Mazda Rotary Club

Just though i would do a quick poll for this as it seems recently that engines seem to be pooping with very few miles on the.

I\'m not really looking to start discussion on reliabilty or good mods and bad mods but just wanted know how many really

I know of at least 6 or 7 recently,  but a lot of people dont seem to post when their engine dies as they seem embarressed for some reason.  

A short note about why if you know or how many miles you have done if its more than 10k.

Most importantly I dont want to start slagging tuner and engine builders so please keep it to another thread.

well as you know ant mine has gone with 4900 miles, it was mild tuned at 0.8 bar, something mechanical is wrong im pretty certain, do to the cercumstances that it happened (but im not gunna go in to details at the moment buddy)

rmaj

Sorry to hear about that, but thats what i\'m looking for, as we may learn from things.

My FD died with 3 K on it and the only thing i could put it down to was a broken OMP oil line to the front rotor.  Stripped the engine and there was nothing wrong, just a tip wedged in the groove, put it back together and its still going strong now!   Premix is the way forward

ok, off boost. rear rotor tips, block not apart yet so dont really know why.

rmaj

mine popped after previous owners 2000 mile rebuild and mine then was rebuilt but managed to only have average compression on one rotor and very low compression on the other.mine is with carl at the moment to  have new life breathed into it..first time he has touched my car and its starting to look good will advise my final verdict when its back together

mine died due to it being put together by hurleys using ****e parts and having no thermostat fitted. mileage was about 8 or 9,000 i believe cant remeber its been so long since  i sat in it

mine died due to apex seal failure. Was losing water anyway due to a welded plate being bodged up. was probably overheating and had no thermostat fitted.
I share your pain dean :( sometimes i sit in the car for hours.....dreaming of the day when itll work! :(
Although with the engine almost built, the time will come soon!

mine died again ,18k , no boost 25mph sudden knock of 81 lost compression on front rotor?? front rotor apex seals jammed into rotor 1 apex seal missing a bit? ??? thought turbo broke up but stripped and there fine? now going to get injectors checked, my plugs were over due a change but was waitting on delivery of them ! one thing in the back of my mind is my alarm wiring not sure how its wired ??

Mine failed due to water seal failure. Tired engine, expected. Lots of miles on it. Now rebuilt and mapped with single turbo and going strong!

lrp i never did buy into that alarm wiring info as at 25mph u are very very unlikely to get ignition break up severe enough to pogger a engine and havnt heard of anyone since having a engine pop due alarm wires

antnicuk, what ratio are you using and what make oil are you using for your premix.

Anyway, mine went after 2K, thought to be a wiring issue either with the alarm or engine loom. Both now replaced and have done another 2K on new engine. There was no bad knock reading and all other levels on the PFC were within limits. The rear rotor tip let go and fooked the rest of the tips, rotor and housing.

boy, is the a depressing thread or what:(

Quote from: rx7veilsidelrp i never did buy into that alarm wiring info as at 25mph u are very very unlikely to get ignition break up severe enough to pogger a engine and havnt heard of anyone since having a engine pop due alarm wires

I never bought into that alarm stuff either.

Mine died at 27000 Miles, 2Years and 2 Months - just outside warranty.

On examination of the internals, it was badly carboned, rotor housings cracked and scored, and the springs had all lost their spring - the engine had obviously overheated at some point in the past.  Only one corner seal actually failed completey - most of it was missing - and one apex seal had a nick in it.  Both Rotechniks and myself belive the failure to have been caused by a waterpump failure that occurred 6 months previously, but the engine did not show any signs of having overheated or any loss of power - indeed it dyno\'d well on low boost 2 months before popping and was strong till the end !

Quote from: rx7veilsidelrp i never did buy into that alarm wiring info as at 25mph u are very very unlikely to get ignition break up severe enough to pogger a engine and havnt heard of anyone since having a engine pop due alarm wires

hello mate its been on my mind a while but yes i know what your saying not at that speed , but going to check anyway

Mine went with 5k on it. Unfortunately it was all my own fault. Too much boost on a cold night, popped a front rotor apex seal which took out the rotor and the housing. Just finishing off my GT35R single rebuild.

