Hi guys,
just needed some advice about the clutch system, recently i have noticed that my biting point has been getting higher and higher and my pull of slightly smother and less aggressive but it doesnt seem to be slipping?
once only, when the second turbo came in a nasty grinding noise came out but after that it was ok again. would this be anything to do with the release bearing?
as far as i know its hydraulic right meaning i could get any air out right? how do i do this and where is the master cylinder?
it really doesnt feel like it has gone if you know what i mean plus i havent done any hard starts or anything but it has been getting progesively worse.
also is it true that i could then lose the pedal working completely if that were the case.
the brake resovoir seems full and i am assuming this is the same as the clutch one is that right also?
any help with this is really appreciated as i cant afford to change the clutch atm so hoping for a easy fix.
oh and often when decelerating it wobbles kind of bucking a bit in the lower gears up to fourth and the gear lever has begun to move a little as it wobbles would this be that power train bar thingy or is it just because something is causing it to wobble? (i had a minor ignition issue so im thinking that the bucking on deceleration may be to do with this but the fact that it doesnt do it when accelerating is leading me to the clutch.
thanks again
:cheers
If you have got play in the box on deseleration (exessive wabbling of the shifter) I would be looking toward engine mounts & checking the brace between the diff & gearbox!!! the grinding could have been the prop touching the brace due to the exessive movement???
As for bleeding the clutch, it\'s the same as doing the brakes. the bleed point is on the slave sylinder which is located directly above the starter motor!!!
Jono
1. Hghly doubt its a release bearing
2. the clutch is hydraulic so you can bleed the system
3. If youre bleeding the clutch, you want the slave cylinder
4. Brake and clutch use the same MC
There you go mate, take it round \'one2watch\' and he\'ll sort it for ya... he\'s cool like that :Thumbsup!
thanks for the reply guys! the instant email alert seems to have broken for me so i didnt know.
how do you bleed it.... sorry just want to be sure, do i need to pump the clutch and am i bleeding all the fuid or just the air?
reason why i thought it could be the bearing etc is when that grinding happened ie when the second boost hit the car just coasted! no power?
also Rixio did mention that his had the same bad symptoms and turned out to be the cylinder itself or something and not the clutch.
forgot to add to that i dont drive that aggresively ie no hard pull offs and really hard or quick gear changes, but whilst at rx motors tim really put the car through its paces and i think maybe that coupled with all the bumps killed one of the mounts or more likely one of the bars underneath as now if i reverse and lift the clutch a bit quick it bangs from the rear every time! and during hard gear changes it also nocks like a loud THUD when shifting, well shifting like tim anyways :) (legend of a bloke though very grateful to all of them)
hi guys i neeeed your help big time!
along with what i have said above, today on the way back from work my clutch pedal has now suddenly gone very stiff! my brake pedal has also!
The car is still wobbling so to speak under deceleration could this be anything to do with the clutch engaging and disengaging etc?
as far as i knew if the pedal goes really soft and the biting point gets very high but there isnt much slipping or clutch stink then this would point to the system needing bleeding
on the other side if it went all stiff this would perhaps point at a release bearing about to go? but why would both happen after each other?
i am really confused and very very frstrated as i have just started a new job it is just out of town so a) i need the car and b) i cant really ask for any time off without sounding really bad!
and to top it off i have just saved up a few pennies to have it mapped etc on the 17th but i cant do it with it like this.
what do i do and what may i need as i am desperate to sort this. i am not sure whether i am damaging it by driving it or whether it will die if i keep driving it or whether to go to dorset (the only place i can afford to go to and want to atm) to see tim at rx motors.
could my symptoms be caused by a broken or loose power plan bar thing or something to that effect or is it slave cylinder related or a combination of mounts etc & the clutch failing~?
to add to this wierdness a few things have happend recently which are really odd,
going to the tunnel run i had a passenger and some bags in the boot (not cement or anything) i was cruising along in 5th down the m1 with nobody around and on a flat straight and suddenly the clutch began to STINK for no reason, this started to smell again a few times that night despite not doing any burning starts.
a few days later when testing with my brother in law (mechanic of 10 years) no slip was felt really just a soft pedal but once and only once i gave it WOT in 2nd and when the second boost hit i lost any feeling of power and just heard grinding.
today the pedal went all hard and i can hear some wierd hissing/air pressure type noise when i pulled up but not in the 30 minute drive before & also a very very very faint grinding type noise when at low speed that was intermittent ie only lasted a few seconds at a time?
IF YOU CAN POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION I WOULD BE VERY GRATEFUL!
that way i can save some money and not go all the way to dorset if there is no need.
I am seeing the exact same issues. Clutch engagement gets progressively higher as the car warms up, to the point where the clutch begins to slip. Also brake pedal height increases and pedal travel reduces, to the point where the brakes are locking / dragging.
Any pointers would be much appreciated.
wobbling issues etc sorted by engine mounts. diff mounts yet to do so some travel in them.
(i woulndt suggest doing engine mounts and not diff if they have gone as they will shortly take out your new engine mounts, i did mine as the ones i put on are poly)
still have this pedal issue though, doesnt actually slip obviously and no signs of it going just exactly the same as above and changes day to day.
i changed the fluid which helped for a day and made it slightly better longer term but now methinks its got something to do with master/slave cylinder.
any views?
if i was you mate - id get a one man bleeding kit, do all the brakes and then do the clutch, and see what happens. the clutch takes its fluid from the top of the master cylinder and the brakes take it from below the halfway.
failing that perhaps you may have a slave or master thats on its way out? best get ordering rebuild kits for them both just to be on the safe side.
Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAHif i was you mate - id get a one man bleeding kit, do all the brakes and then do the clutch, and see what happens. the clutch takes its fluid from the top of the master cylinder and the brakes take it from below the halfway.
failing that perhaps you may have a slave or master thats on its way out? best get ordering rebuild kits for them both just to be on the safe side.
is it expensive or difficult to do or have them done.
mine have been bled which has made an improvement but still feels very wrong. im sure the clutch is fine so i need to sort this.
thanks
oh an HELP :)
gary does them so does pip and all the other tuners id bet.
you can buy them second hand from reworx as well..
its not difficult to rebuild them. just when you take them off dont push the piston in and have the bleed nipple open pointing at your head lol.
Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAHgary does them so does pip and all the other tuners id bet.
you can buy them second hand from reworx as well..
its not difficult to rebuild them. just when you take them off dont push the piston in and have the bleed nipple open pointing at your head lol.
you so did that!
:rollin
will persue, thanks for the advise fella