes back into cold start mode and adds extra fuel, thus making a rich map even richer and emptys the tank even quicker. :(
Hopegully one of the engine guru\'s will chime in on this?
Fish
is there a thermostat fitted ? if so what rating
All stock thermostats in place.
Fish
where are the temperature readings being taken?
Dont worry Fish its all normal for this tie of year where the air amb temps are low come summer then it will increase........:yes :cheers This time of year I struggle to get my water temps higher than 60degC........:rolleyes:
The water temps are from the commander, the oil temp/pressure is from a plate under the oil filter to my SPA digital gauge.
Fish
At the moment I have 60 Deg oil and water temps on the move. I have adjusted settings on the Microtech to zero compensation above 60 Deg.
Going to wait and see what its like in the summer and I may block off part of the Rad.
they all sound normal to me buddy i get the same.
i struggle to see 50 on the water whilst moving this time of year with the ewp
this will prob raise in the summer
oil sits around 50-60 but creeps to 70 in traffic
hth
To be honest, if peoples water temps are not getting up to correct levels (85 isw for an FD) then there is probably something wrong with the thermostat. The thermostat will keep coolant going round the engine until it\'s got up to 81 degrees, and only then will it be cooled by the rad. If over cooling is occurring with the coolant, then it\'s likely the thermostat is stuck open.
i get oil temps of 60 ish on the move, up to 80 in traffic which is from the sandwich plate under the oil filter that i have put on.
water is 80s when driving sometimes a little lower but usually 80s on the commander but on my gauge which is from the top hose off the rad its 60s when driving.
this is with clean oil and a huge rad which i discovered a little while ago.
i think this is ok but i get very paranoid about temps for some reason so i would let the car idle for ten to 15 mins when i got it but after some people n here said that is extreme and they just drive it to warm it i let it idle for 5 mins at most befoer driving.
when i stop driving my temps are normally in he high 80s on the commander in the 70s ish on the gauge and oil is 70s so i wait a few mins turn it off and leave the ignition on (this is a pain but i am terrified for some reason) the temp on the commander risies quickly as its close to the engine and the water pump is off. when this hits 90s the fans come on (because the apexi is set on mine to come on when hits 90s) then i wait a few mins for the water in rad to cool off then start the car again and the cold water goes through the system and the apexi temp drops quickly from 90 to 70s then i turn the car off after a few more minutes.
am i being silly?
how long do you guys let the car warm up for or do you drive straight off and how long to cool down?
i am very curious i may even put up a new thread so i know once and for all.
Cheers
don\'t forget it\'s not just the engine you are warming up, gearbox and diff oil also has a working temp range. I am a believer that driving the car gently is the best way to let it warm up. Be it right or wrong I dunno?
Have you got the original oil coolers? and do the FD\'s have the built in oil stats that the FC\'s had?
Quote from: MikeLMRdon\'t forget it\'s not just the engine you are warming up, gearbox and diff oil also has a working temp range. I am a believer that driving the car gently is the best way to let it warm up. Be it right or wrong I dunno?
I so agree with this comment, letting your car warm up but just sitting there is no good, you have to warm the rest of the car up, plus you have no airflow when you just sitting there. Best way that has been said is to drive off gently to start off with.
My water temps are around the mid 80s
My water temps are around 80C on standard rad, unless I\'m stuck in traffic. I normally drive it gently until water is up to 80C, and make sure that I\'m driving it gently for the last minute or so.
Quote from: BlitzBoyI so agree with this comment, letting your car warm up but just sitting there is no good, you have to warm the rest of the car up, plus you have no airflow when you just sitting there. Best way that has been said is to drive off gently to start off with.
My water temps are around the mid 80s
Yep, agree too. Drive it straight away. Get some temperature into that gearbox oil. I\'m not sure if other peoples rex\'s are the same, but i find that it\'s difficult to get it into first gear when the gearbox is cold. Once it\'s warm, it slots in a lot easier. Which just shows that a warm gearbox, is a good gearbox!
Nikp, sounds like you\'re running some thick gear oil.
Fish
i drive veeeery gently believe me, i have alot of road humps to go over but i keet it below 1.5k rpm for 10 minutes (i have to anyway cos the bumps & my car has about 2 inch clearance at the front :Grrr ) dont care if poeple get impatient. then a further 5 or so with a little more revs ie 2k in each gear then if i have to then i open her up after that by which time everything is fully warm.
i was always very aware of this but i dont mind doing it, but it is very annoying when you entire office talk about your really fast car and then you take someone out after bragging for a bit, they get in and you drive like a pu55y for 20 minutes! :rollin
Are you guys still getting 60 degree oil temps in the summer as well? mine went under 60 on the way to RS4(under gentale driving) :eek:
I\'ve been told by quite a few people now its not over cooled, but still worrying if engine\'s getting enough protection by oil being that cold?
i would have said thermostat too.
i think its just down to the weather. also if your engine oil is too cold is usually to thick. i had a similar problem on my pulsar recently after i changed the oil and filter, and put a fmic on it.
My pulsar doesnt even have an oil cooler. i had really high oil pressure and really low temperature even when thrashing it. The oil would eventually get warm and the pressure would drop but that was after 30 or so minutes of driving!
after investigating it, i found i had about 1/2 liter too much oil in and the oil was the wrong weight. i thought oldish engine may need slightly thicker oil. i was wrong and swapped to a lower recommended weight oil and got the correct level on the dipper, and problem solved.
thermostat, where about can I get one?
One thing to remember guys.... to get an accurate oil temp reading you should have the temp probe in the sump!! with it being in a sandwedge plate the temp reading is going to be lower than the actial oil temp.... probably only by a couple of degrees!! the reason for this is that the probe isn\'t submerged in a pool of oil, instead it is geting a flow running accross the tip of the sensor!! temp sensors should realy be submerged in the fluid to get an exact reading.... this is why the water temp probe is about 100mm lower than the fill point - so it is totaly submerged!
mine is in a sandwedge plate & I was sitting at a steady 64c, ocasionaly rasing to 68 and droping to 55 in slower trafic! water temps were 72 - 76 and inlet temp didn\'t cross 27c.
Jono