First failure OMP injector on rear rotor,last failure warped seals due to OMP again not putting enough oil when running high power, now junked the OMP now running Premix, runs like a dream now :)

My engine has 65k miles and is still going strong. I\'m swapping for a 30k miles one from Dragon tho and selling mine once the block is out :)

My went after 365 miles (water seal) imported from one of the banners above.
Warranty worth jack.

Carl Hayward was recommended for the rebuild. He\'s done a top job.
Just covered 1300 miles on rebuild. 700 to go before the final ok from Carl and the fittment of the Power FC.

More and more I am liking the idea of going 2 stroke !

2200 miles - cracked ceramic apex seal
                 Jammed side seal

I voted: My Engine has never died on me

But feel I should say... "Yet!" ;)

6k miles due to a omp line, and as above when she runs again it will be on pre mix.

matt

65000 waterseals

The car went after 20k miles. (well, less than 200 miles of ownership)

The car was running 1300 secondary injectors (re-bored 850\'s).  One of them failed at high revs, resulting in the car running lean and the inevitable happening.  Pip told me that he had seen this a few times and now refuses to sell them.

Chris

Blow up under 800 miles from rebuild, at the front of hundreds of people watching at Alford sprint.
 it\'s cause by small grit while it\'s rebuilt or oil pump leaking???
That\'s Motorsport:chat
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/scot62/DSCF0144.jpg)
No Copper:2eek
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/scot62/DSCF0141.jpg)
Copper plugging the oil ways

died 27k into a Hurley rebuild - rebuild had been done several years prior to me buying the car. Apex seal broke and made a mess! Now done about 10k on RX Motors 1/2 Bridge rebuild and happy (although the bridge is being increased in size :) :) :) :) )

judging by this thread rx7 are very unreliable! if people are paying 3k plus for rebuilds and they blow up after few miles? why not just get a low mileage engine from a breaker instead? alot cheaper.  :evillaugh  this has made me very scared on buying a rx7, it probably blows up soon as i get it? im going to look at one with 77km on the clock no history or rebuild, owner says its fine, its based in manchester do you think it will be wise to go down to wgt with the car before purchusing it to get a compression test?

there are a few people who are saying the car died a few miles after getting it,  or that it had50,000 plus on it and hasnt been rebuilt,  but how can you be sure it hasnt been rebuilt in its past unles you have done the miles yourself, especially if its been imported.

I\'m still yet to be convinced of an FD engine doing more than 60k without a rebuild, in stock form.  The older ones seem to do a lot better,     anyone know of any RX8\'s that have worn out yet??

They aren\'t unreliable if built and treat and tuned properly.
The engine previous to the special one lasted 15000miles, and shattered an Apex seal on the dyno. This was a mechanical fault, where the rear rotor injested a HEAP of free air and detonated. She was still making 376atw @ 11psi.
Picture shows the 3mm apex seal with a 2inch slab missing!!

John

Ant,
My series 4 engine covered 89000miles(actually 139000km) when I decided to have it rebuilt. There was no need to have it rebuilt other than a precautionary measure.
Cheers,

John

I had a 13bturbo last about 2000klm\'s until it sucked a unifilter throught he T04. After that it still ran for a while but compression was down. My own stupid fault :(
 cheers, michael Oh and I would love to know what they actually expect from their engines also. If you go bug injectors, big single and about 1bar of boost then only drive the car on weekends (and cane the arse off of it) thne do you really think it will last 40,000miles??

Quote from: antnicukI\'m still yet to be convinced of an engine doing more than 60k without a rebuild, in stock form.

Previous owner of my car did 99,750 miles on completly stock car before it became hard to start. Reason for rebuild was low compression.

I also believe that if you reuse any parts in a rebuild than you can\'t expect to be pushing big mileage - just my opinion though.

Mr car had 76000 miles on it before the water jacket cracked and failed over a very cold winter :driving plus it probably wasn\'t looked after as well as it could have been by previous owners :(

sorry,  i should have made it a bit clearer, i was refering to FD\'s,  my elford had nearly 100k on it and was still going when the turbo II engine went in.

Yes mate - this is for the FD :)

my original FD engine went at 70,000 (water seal). It had been untouched up until that point.

