just had my car checked yesterday by PIP and he said everythin was fine and even done a compression test which shown good figures, but last nite when i took my car for a spin:
I hit about 6krpm in 2nd gear. After that I got all the neat your-motor-is-dead symptoms: Loss of power, very erradic boost, . I was not boosting high, . i managed to drive my car home, just, I went home and check for lumpy idle but the car died and will not start.
Usually the car will start when the motor is blown (correct?) but has poor idle and vacuum. The car will turn over but chugs and will not start. Could there be another issue with the motor, such as a blown off hose?
got the AA guy came to look at it and he said there is deffinatley fuel goin in as i suggested may b fuel pump??as he can hear the relay click!and he think is somethin wrong with the ignition, mind the spark plug was fitted about a mth ago and done less that 200 miles.
PLEASE HELP,THANKS!
sam
Have you tried a de-flood?
Dan
tried the deflooded method, but the problem is that i dont think u will get flooded when u are drivin right???is just instant lost of power and stall at traffic light, i managed to crawl back to my house,thk god
sam
Try taking a plug out of one rotor housing at a time.Top ones(Trailing)are best and easiest.With the fuse out for deflood crank the engine and listen to compression.
Keep 3 plugs in so that you can hear if you have good compression.Then take plug out of other housing and put the one back in that was out so you allways have 3 plugs in.
Easy test,hope this helps.
kind regards
Carl
Hi Sam,
Do you have you any kind of different ECU fitted that could be mapped wrong ?
Maybe a failed injector ? as if you are putting way to much fuel in your engine in your engine because of a fault then yes it could flood whilst driving.
By far the best thing will be to ring Pip on Monday because he has only just seen the car !
Sorry this may not help at the moment but l am just trying to say that you may not have lost the engine just yet hopefully .
is a original ECU by mazda, so is that could b the injectors then??anyway is it possible that i could check it out physically by takin it out ??and where about is the injectos??under the plenum?
thx
sam
Sam
As u know i\'m still learning but if u r running a standard ECU with the mods u have (i know there not extreme) but it could do somthing strange to the engine, what i dont know but i\'ve read a few threads about uprated ECU\'s to cope with mods so u dont damage anything.
yes i know wot u mean, but for the mods i had , back box alone should be ok for the original ECU, as PIP had set the boost at 0.8-0.9 bar
sam
Hi Sam,
No matter what the fault you will have to take the plugs out so first of all refer to Carls post as this is a real quick and good way of checking if the Engines been lost.
how do u listen to it if it has good compression or bad compression???will it be faster or slower???
sam
I think you should hear a \'phhhht\'-noise each time an apex seal crosses the plug hole if that particular face of the rotor has compression. If you dont hear 3 consistenly spaced \'phhhts\' then you have a problem; you can also stick your finger in the hole(!) and feel for the compressions of each face.
Do this for both rotor housings to confirm that you havent got a rooted motor.
Get someone to hold the throttle wide open for you too so as to get fukll induction.
Kind regards
Carl
Hope its better
What was it in the end that failed then Sam ?
and why ?
rgds
on that day i took the car to WGT and pip told me those compression figures i posted before and he said that the car is excellent as you probably know from those compression figures,
so that nite my bro took it out and rev it to about 6krpm max and then u can feel a sudden power loss so i manage to crawl back, and pip said he was very suprise that happens as the rear chamber has gotl little compression when i took the car back.
u know i was really gutted as i just got checked by WGT and then on that nite somethin happen, he said he is goin to check the engine internal when the engine is out to see what actually causes it as he dont know what has actually happened,
i m so GUTTED, how could this happen to ME..........!!!!!!!!!wot a SAD SAD day
That\'s a shame mate. Sounds like detonation (at max torque 6krpm). What mods did you have on the car ? and what was done in the ned to stop it running as it was ? could whatever was done to lean out the mixture have been leaned out too much ?
rgds
mods are only back box and ARC induction box, original ECU and i couldnt think of anythin that could lean it out, any suggestion Brian???how could this happened????????just after i got the car back too......:mad:
One weak point which I try and make mention to anyone with the arc induction kit is that is is crap and a big heat soak. Your intake temps soar with this fitted. This in itself would not be the cause but it could well of contributed. The other possibilites are endless. Could be any thing from injector fault on the car, or dodgy fuel pump etc to something simple like the climate at this time of year and you suffered a boost spike maybe. There really is many possible causes. I guess there\'ll be a better indication once it\'s stripped down.
rgds
on that day Pip actuall told me that he sets the boost at 0.9 bar so it wont overboost at all, i guest i m just really BAD LUCK
QuoteOriginally posted by samfc3s
on that day Pip actuall told me that he sets the boost at 0.9 bar so it wont overboost at all, i guest i m just really BAD LUCK
You must have a boost controller aswell then ? as you cannot ste the amount of boost without either and aftermarket ecu or a boost controller ?? 0.9 bar is way above stock. infact without a fuel cut defender you will experience fuel cut to the rear rotor I believe anything above 12 psi .9 bar I believe is about 14.5 psi ?
rgds
well i cant remb exactly but somethin he told me that 0.8-0.9, i dont have a boost controller, i thought u can set it manually???
sam
I agree with Brian on Induction kits. Get the proper Mazda one if you can, it draws cold air from outside the car.