I have a 1988 RX7 gen 2 non-turbo and i am looking at putting a straight through exhaust system on as well as removing the air pump to see that extra power that is drained by it. After reading many of the post I am confused by all different types of information. Can someone please help me with what i need and instructions, i.e. what resistors are need for the solenoids etc. At the end of the day i am trying to achieve that meaty straight through exhaust growl, remove the air pump and acv entirely so that i get the odd flame spitting out the arse end and unleash extra power.:wiggle I should be able to make blanking plates and get a shortened belt for the water pump but i need advice on what i need to remove and what resistors go where.:confused: Help pleeeeeez... Dan
no idea of the resistors - but ebay.com for the blanking plates - should cost you about £30 to get them to the UK
and the belt - i think a 1969 mini cooper fan belt fits - you need to have a search on here for the info though
Stu
For the resistors - I take it these are to fool the ECU into thinking the solenoid valves are still in circuit ?
If that\'s the case, I think you need anything from about 20 ohms to 47 ohms depending on which solenoid - best thing is to measure each one you take off and give or take 5 ohms you\'ll be ok
I read from http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29915 (http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29915) that you need two resistors:
\'4) If your not bothered by a bit of flame at the back, you can remove the ACV entirely, and use a block off plate. You will get error codes for the 2 solenoids for Split air and Port air, unless you use a load resistor to fool the ecu into thinking they are still on the car.\'
Where will i find these solenoids? Dan
On the EGi if you remove the Airpump, the ACV (then make a plate to block off the now open LIM) , remove the Thermal reactor on the exhaust ports and then the secondary reactor just before the Y piece then you will see around 25-30HP and much faster throttle response. I never found any need to fool any of the ECU returns. (Dont think there are any on the EGI from the ACV anyway?)
You WILL have MOT emission problems though.
Hope this helps :wave
Thanks. I think I will take the air pump and acv off then put a blanking plate on and see what happens:Thumbs-up . I\'ll see later if i need any resistors. Thanks for all your help everyone :Thumbs-up Dan
Unless you have fitted an exhaust system that removes the two reactors there very little point in removeing the airpump :yes
On the car at the minute is a \'mushroom\' type manifold with a pipe on it that goes to the ACV, and a main converter with a pipe(spilt air pipe???)that goes to the intake manifold. It doesnt have any pre-converters, just a straight through downpipe from the manifold to the main converter. After looking in the haynes manual it doesnt show a manifold with a pipe going to the ACV like mine :confused: . I can take a picture of the inlet manifold i have like whats on my car if it helps? Dan
took soem good photos but dont know how to uplod them :( Send me your email address and i will email them to you if you want. Dan
Assuming its got a stock exhaust system you will see a heat shield on the lower half of the engine, this is covering the Thermal reactor which is a cylindrical looking thing around 14" long and 7" Diameter, the two exhuast ports are fireing into the side of this, the split air system blows air in via a 1" pipe at the front of the reactor. The back end of the reactor has a 3 stud arrangement which the down pipe is fitted to. The whole exhaust system is basically coaxial with air being blown down inbetween its layers, if you mange to get the down pipe off you will see what I mean.
I hope this makes a bit of sense - if you can get the heat sheilds off the reactor you will see straight away! :yes
lol its all come clear to me now (\'mushroom\' looking manifold is the thermal reactor), cheers brett. we have had the engine out and replaced the intake manifold as the other was burnt out in a small engine fire. so... i guess i also need to make a blanking plate for the split air pipe (pipe to the main converter)? many thanks brett, Dan
No worries.
TBH I really cant see the point of you doing this unless you are planning to change to tubular manifolds at the same time - I\'m sure you wont see any difference by just removing the air pump, but I\'m willing to be proven wrong :)
sorry i didnt mention it but we are planning on tubular manifolds (hopefully from www.strippedparts.com (http://www.strippedparts.com)), removing main converter and replacing it with a straight through pipe and a pair of nice back boxes :D . Hope to get the beast on the road before the end of spring:driving . thanks for all your help. dan.