6k after a rebuild by ??? and then a refit by Nemesis (who failed to uphold warantee before they went bust) - blocked injector and detonation.
Probably what killed the original engine at 60k.
Injectors weren\'t checked by refitters.
 
Take heed everybody, if your rx7 dies early then you\'ll need to find out what caused it.. I think I just found out what caused mine..

This thread is very scarey:( now anyone with the rebuild dvd\'s wana send me a copy pm me lads;) )

I have a K-Series engine in my Atom....It did a total of 37 hours....and then a £5k rebuild

There are so many advantages for having a rotary...although the fuel economy (I use economy in the loosest of words) 5mpg is a little crap.....it is so cheap to maintain.

The race engine Ive got now cost a 1/6 of the price the K-Series cost to build, and although it is a fantastic engine doesn\'t produce 400hp!

Still 650bhp per ton is quite good fun...think I will need to up the number of rotors to even start getting close to that in the current car.

Oh and on the point of Warantees...one of the main reasons for going to Carl is because he warrant\'s his engines.  I think that is worth a fortune...even though Carl doesn\'t charge the most...even if he did it would be worth it just for the back up!! :D

there are still a lot of people who have not posted that have definately had engines that didnt last very long

my first fd after 1500 miles built with new housings due my dikhead mate turning boost up above a bar on std twins std injectors std fuel pump and std ecu! full det with a smashed apex seal and side seal.

anybody got an answer as to why the original engine last alot more miles than rebuilds or is it because they spend along time standard? Then we get hold of them! and push them harder?

kinda puts an insight into why tuners rebuild warranty\'s arnt worth the paper they written on :2Rolleyes

Quote from: LRPanybody got an answer as to why the original engine last alot more miles than rebuilds or is it because they spend along time standard? Then we get hold of them! and push them harder?

The new engine has closer tolerances...ie not worn plates or worn rotors...all the side seals are correctly clearanced as well and they all are built with new bearings and ancillaires whcich are less likely to fail.

Quote from: antnicuksorry,  i should have made it a bit clearer, i was refering to FD\'s,  my elford had nearly 100k on it and was still going when the turbo II engine went in.

Just out of interest Tony, since you have owned examples of all gens, which engines have the longest life ?

I would be interested to see a graph of power output against engine expectancy for each engine version, with details of those that fell above or below the trend lines - might help people gauge what mods are good and which are likely to result in premature engine failure (over simplistic I know - as the car\'s purpose and how it\'s driven and how often also have a huge part to play).

12a engines are by far the longest lasting, imo,

As far as i\'m concerned, more boost + less life

Many turbo 2 engines and EGI engines last as long as 12a engines.

Also this thread is not saying that all rebuilds don\'t last on FD\'s,but some don\'t.

There should be no reason why an engine should not do some decent mileage in fairly stock form.
If you have a serious modded car then the engine should be built to take it. Otherwise what\'s the point?
Regards
Carl

Maybe there should be a thread on how many miles have you done since rebuild?
Also how long ago was it built.
Regards
Carl

and who built it:2Mad

My first Egi did 156,000miles before loosing compression.
ANother I had (still in the shed) has about 127,000miles on it but is showing signs of poor compression.
THe TII had done 87,000miles and was killed by the previous owner running it without replacing the failing water pump.

 The running in period has a lot to do with how long your engine will last - as will the type of journey you do with the car.  Many of these cars were used as GT\'s when new and hence did lots of miles (I think my Dads did about 20000 in its first year?) on a regular basis.  Long periods of running at fairly constant temperatures and loads casue less stress on an engine (any engine) than short run times where the block never really gets upto temperature.  So as the cars pass form daily use into occasional \'weekend toy\' territory things start to go wrong, mainly through lack of use which allows corrosion etc to get hold - I know of some cases (On one of my Egi\'s) where the car was being used about 4 times a year - this caused all sorts of unpleasantness as the butterflies got stuck in the UIM and wax pellet on the mechanical OMP gave up etc etc....
 
 Find and cure the cause of the failure before getting the engine rebuilt.  IMO an engine that gives up after a fwe thousand miles has a lot of othe problems under the skin...

Quote from: Ricco_04Yes mate - this is for the FD :)

Where does it say this for FD?

My FD engine hasnt died, but I voted for all 3 ! Had some other Rotaries.

Original engine failed around 40k.

Rebuild lasted 18k until it died doing 170mph at Brunters.

Next engine should last well :)

Quote from: MartinyWhere does it say this for FD?

My FD engine hasnt died, but I voted for all 3 ! Had some other Rotaries.

Antnicuk was saying this is for only stock FD\'s and thought I was giving the mileage for the TII :)

i brought my car with 67,000 miles with blown motor i think water seals,now going strong on v8 !!!

blasphemous words, how dare you use the word *8 on this forum!

I bought a car with a fresh rebuild off WGT. Never had any problems with the almost 3yrs of ownership. Do about 5k a year at weekends so just over 10 I would say (not very sure).

My 12a has done 106,000 miles. 1k of which weren\'t even on petrol :D I\'d love to have the FD on LPG and see how long it lasts with less detonation :D

I think the only other thing people don\'t think about is what is the quality of fuel like ?? Could alot of failures be due to buying naff fuel ??

Shaun

Mine died at 49,000 miles. Water seal failure. After chatting to carl he made a good point about imports being started from cold at the docks, moved a few meters then switched off. Fuel sitting in the combustion chamber soaks into the water seals causing premature failure.

Quote from: shaunwilI think the only other thing people don\'t think about is what is the quality of fuel like ?? Could alot of failures be due to buying naff fuel ??

The recent Tesco fiasco shows how important this can be.  Imagine running dodgy fuel in a tunes turbo car... asking for expensive bills.

Mine always gets V-Power (and Optimax before that) and preferably fron a service station that I know is busy.

Petrol does \'go off\' - it loses Octane rating over time so a sleepy station that only refills it\'s super unleaded every month might be as bad as putting normal petrol in the tank!

Quote from: iaintThe recent Tesco fiasco shows how important this can be.  Imagine running dodgy fuel in a tunes turbo car... asking for expensive bills.

Mine always gets V-Power (and Optimax before that) and preferably fron a service station that I know is busy.

Petrol does \'go off\' - it loses Octane rating over time so a sleepy station that only refills it\'s super unleaded every month might be as bad as putting normal petrol in the tank!

But if Mazda are building cars that can go pop through a dodgy batch of fuel imho they want there fekin arses kicked!simple as that!

Quote from: TravisBut if Mazda are building cars that can go pop through a dodgy batch of fuel imho they want there fekin arses kicked!simple as that!

Thats a but harsh, eh?

I would suggest you read up on Octane rating, and how it leads to detonation.

Quote from: TravisBut if Mazda are building cars that can go pop through a dodgy batch of fuel imho they want there fekin arses kicked!simple as that!

A little understanding is a dangerous thing :)

Most of the cars over here are Jap imports - designed for higher octane fuel then the UK market has had available until recently.  Equally, most are tuned to some degree and mapped for 98+ Octane fuel.  The more mods you have the more critical good fuel is.

As with the Tesco fuel debacle killing a number of new car from various manufacturers so our 14+ year old cars are sometimes going to be at risk from dodgy fuel.

Of course this is all speculation - it might be a cause of a few of the engine failures or it might not.

Quote from: iaintAs with the Tesco fuel debacle killing a number of new car from various manufacturers so our 14+ year old cars are sometimes going to be at risk from dodgy fuel.

Actally, the fuel thing at tesco\'s only killed the lamda sensors due to the excess of silicone in the fuel. Big bills, yes, but not as big as a dead engine.

I don\'t think it actually affected the engine internals at all. Just killed off everyones lambda sensors very, very quickly.

A little understanding huh!?!on your part mate!!like i said mazda need there arse kicked!!you show me 1 supra or skyline or honda or or or or or or etc etc etc etc that has blown an engine due to a dodgy batch of petrol?????!!!!!!?????IMO if a car can blow an engine because of a dodgy batch of fuel then the person who built made designed the car want there fekin arses kicked...this seems to be a RX7 problem,in any other car you might see some poor performance,but i very much doubt you will be in need of a rebuild....But again its my opinion...so before the v power and ultimate...when mazda brought these rx7s there must have been a lot of rebuilds going on???if you buy a car from japan and get it set up in this country on the fuel of your choice THEN IT SHOULDNT FEKIN BLOW!!!!!IF THE FUEL DROPS AND OCTAIN LEVEL OR 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote from: Travisso before the v power and ultimate...when mazda brought these rx7s there must have been a lot of rebuilds going on???

Mazda sold UK spec RX-7s here with ECUs developed for the UK market.  They didn\'t sell J-Spec ECU\'d cars here (although a few of the dealerships have imported RDs from Japan.

It\'d certainly be interesting to know how UK spec FDs compare to imported models in terms of reliability and causes of problems.


Also you seem to be jumping up and down comparing standard vs modified - an almost impossible thing to do with any meaning whatsoever.  It seems that standard cars expire from age related issues (water seals or failed ancillary components).  Modded cars seem to die from either tip failure or failed ancillaries rahter than water seal failure.

As for Supras/Skylines never failing - you are kidding aren\'t you?

I see what your saying and I agree to an extent.  There are 2 things to bear in mind in my opinion.

Quite a few people have remappable ECU\'s rather than the standard equipment.  We get mapped on what fuel we have in the tank and there is not much tolerence below this because people want to see a nice figure when it\'s all mapped so the tolerence levels are not as great as stock.

The factory cars need leeway for fuel issues because they all at some point had a warranty to cover.  The cars for the UK where mapped for 95 ron fuel so they could use this or above.  In reality there was so much more tolerence on the stock perameters that the fuel could have stayed in the tank for months and months before it ever became a problem.

The same for the jap imports but in Jap land they have a much better Octane than we do - they have 101Ron(ish) and the best we have has only recently been 99 Ron.  You can see that you are already near the edge of the tolerence level here and only need a bad batch to go over the the edge and lead to det.

Im too slow! :rollin

Quote from: iaintAs for Supras/Skylines never failing - you are kidding aren\'t you?

No sorry i have just sold a supra after 4 years and been around supras for years big singles etc and never seen a engine blow due to anything like this..in fact i can count on 1 hand how many engines iv heard of blowing full stop,skylines yes but not because of fuel...mostly because of oil pumps,dont get me wrong i love the rex and have just sold my single,but its a crazy thing when a bad batch of fuel can cost you a 4 grand rebuild...id like to see if anyone has a standard rex that has blown due to fuel,how can you prove this?or is it down to the tuner who maps it?or the tuner who builds it?also never heard of a engine going bang on anything other than a rex due to alarm/immob wiring :2Rolleyes...and theres the great oil debate:2Rolleyes some tuners wont warranty an engine if mineral isnt used,and some say they wouldnt use anything but fully synthetic:2Rolleyes the list just goes on and on;)

Quote from: TravisNo sorry i have just sold a supra after 4 years and been around supras for years big singles etc and never seen a engine blow due to anything like this..in fact i can count on 1 hand how many engines iv heard of blowing full stop,skylines yes but not because of fuel...mostly because of oil pumps,dont get me wrong i love the rex and have just sold my single,but its a crazy thing when a bad batch of fuel can cost you a 4 grand rebuild...id like to see if anyone has a standard rex that has blown due to fuel,how can you prove this?or is it down to the tuner who maps it?or the tuner who builds it?also never heard of a engine going bang on anything other than a rex due to alarm/immob wiring :2Rolleyes...and theres the great oil debate:2Rolleyes some tuners wont warranty an engine if mineral isnt used,and some say they wouldnt use anything but fully synthetic:2Rolleyes the list just goes on and on;)

If you go back to my post and re-read it with a keen eye you\'ll spot that

Quote from: IaintOf course this is all speculation - it might be a cause of a few of the engine failures or it might not.

It\'s not a case of engines blowing from bad fuel BUT it is a potential risk and well worth avoiding.

It\'s very very difficult to actually pin down the reason for an engine death 100% - even if the actual failure (e.g. dead rotor tip) is obvious the cause isn\'t - could be oil starvation (could be pump, blocked line, wrong type), could be pre-det, could be mapping, could be plugs..!

All very complicated and confused!

As for the mapping/alarm/oil debates - they\'re probably eternal and equally pointless :)

Quote from: TravisNo sorry i have just sold a supra after 4 years and been around supras for years big singles etc and never seen a engine blow due to anything like this..in fact i can count on 1 hand how many engines iv heard of blowing full stop,skylines yes but not because of fuel...mostly because of oil pumps

You also have to remember the complexity of the Supra/Skyline block (in terms of moving parts) means that it is less likely that whole block will go, (you don\'t hear about many pistons going through the block unless VERY high boost is involved) however a full rebuild of a Supra or Skybus block is A LOT more expensive.

Also, the bad fuel issue leads to detonation (which will damage ANY engine) just that the rotary is more delicate.

Let\'s compare like with like shall we? A high tuned IMPORT RX7 (still using stock Mazda apex seals) pushing 450bhp atw (so double the stock level) versus a 500 atw IMPORT Supra with stock pistons, cams, valves (stock Supras were genuinly running 290-310bhp) now lets put crap petrol (say 95 RON) in them run them at 9000 rpm and see which goes first eh? Oh sorry I forgot to mention, like with like means same rev limits too ;)

Quote from: sadgothYou also have to remember the complexity of the Supra/Skyline block (in terms of moving parts) means that it is less likely that whole block will go, (you don\'t hear about many pistons going through the block unless VERY high boost is involved) however a full rebuild of a Supra or Skybus block is A LOT more expensive.

Also, the bad fuel issue leads to detonation (which will damage ANY engine) just that the rotary is more delicate.

Let\'s compare like with like shall we? A high tuned IMPORT RX7 (still using stock Mazda apex seals) pushing 450bhp atw (so double the stock level) versus a 500 atw IMPORT Supra with stock pistons, cams, valves (stock Supras were genuinly running 290-310bhp) now lets put crap petrol (say 95 RON) in them run them at 9000 rpm and see which goes first eh? Oh sorry I forgot to mention, like with like means same rev limits too ;)

sorry mate but theres people who have had 2 rebuilds plus on there rex,dont quite understand your point with taken rev limits to 9000rpm,in 99.9%of cases a rex engine will blow before a supra thats a fact!!...skylines yea fair enough all i was doing was proving a point by saying,its not common for a skyline engine to blow though something simple as filling up at a petrol station.And yes supra engine more expensive to rebuild BUT THEY NEVER FEKIN DO NEED REBUILT!!!!!!thats my point,Iaint is right totally!!theres too many things to consider or a mixture of things before just blaming fuel.

ok, we understand that the supra engine is stronger. But remember the rotary is a more fragile engine that will show excellent results from very little money. You can\'t PP a supra engine at home :D
Plus a 3rd gen rx7 weighs almost 500kg less and a similar powered supra doesn\'t stand a chance on the 1/4 mile with similar power.

I wasn\'t just blaming fuel in the first post, but it hadn\'t been mentioned and felt that it was a factor in the mix, not the only issue.

Sorry if this thread has gone sideways.

Half of the reason that engines go is because of all the stuff that supports them. You could quite easily rebuild the engine and just not bother checking the injectors, the fuel pump, the state of the radiator, the condition of the oil coolers, the condition of the electronics and sensors, the condition of all the other piping and supporting parts. Plus for a engine with so few moving parts the 13b usually has alot of re-usable parts.

Shaun

Quote from: shaunwilok, we understand that the supra engine is stronger. But remember the rotary is a more fragile engine that will show excellent results from very little money. You can\'t PP a supra engine at home :D
Plus a 3rd gen rx7 weighs almost 500kg less and a similar powered supra doesn\'t stand a chance on the 1/4 mile with similar power.

I wasn\'t just blaming fuel in the first post, but it hadn\'t been mentioned and felt that it was a factor in the mix, not the only issue.

Sorry if this thread has gone sideways.

Half of the reason that engines go is because of all the stuff that supports them. You could quite easily rebuild the engine and just not bother checking the injectors, the fuel pump, the state of the radiator, the condition of the oil coolers, the condition of the electronics and sensors, the condition of all the other piping and supporting parts. Plus for a engine with so few moving parts the 13b usually has alot of re-usable parts.

Shaun

Yea dude agreed:yes

Not to mention the ron number on the pump is min it should be ie v-power is 99 min so they allow for it sitting for a while. You are very unlikely to get dodgy fuel i doubt we will see another tesco type problem in our lives.
I think part of the problem is mazdas ecu diagnostics isn\'t that good. I got no engine check light for a faulty water temp sensor which if the light had came on would have saved my engine.
You can\'t really compare skyline and supra to rx7s they nothing alike, lets face it an rx7 is a super car, a supra is a heavy super car want to be, and a skyline is an over powered box.

Wow, you shook the dust off this thread didn\'t you!

 Did your engine blow and you done a search here or did a Supra/Skyline give you another pasting and you decided to blow off some steam here....
 :Thumbs-up

Quote from: Travissorry mate but theres people who have had 2 rebuilds plus on there rex,dont quite understand your point with taken rev limits to 9000rpm,in 99.9%of cases a rex engine will blow before a supra thats a fact!!.

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Price-c5715-1993-RX-7.html

http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicles/new/reviews/1998/solo9807.html


Those two links show the prices of the rx7(93) and the supra(98) as $22k(approx) and $40k respectively

allowing for inflation over 5 years, you could get an rx7 and 2 rebuilds for the price of a supra (disregarding big services) . If you consider the rebuilds as a 60-70k miles service that gets you around 180-210kmiles on one of the worlds best handling and looking cars.


to quote something i read on rx7 club

" Powerful   Cheap   Reliable....  you may only have two"


i rest my case :D

Hi All

Well, my engine (the car is a RB Bathurst jap import) went bust after cavering around 27 K miles after a re-build( previvous owner had it done by RX Motors under a warrenty). I must add that, the car was almost stock with a HKS Supper Dragger exhaust system fitted.  The car never gave me any major trouble and the engine weas very strong....

then....

I have put in Apexi PFC, de cat, HKS Racing Suction Kit, air pump was removed and after market pulleys fitted.  Car was mapped for the above mods but unfortunately after the inspection of the engine by Powergains Motor Sport, they have  discovered that one of the flaps would not open up due to cracked housing thus creating over boost = engine pop.  (I am not a mechanic so excuse the terminology chaps)

Now I have done around 900 miles on the new engine (full rebuild with racing seals) and I intend to fit maybe a boost controller to avoid the boost creep.  I know that people say that the Apexi can stop the boost creep but I rather BE SAFE THE SORRY.

I also think that a lot of engines are not fully re-build and possible failing too soon due to partially worn parts.

Kerim at Power Gains Motor Sport warranties his work for 1 year bur he insists on a full re-build.

It is a real shame that no one can design or improve the rotary engine making it more durable and more suited to withstand detonation.

After the engine going pop tbh I am now frightened to step on the car in case it happens again….I have budgeted for a re-build but since I have had the re-build now ‘the budget’ does not allow for the next one soon.  People on here re-build the engines after only less then 10k according to the poll, that is terrible rally, as I said above, I wish someone would improve the design of the engine…..wishful thinking…

...I still refuse to drive anything else!!!

Regards,
Michaelb

Boost creep can\'t be solved with a boost controller.

Quote from: TimmyBoost creep can\'t be solved with a boost controller.

OK, so if the car is overboosting then what is that called?  How can we protect our engines from boost creep ( on a twin turbo set up) and what is the cause of that?

Regards,
Michaelb

Boost creep is because you can get enough exhaust to bypass the turbo via the wastegate, you can port it to make it bigger.
On the other hand you maybe mixed up with a boost spike which and solved with a boost controller, this is caused by the wastegate not opening soon enough.

Quote from: TimmyBoost creep is because you can get enough exhaust to bypass the turbo via the wastegate, you can port it to make it bigger.
On the other hand you maybe mixed up with a boost spike which and solved with a boost controller, this is caused by the wastegate not opening soon enough.

Hi

OK, thanks for that

Kerim said that the wastegate was not opening much (one of the flaps) so he fixed that by changing the cracked housing and also he has ported the exhaust port to allow better exhaust pass…

I guess I had a boost spike which damaged my engine…

Regards,
Michaelb

We at Hayward Rotary warranty engines for 2 years / 24000 miles,and we also warranty for detonation.
Regards
Carl

well my car is on its third engine twice rebuilt by same co and then entrusted to hayward rotary /carl
nearly have running in miles done then will have it mapped by carl for 1bar
mine had all the upgrades in place both times
uprated fuelling/uprated ecu/mapped and still went pop
if it ever pops again i will either
1/SET FIRE TO THE BLOODY THING
2/PUT A STONKING LS1 V8 IN IT
i am paranoid about going on boost in the bloody thing..mine couldnt have had any further upgrades
it had the pump/injectors/ecu remap everything
fingers crossed third time lucky

Quote from: rx7veilside;496877well my car is on its third engine twice rebuilt by same co and then entrusted to hayward rotary /carl
nearly have running in miles done then will have it mapped by carl for 1bar
mine had all the upgrades in place both times
uprated fuelling/uprated ecu/mapped and still went pop
if it ever pops again i will either
1/SET FIRE TO THE BLOODY THING
2/PUT A STONKING LS1 V8 IN IT
i am paranoid about going on boost in the bloody thing..mine couldnt have had any further upgrades
it had the pump/injectors/ecu remap everything
fingers crossed third time lucky

Hi
Same here mate, had mine re-build ( full re-build ) by Powergains Motor Sport ( wicked job) 1003 miles ago ( 2 months ago ) and now I am also paranoid to use the boost...

It looked like all was fine I had no warning and the engine went bust, incidentally I have been told that you really need a full re-build and more to be sure that the engine will last as often people re-build what went bust and still keep the second hand bits which defo will go sooner the new..

Regards,
Michaelb

Quote from: michaelb;496886Hi
Same here mate, had mine re-build ( full re-build ) by Powergains Motor Sport ( wicked job) 1003 miles ago ( 2 months ago ) and now I am also paranoid to use the boost...

It looked like all was fine I had no warning and the engine went bust, incidentally I have been told that you really need a full re-build and more to be sure that the engine will last as often people re-build what went bust and still keep the second hand bits which defo will go sooner the new..

Regards,
Michaelb

When you fitted the power fc,you could have set the boost cut,then it wouldn\'t have overboosted.I hope you have it set now!

Quote from: Timrxmotors;496919When you fitted the power fc,you could have set the boost cut,then it wouldn\'t have overboosted.I hope you have it set now!

that sounds like a great idea, is this something I can set my self?  If so is it OK to increase the boost by 5% or shoud I stick with stock boost?

Regards,
Michaelb

Quote from: michaelb;496920that sounds like a great idea, is this something I can set my self?  If so is it OK to increase the boost by 5% or shoud I stick with stock boost?

Regards,
Michaelb

no mate get it mapped or it will blow you cant just wind the boost up on a rex its just not worth the risk, but you can with a supra lol

Quote from: jurgen;496974no mate get it mapped or it will blow you cant just wind the boost up on a rex its just not worth the risk, but you can with a supra lol

Hi

What about setting the boost cut my self at the stock level?  Is it possible to do that on my own?  It should be, right?

Regards,
Michaelb

if you set the boost to .7 bar,as stock,then set the boost cut it will cut at .95 bar.

if you have an apexi, just get it mapped. It will run better, quicker and more MPG.  Every engine is different, especially after a rebuild.  Mapping it will tune it for your specific engine.

Bumping this up

lol, voted under 10k.
non conclusive reason but mix of builder and used parts (within tolerances though)
shaft bearings welded itself onto the shaft.

Thread necromancy! :0

I concur master Williams, It is very unholy what\'s been done here!

But I\'ll vote for the he\'ll of it :p

I blew four 13bs in 3 to 4 months and two 20bs in 4 months!! Please do not ask me for the reasons because my answer will coerce someone to press the report button :D :D :D :D
 
Mir

Quote from: Mir;795037I blew four 13bs in 3 to 4 months and two 20bs in 4 months!! Please do not ask me for the reasons because my answer will coerce someone to press the report button :D :D :D :D
 
Mir

Holy crap.!!!! Maybe you should consider walking places.

Even flying would be cheaper!